Headspace Question...How Hard to "Fix"?

[USMC0802]

I am at the point of taking the plunge on a 1918 BAR, and traveled to look at one in person, check in hand, this weekend. Unfortunately, when I checked headspace, it closed on "no-go" and "field" gauges as if they weren't even there. As such, I decided to hold off for the time being.

 

Barrel date and condition seems to indicate barrel most likely original to the receiver, and the bolt is the same story...barrel, receiver, and bolt are Brit-proofed and WRA. I'm new to the BAR world, but understand from Mr. Ballou's book that correcting headspace is primarily a game of swapping bolts/barrels until it "works". Given that I am not in an armory full of parts, I have concerns about how difficult and expensive "fixing" this rifle might be...

 

Additionally, given the condition of the finish and apparent originality of the rifle, if a barrel replacement is needed, I'll have to find a WRA barrel of the correct date.

 

1) How big an undertaking would a project like this typically be?

 

2) What kind of availability should I expect on original finish WRA barrels from late 1918, and WRA bolts? I just got back from the trip and haven't done much parts searching yet.

 

I did not see any damage or excessive wear to the locking recess in the receiver.

[jim c 351]

USMC,

If you don't have Ballou's book you need to buy it.

In said book it shows how the military dovetailed a shim into the rear of the bolt locking devise.

A call to Ohio Ordnance Works will reveal whether or not they can make such a modification.
Jim C

[emmagee1917]

Another option is for the owner and you to go to a SAR show or big milt. style show with his striped rec./barrel and your gauges and try bolts there to see if you can find one that'll work . I would think the owner would want to have a functioning and safe firearm to sell .

Chris

[AlexanderA]

In checking headspace, be sure to do it with the action spring removed. Use only light hand pressure to see if the bolt encounters resistance while closing on a "no go" gauge. That's what you're looking for -- felt resistance.

 

Headspace is controlled by the bolt lock bearing against the receiver shoulder. If the headspace is too tight (as, for example, in fitting a new barrel), it is adjusted by grinding the rear bearing surface of the bolt lock. If it's too loose, the usual remedy is to fit a longer bolt lock, although conceivably it could be lengthened by welding. Newer bolt locks have a dovetailed insert on that surface, that could be replaced without replacing the whole bolt lock.

[Rebel Rifle Ordnance LLC]

USMC, I've got three BAR's. One had excessive headspace and one had insufficient. I fixed them both. You can find exactly how to check the headspace here: http://www.forgottenweapons.com/wp-content/uploads/BAR/1918a2%20bar%20manual.pdf It's on page 11 via the pdf counter or page 18 if you use the page numbers in the manual.

 

The key to getting the headspace correct is determined by several factors. I found the answer in Ballou's book, "Rock and a Hard Place." Basically speaking, you need to buy some bolts and / or links until you get the combination right. This is how it was done by the US armorers. Spec's between the WWI barrels and the WWII barrels are all over the place. However, I can tell you that a BAR will run with excessive head space it will just be hard on the brass. BAR's were made to run, in spite of headspace. I'm not inferring that it isn't dangerous or possibly damaging to the gun. My first BAR, I shot it several hundred rounds before I realized that the barrel was loose! The BAR with insufficient headspace wouldn't even lock up and some how the previous owner stated it ran fine with factory ammo just not reloaded. Reloaded obviously will have a tighter headspace unless you run your brass two or three times in the resizing die.

 

Anyway, I fixed the excessive headspace by finding a bolt that had a greater length than what was currently in my gun. WWII BAR Man was instrumental in helping me do this by sending me about a dozen different bolts until I found the right one: http://www.wwiibarman.com/search?type=product&q=bolt

 

I fixed the insufficient headspace on my Colt BAR by filing down the back of the bolt locking link (the thing that pivots and is attached to the bolt).

 

It took me a lot of research on this topic and there are other factors that affect head space but generally speaking it's the size of the bolt and bolt lock. Those are held together with a very tight pivot pin. If you decide to take them apart, it's possible with a punch but you must push it the correct way or you will never get it out! Don't ask me how I know that. So to answer your question, I wouldn't hesitate to purchase a BAR with excessive headspace as it can be fixed. Another thing to check is to see how worn out the barrel is by gauging it. I had an original WWI barrel that was worn out. That will be difficult to get headspaced correctly. Changing barrels out is a doable but you have to either make or find the tools to do it. It's taken off with either a barrel vice block or a receiver block. WWII Bar Man has a receiver block tool. Also, Chuck Malone replaced my barrels so he can do it as well. Good luck if you take on the project.

Edited July 30, 2016 by Rebel Rifle Ordnance LLC

[USMC0802]

Thanks very much for an excellent and comprehensive reply Rebel!