jim c 351 Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 Sandy, I've got a bolt with the "S" and small p ,but no "R". The "R" code must be the rare bolt. I'd say a really nice Savage made bolt. Jim C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buzz Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 (edited) Didn't Remington make parts for colt? And didn't plenty of colt parts get inherited by savage and end up on the first run of savage 28s? Maybe Savage got an R marked bolt with their crates of colt parts and stamped it? but the bolt is blued so that adds to the confusion Edited October 6, 2014 by buzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The1930sRust Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 That's my guess. (S)avage and ®emington both made '28 bolts. Don't know why or how it would wind up with two proof stamps. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted October 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 I was thinking that, Savage may have stamped a Colt bolt, as they did with the commercial. ( from the Hill book ) . Interesting mystery. It's a funny looking chemical look too, a reddish rust look but not rust. Not that I'm a expert on this, just running the question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim c 351 Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 I was thinking that, Savage may have stamped a Colt bolt, as they did with the commercial. ( from the Hill book ) . Interesting mystery. It's a funny looking chemical look too, a reddish rust look but not rust. Not that I'm a expert on this, just running the question.Or maybe Remington stamped a Savage bolt. Jim C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buzz Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 (edited) OCM, I've seen plenty of rust like that on blued gun parts, it's a very thin surface rust. If you hit that bolt with a 6" wire wheel, you might be surprised how nicely it cleans up. Edited October 7, 2014 by buzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted October 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 It's not my bolt, but will tell the owner he might consider doing that- At this point he is exchanging out the internals with all Savage GI parts. As I said in a previous post, the Blish lock " ramp" looks like a straight cut as per PK's advice.Only issue I'm seeing now is the frame takes a good hitting(s) with a rubber mallet to get off. It's still off, so I assume the same getting back on. It may just need a good working and maybe some white grease in the ramps or whatever it's called. I thought it was froze on originally from sitting since 1983. Any advice is appreciated here... OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnshooter Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 It's not my bolt, but will tell the owner he might consider doing that- At this point he is exchanging out the internals with all Savage GI parts. As I said in a previous post, the Blish lock " ramp" looks like a straight cut as per PK's advice. Only issue I'm seeing now is the frame takes a good hitting(s) with a rubber mallet to get off. It's still off, so I assume the same getting back on. It may just need a good working and maybe some white grease in the ramps or whatever it's called. I thought it was froze on originally from sitting since 1983. Any advice is appreciated here... OCMI have seen one WH that was as tight as you describe. There was a post a while back suggesting some lapping compound and working the parts similar to lapping a 1911 slide. Worth a try. I would rather start out with one that is too tight -assuming the other alignments are good, than try to tighten one that is so loose it rattles; have seen a couple like that also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted October 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 (edited) OK, thanks for all the advice, everyone. We should re-visit the gun in a week, at the dealer. I don't want to do much till he gets his stamp and in his hands- Then we will look at it. Right now, just get the GI parts into it and get the frame back on the receiver............. Run a XX thru it, then switch to FA. Be a mighty day when that Thompson barks for my pal. Been a long road for him and still is. OCM Edited October 9, 2014 by OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 the WH frame and upper are rather soft, they will gome apart easier just by using it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The1930sRust Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 Does anyone have pics of a failed WH receiver? Love to see what it looks like. R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim c 351 Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 Does anyone have pics of a failed WH receiver? Love to see what it looks like. RHere you go. Jim C http://www.sturmgewehr.com/dalbert/MGBoards/Krogh/IMG_0262X_Web.JPG http://www.sturmgewehr.com/dalbert/MGBoards/Krogh/IMG_0267X_Web.JPG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The1930sRust Posted October 10, 2014 Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 What supposedly caused this? R Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) Took my buddy's WH out for it's first run today at the indoor range- ( owner is a friend of his ) We had changed internals with Savage - Ran about 300 rounds thru it with no hiccups at all, except the mag catch was a hair to short so had to really make sure the XX mags were in tight- The L drums weren't catching very well, I suggested no using them, almost could wiggle out. He's calling Don Bell for a new GI one.Is it an easy switch I assume or any issue you guys might know of. Looks like a push out push in affair.Store put up a target with John Dillinger written on it for fun. Started two small ( small) fires in the empty casings in front of the lane- Haaaa, great fun with machine guns. Thanks- OCM Edited October 31, 2014 by OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colt21a Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Wes Hurleee's the bad boys of the tommygun world! a beauty to look at and great to hold, shoot the heck out of it then consider it sold!I today still have not found one guy that collects the Hurley, for collector purpose, just to shoot and change them up.# 6444 and #8780 out there someplace. custom numbers for old stuff I had many today would not own a tommy if not for the great price of the Hurley back in the day.$500.00 each. and figure they made money on selling them for that. RON Colt21a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 This is strictly a shooter he has more fun letting friends and family shoot it then himself, I think. Giving it to his son someday. This is a new WH that was bought in 83 never fired and today was the first round through it. Nothing about collecting or $$, strictly for fun and wasting brass. #6444, good custom number, as you know. Don't remember 8780, Floyd's maybe ? OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD. Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 Replacing a WH magazine catch for a GI one is a smart move, especially if the WH catch is not working properly. It is not that hard of a process for someone who has done it previously. You have to completely disassemble the frame. The magazine catch is the last part to come off and the first to go back on. Make sure Don includes the magazine catch spring with the magazine catch. Save the magazine catch spring from the WH catch as the spring is GI and may be useful in the future. Be careful with the fingers of the pivot plate. These can be somewhat fragile. If you do not have the non-marring tool to remove the pivot plate, I have found some duct tape on a large flat blade screw driver will work if you are careful and take your time. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gio Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 TD. Hate to question your expertise but you don't need to take the frame completely apart. To just change the magazine catch you only need to move the pivot plate out far enough so the magazine catch stop which is part of the pivot plate is flush with frame. Than you can work the magazine up enough to remove. This way you don't have to worry about putting all the parts of the frame back together. I do have the non-marring tool for removing the pivot plate but I also push on the plate pins on the left side so I can put a business card between the pivot plate and frame on right side just for more protection. Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted November 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 Great, thanks- We've decided to let someone that knows what they are doing change it out. Have the catch on order ( with spring) . Will deal with that when it arrives. PK lives on the other side of the mountains from us, sent an email to see what his schedule might be. He could probably do this while tying his shoes. Me, I'd break it to fix it doing this as a favor. Thanks again for the response, OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD. Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 Frank,Your certainly right. However, I think for someone doing it the first time it is much easier to go ahead and take everything apart. This also allows for a complete learning experience along with an inspection. Sandy,I bet PK will not have any trouble fitting this small job into his busy schedule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted November 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 Even with great experiencing dissembling a Thompson frame, my arthritic thumbs wouldn't allow such activity, it's all about thumbs and a non-marring tools, which I have neither, good thumbs that is.The frame did go on fine yesterday, rubber mallet and a custom oak tool I made, tapped right on, tight, but on. The 28 spring is still a bitch, even with the JC spring tool, my pal's son was there, no issues, got it right on. Was like fly fishing with my nephew, used to make him tie my flies on, easier then the magnifying thing I had on my sunglasses, then he stopped fly fishing with Uncle Sandy.To bad youth is wasted on the young- Will Rogers maybe. ? Thanks all for the help on this project. We'll get PK or someone that knows the Thompson to install the mag catch and we're good to go.Appreciate the good advice here on the forum. I don't think I'll ever get off the Thompson newbie list, always something to learn- OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 PK will be tied up till after the first of the year, which may work, as my pal is waiting for the 34 stamp. Still would have to get permission from the dealer to release the lower, I know, but.Any qualified Thompson Smiths out there interested in the change out.Not sure where this will go but will have to be done sooner or later, I think he'd like it sooner just cause he can run a L drum through it. Thanks- OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted November 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 The owner of the 28 WH, said that his son & I aught to try the mag catch conversion. My biggest issue is it's not my gun and doesn't have a scratch on it, basically a NOS gun. I've never busted into my Colt frames, but can see someone had on the 28N, so never been down the frame stripping road. I guess if he's willing and we take our time, will tackle the project. Can always dial in here for help if needed. Just another gun. OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gio Posted November 9, 2014 Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 OCM You shouldn't have any problem as long as you take your time. Be sure to tape or use things to protect the lower. And finally don't force anything. Good luck and let us know how is turns out. Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bug Posted November 9, 2014 Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 OCM, if you have a digital camera, take pictures as you go. I've found that to be a great help in the re-assembly of anything I take apart. Bob D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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