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Issues with new M1A1


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I've taken possession of a Savage M1A1, refinished and non-matching. Fine. Took it to the range and had the following issues:

 

1) stuck selectors; first I couldn't get it into semi-auto but after firing a mag in FA (fun!) I was able to; after finishing the mag, I put it on Safety and couldn't get it out again. The range armorer fixed it by partially disassembling.

 

2) while fixing #1 we noted the bolt didn't have a fixed firing pin.

 

I've left it with the armorer to check out and make fully functional. I have an extra NOS M1A1 bolt and barrel, obtained from members on this forum.

 

I have 3 days to decide if I want to keep it. What would you do? Return? Ask for a credit?

 

 

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Gary,

Did you attempt to move selector to semi with bolt closed? A no/no.

I wouldn't be in any big hurry to get a refund.

A knowledgeable Thompson person could disassemble the trigger group and pinpoint problem parts in minutes.

You should have no trouble finding someone to trade an M1A1 bolt for your M1 bolt. Many Thompson shooters prefer the M1 bolt for safety reasons.

Lastly,--- An "armorer" is not necessarily a knowledgeable Thompson person.

Good luck.

Jim C

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Does the selector function between SA and FA with the trigger frame off the receiver? Trigger frame parts are usually not hard to get and relatively easy to swap (not that you should have to spend more money on it).

 

Andrew

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There's probably nothing wrong with the gun.

 

You get a slower rate of fire with an M1 bolt. That may be no small consideration considering what ammo costs.

 

Right, manipulate pivot and safety with the bolt to the rear only.

 

An M1A1 bolt with fixed firing pin is no less safe than the M1 bolt with separate hammer and firing pin. This was proven when the M1A1 bolt was exhaustively tested prior to adoption. The firing pin protrusion cannot strike the primer unless the ejector has snapped over the cartridge rim. This can't happen with the cartridge out of battery on the ramp leading to the chamber.

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If the safety will not turn it could be that the angled part of the leg

on the pivot plate is too sharp and sticking in the round recesses for

It on the shaft of the safety. The fix would be to take the trigger frame

off the gun and rotate the safety back and forth a bunch of times to see

if it gets better.

The other possibility is that the sear is lifting up just a little bit too

high and interfering with rotation of the safety, or, the sear is too low

and blocking the rotation of the safety. To check this take the

frame off the gun and try to rotate the safety. If it won't rotate push the

sear down just a little bit and see if the safety does not now freely rotate.

If it does you need to replace the sear with one that fits/works properly

with the safety. If the sear is blocking the safety because it is too low

you need to grind a little off the front bottom of the safety where it hits

against the floor of the trigger frame. This will let the rear of the sear lift

a little higher and clear the safety. Of try a different sear.

The selector or rocker pivot should turn freely as it has flats to

engage the short flat leg of the pivot plate. As mentioned you only rotate

the selector with the gun cocked. But you also want to check that the

top of the rocker does not scrape or bind against the slot for it in the

bolt body. If so you may have to file a little off the top of the rocker.

In my opinion these problems are easily solved - assuming this is an

original G.I. Gun and not some type of rewat or reweld - and you should

not let them deter you from getting the gun if you think the price is right.

 

Bob

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Thanks for the info, gents. I think Reconbob's explanation is on target (ha, punny).

 

The armorer at my range is also a collector of vintage weapons and he was on the path the Reconbob laid out, regarding to the Safety issue. This semi-auto issue is on me as a newbie.

 

It did fire very nicely... was surprised how controllable it was after hearing some stories.

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I would keep it. While it is in prison, get a new housing, rebuild the old one and have a spare.

Get the AGI video on Thompson's and you can do it yourself.

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If the safety will not turn it could be that the angled part of the leg

on the pivot plate is too sharp and sticking in the round recesses for

It on the shaft of the safety. The fix would be to take the trigger frame

off the gun and rotate the safety back and forth a bunch of times to see

if it gets better.

 

 

Reconbob, this is what the problem turned out to be. He polished the respective areas and now it's working a charm.

 

Thanks.

 

-Gary

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Like with my m1918 BAR, the fore-stock is loose on this M1A1. We took it off and it's the mount that is loose. We couldn't even figure out how the mount is secured. Any clues on if this mount can be made more sturdy or if this the way it is.

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Like with my m1918 BAR, the fore-stock is loose on this M1A1. We took it off and it's the mount that is loose. We couldn't even figure out how the mount is secured. Any clues on if this mount can be made more sturdy or if this the way it is.

The grip mount is held in by the barrel. There are lots of schematics available for the Thompson on the internet. Have you purchased any of the several reference books available on the Thompson? A qualified armorer should be able to figure out how it is held in. The tab behind the barrel may be broken if the mount is loose, which means that the grip mount should be replaced. Proper tools are needed for barrel removal, though. Do a search on the Internet and you'll find something.

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The only correct way to fix this is to remove the barrel and replace the grip mount, preferably with an early milled mount.

 

As previously stated, barrel removal and re-installation has to be done by someone with the knowledge and the correct tools. Your average gun shop will have neither. Doing it incorrectly can damage the barrel or worse - crack the receiver nose.

Edited by 1921A
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Follow the advice by long time Thompson enthusiasts gijive and 1921A. Have the grip mount replaced with someone who has safely removed and replaced barrels many times. reconbob and PK come immediately to mind - opposite ends of the country so take you pick. No peening on a 20K plus machine gun! GI milled grip mounts are sometimes difficult to find. I believe PK manufactures this part. Don't take a chance with removing the barrel with someone without the proper tools and experience.

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Here are a couple of schematics. Never mind that it is a 1921 Model, the barrel and grip mount principle and installation are the same on the M1/M1A1 Series.

 

Thompson Schematic-1.jpg Thompson Schematic-2.jpg tinsign-thompson-big.jpg

 

An investment in a few Thompson books will go a long way to prevent a costly mistake trying to repair a gun you haven't really thoroughly studied.

 

 

Edited by gijive
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I think just about every (which isn't a whole lot) M1 receiver nose I've seen has had the 4 marks where the grip Mount bar was staked on as a way to keep it from wiggling too much. Not sure if this was done at the Savage factory level or not.

 

IMG_20190611_061227.jpg

 

I have even seen some grip mounts that the back section that goes into the receiver was slightly bent to keep movement to a minimum. Barrel bands could also be mentioned.

 

That being said, I would definitely follow the advice of those above and switch to a "bent" 1928/milled type which would fix the problem.

 

Andrew

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http://waffenmeisters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=71_80&product_id=254

 

I just bought one of these when the retaining tab that goes under the rear edge of the barrel broke off on my M1.

It's not original and not marked with a manufacturer's code but my original wasn't marked either

 

IT TAKES SPECIAL TOOLS TO PULL THE BARREL and replace the mounting bar. Do not try to mickey Mouse it, you can ruin the gun

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Follow the advice by long time Thompson enthusiasts gijive and 1921A. Have the grip mount replaced with someone who has safely removed and replaced barrels many times. reconbob and PK come immediately to mind - opposite ends of the country so take you pick. No peening on a 20K plus machine gun! GI milled grip mounts are sometimes difficult to find. I believe PK manufactures this part. Don't take a chance with removing the barrel with someone without the proper tools and experience.

 

Dan "Deerslayer" Block is another board member Thompsonsmith who can remove the old and install your new grip mount.

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