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Rewiring the M60 barrel gas system


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#1 brucea4

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Posted 27 March 2019 - 12:06 PM

Hi all,

 

One of the downfalls depending on the way one looks at it is the wiring required when the gas assembly is taken down and cleaned on the standard M60.  I would be interested with other owner's outlook on keeping the bolts on the barrel " without " the constant rewiring?  


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#2 StrangeRanger

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Posted 27 March 2019 - 12:45 PM

Don't do it.

I used to not re-wire mine. Then the gas plug fell out the bottom.  That allowed just enough gas pressure to cycle the bolt through the fire and eject sequence but not enough to drive it back to where it would sear up.  The result was a runaway.  everything went downrange and into the backstop but just the same NFG.

 

BTW if you're interested my M60 links for sale are posted on the ammo board at Sturmgewehr.com


Edited by StrangeRanger, 27 March 2019 - 12:46 PM.

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#3 johnsonlmg41

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Posted 27 March 2019 - 08:43 PM

If you get the wire tie tool it's a breeze, and then you can use it on M37's and M2HB's to tie them off as well.   I think I paid $35?  Aside from practicality, I do like the look when it's done.  Course I like German guns better that avoid such nonsense altogether.  I have shot without in the past, but based on Strangeranger's experience I don't think I will do that again.  Most of the time I have an E3 barrel on it and now I know why. 


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#4 Maxim

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Posted 27 March 2019 - 09:13 PM

In my experience, the rear nut, that the operating rod passes through, needs to be wired as well.  After a lot of firing one day, the gas piston had beat on it, and had unscrewed it enough that it had tightened to the tube the op rod rides in.  That froze the barrel release lever, so that we had to beat on it to release the barrel.  The gun suffered no damage, and was not fired again without all safety wires in place.  I still have my wire twister pliers.


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#5 brucea4

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 02:44 AM

So, I get the fact that the gun should not be fired without the wire holding on to the nuts in the front & rear.  I was just wondering if Loctite would work as well.  


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#6 StrangeRanger

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 04:56 AM

Front, rear AND bottom.

The way you remove Loctited parts is to heat them which de-activates the Loctite.  The gas system gets hot, very hot.  I would not recommend it as an alternative to safety wire.  Seriously, just buy a pair of safety wire pliers and learn to use them.

 

https://www.pegasusa...asp?RecID=25033

 

This is the pair I have, you can spend a lot more for the professional grade units from Milbar but you're not servicing 737s 8/5/52


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#7 brucea4

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 10:35 AM

I guess Loctite is out of the question.  I have an old M60 military manual.  I guess I'll check it out and see if there are instructions how to wire it up correctly.


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#8 StrangeRanger

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 11:30 AM

TM 9-1005-224-24,  Page 2-10, Fig 2-7


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#9 brucea4

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 11:40 AM

I will look that up when I get a chance.  Thank you!


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#10 johnsonlmg41

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 08:16 PM

I got the Milbar's off the ebay for cheap  NIB.  I almost bought a chopper back in the day......so you never really know when you might need good ones?  Glad I got that out of my system!


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#11 brucea4

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Posted 28 March 2019 - 11:19 PM

TM 9-1005-224-24,  Page 2-10, Fig 2-7

Found it......


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#12 brucea4

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 08:31 AM

Does anyone know where there possibly could be a video on wiring up the gas assembly?  A static picture doesn't help me much.....


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#13 StrangeRanger

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 09:40 AM

It's really quite simple:

Feed the wire through the retaining hole in the plug/collar you want to secure and clamp the free ends a few inches away from the plug/collar in the pliers

Pull the knob at the rear end of the pliers, this will cause them to spin and twist the wire, only twist a short portion

Unclamp the wires and feed the free ends around the lug on the barrel shown in Fig. 2-7

Reclamp the free ends and pull on the knob again till the twisted portion of the wire is very nearly tight around the barrel lug

Use the side cutters on the pliers to trim the free ends

Bend the twisted end out of the way

Repeat on the other two plugs/collars

 

You WILL screw it up the first couple of times you try but safety wire is cheap


Edited by StrangeRanger, 29 March 2019 - 11:08 AM.

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#14 brucea4

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 10:20 AM

I do thank you for the explanation. My gun is in NFA jail right now but I will try on my Shrike barrel. Havent decided if I want the cheap pliers or the expensive ones???
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#15 StrangeRanger

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 11:08 AM

Edited instructions, please re-read step one


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#16 Normal1959

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 11:09 AM

I use the wire pliers and get great satisfaction treating the job like art work. With the right wire and the right pliers, you can make it look beautiful.

Super easy. 

Eric


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#17 ron_brock

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 11:53 AM

Safety wire:

https://m.youtube.co...h?v=Bz0yi-2sO0c

Ron
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#18 Normal1959

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 03:07 PM

Here is one i did :)

Takes a bit a practice the first time to be satisfied with the job.

Eric

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#19 brucea4

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 03:08 PM

Very kool video, thank you!
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#20 StrangeRanger

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Posted 29 March 2019 - 04:21 PM

Eric,

you forgot to wire the bottom plug.  That's the one that caused my issues


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