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WTB: Ithaca M3A1 Bolt Assembly (Springs, Rods, Bolt, etc)


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The ones in my Ithaca are fairly worn from years of use. The rest of the gun is great, but I'd love to get some nice condition ones or NOS if possible? Thanks for any future offers!

 

8-4-2018 - I found a complete guide rod and plate set, so I am good to go with that. i also got the guide rod retaining clips. I still need a good condition complete M3A1 bolt, and recoil springs.

 

8-5-2018 - Ok, I have now bought a new condition complete bolt from member Dingo, and have the guide rods, plates, and clips from Numrich. Last parts that I need are the drive springs. Thanks!

 

9-25-2018 - Took forever, but I found 10 new Guide Lamp drive springs. 8 of them were even still in the original Guide Lamp red wrapper. Finally?

 

Turns out I do need one more part though. The front retaining plate. Anyone???

 

Thank you!

Mike

Edited by michaelkih
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You may have to buy parts separately from different sources. Numrich has some parts, i.e. guide rod assembly with attached plate, and retaining clips. I struggled to find driving springs last year, but finally did from Bill Ricca Surplus Sales and Medea. Bolts pop up from time to time.

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You may have to buy parts separately from different sources. Numrich has some parts, i.e. guide rod assembly with attached plate, and retaining clips. I struggled to find driving springs last year, but finally did from Bill Ricca Surplus Sales and Medea. Bolts pop up from time to time.

Thank you!

 

Would mind helping me out? They have two different ones it looks like, and when you click on the item, both say M3 and M3A1. Is there a specific one that I should buy for my Ithaca M3A1? Want to make sure I buy the right one. Thanks.

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Well, hopefully someone more knowledgable than I will chime in. But if my memory is correct, here is what I believe is the difference: The rear plate that the guide rods are attached to is smaller in the later (M3A1) assembly. When they redesigned the gun, eliminating the cocking handle, they obviously redesigned the bolt with the finger hole for cocking. They also cut full length grooves in the bolt so the bolt/guide rod assemble could be removed without removing the trigger guard and ejector housing assembly. In order to be able to slide the bolt/guide rod assembly out of the tube, with the ejector still in place, the rear plate has to be smaller.

 

But also, if I remember correctly, you can use a larger M3 style rear plate in an M3A1. But then, when disassembling it, you have to remove the trigger guard and ejector housing, in order to slide the bolt/guide rod assembly out of the tube (like an M3.) In fact, some like the bigger plate better, for the reason that the force on the rear wall of the receiver is spread over a larger area.

 

Hope that helps. Moreover, I hope it is correct.

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Well, hopefully someone more knowledgable than I will chime in. But if my memory is correct, here is what I believe is the difference: The rear plate that the guide rods are attached to is smaller in the later (M3A1) assembly. When they redesigned the gun, eliminating the cocking handle, they obviously redesigned the bolt with the finger hole for cocking. They also cut full length grooves in the bolt so the bolt/guide rod assemble could be removed without removing the trigger guard and ejector housing assembly. In order to be able to slide the bolt/guide rod assembly out of the tube, with the ejector still in place, the rear plate has to be smaller.

 

But also, if I remember correctly, you can use a larger M3 style rear plate in an M3A1. But then, when disassembling it, you have to remove the trigger guard and ejector housing, in order to slide the bolt/guide rod assembly out of the tube (like an M3.) In fact, some like the bigger plate better, for the reason that the force on the rear wall of the receiver is spread over a larger area.

 

Hope that helps. Moreover, I hope it is correct.

Ok, I thought the smaller plate was in the M3A1. Thanks for clarifying that for me. I never thought about the larger plate being better on the receiver. I wonder if I could just use the larger M3 plate, but cut a notch in it on the bottom, or cut the bottom off like the M3A1 plate so it's a "hybrid" so I can slide it over the ejector like the bolt does. Thoughts?

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Yes you can put an M3 plate into an M3A1. You either take it all apart to remove the bolt assmebly or you have to have a slot cut in it. One of my M3A1s had someone cut the slot in it for ease of disassembly
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