I was going to replace my firing pin but unsure about taking Maxim lock apart? I have an old youtube video on how to take apart a Russian lock but not sure if it is the same. The first pin I tried to remove is not like on the Russian lock, I tapped on it but I do not want to beat on it until I am sure about what I am doing. See pic for the pin I am trying to remove. The other pins on the lock look like split pins with bushings but this one may not be, it is recessed and I do not know if it is meant to be removed. I would thank you for your advice.
WTK How to take apart Maxim Lock?
Posted 16 May 2017 - 03:02 PM
To remove the firing pin the lock must be partially disassembled.
First, there is no removable pin thorugh the hole into which you have inserted the punch. The MG08 stirrups are riveted together onto the body and are not removable from the body. Only reason to remove the stirrup is if it is damaged enough so it must be replaced or too damaged to repair while still on the body.
To disassemble: remove the split pin and collet at the top end of the lock by the sear that protrudes from the body. Tap the split pin end until it frees up and tap it out of the collet. Then push out the collet and remove the small" cap" that the collet went through. This will release the spring, but leave it for the moment. The two lifting levers are held in place by the cap and when the cap is removed the lifting levers will come off their studs. They are left and right and make note of how they are retained by the cap.
There are two split pin/collet pivots through the lock body. To remove the sear and the tumbler, tap out the split pins and then tap out the collets. The collets are a tight fit. When both are out, the sear and the tumbler can be removed. Once the sear is out, the spring can be removed.
With the above parts removed, the firing pin can be slid out of the back of the lock body by inserting a tool into the body and into the center cavity of the fring pin. It will move with resistance since the auto sear is pushing up from the bottom.
No further disassembly is required.
Reassembly is not exactly the reverse of the above. I'll explain the process when you have explained why you need to replace the firing pin. There are other issues that might appear to suggest replacement of the firing pin, but doing that will not solve the problem.....
Posted 16 May 2017 - 03:58 PM
Thanks Bob, I was hoping you would weigh in on this. I wanted to try a different firing pin because of light strikes with the Yugo ammo I used. It did work on Romanian ammo but not Yugo ammo(hard primers probably). My other lock worked on both types of ammo. Looking at the firing pins the one in the middle is not as long, see pic. I tried to mic it(hard to do) and I get .078, .052, and .089. The .089 is my like new lock, very tight with the longest firing pin. Since I have spare locks I wanted to take apart the one that does not work, I enjoy the pure mechanics of these guns, I long as I am not doing any permanent damage. I see now that the Russian lock is really different then 08/15 lock. I will print out your directions and try again. I searched the internet and looked in the book, "The Devils Paintbrush" but do not understand what pin is what, sear pin vs lower extractor stop pin, vs cartridge detent spring pin. Thanks for your help, your my hero. Happy Trails. Buck
Posted 16 May 2017 - 05:00 PM
From what you say, the issue does not appear to me to be the firing pin, but your firing pin spring is getting weak. The extractor holds the cartridge base closely to or in contact with the face of the extractor so firing pins can actually vary considerably in length and still ignite the primers. Since the cartridge is gripped by the extractor, it cannot move forward, even if the chamber headspace is too long.
The 1910 Russian Maxim lock springs have greater compressive strength than the German springs and are far more durable, holding their power.
If you acquire a 1910 firing pin and spring, I'll tell you how to install it. It will take care of any weak firing pin issues for any and all ammo, and if there are still problems then you at least have eliminated the spring as an issue.
Posted 16 May 2017 - 05:01 PM
Ok, after reading your directions and finding a line drawing in "The Devils Paintbrush" and adding text to it this is where I am at, see pic. Next I will need a firing pin? I have a Russian firing pin but I know it has to be modified. Bob do you have any firing pins or know where I could find them. Thanks again.
Edited by jamesbucklin, 16 May 2017 - 05:03 PM.
Posted 16 May 2017 - 05:19 PM
That was easy, I went to look for my firing pin and right next to it was a spring? I think it came from a Russian Gunners Kit I bought years ago. Not sure if this will work or not? See Pic. Does it matter which way the pin and collet goes in the lock? One of my locks is opposite of the other two?
Edited by jamesbucklin, 16 May 2017 - 05:23 PM.
Posted 16 May 2017 - 09:07 PM
Ok, will do. I have been trying out my different parts in preparation for a shoot in Wyoming. My spare feed block has a loose spring. It does not contact the feed block like my other one. See pic. Can I just pull or push it out and rebend it?