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Medea Corp M3


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Howdy all,

 

I ended buying one of the last M3 Medea Corp shells a little back. My form 4 got sent for a minor correction and the SOT thinks probbally things its near the end game. As of right now I am having John Andrewski finish this up , though he did say their particular shell is a , "bit rough."

 

I managed with some help to find a new nice Guide Lamp saw cut parts kit, and have a bunch of other spares include a extra barrel and bolt assembly with guide rods/springs.

 

My main question is what are considered the high wear items on this SMG?

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Edited by Mojopin2010
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Recoil springs, sears, and extractors.

 

 

Recoil springs and sear-5k-7.5k rounds

 

Extractor-10k rds unless its steel then cut that in half.

 

 

This is all based on personal experience with my M3. The advice is worth what you paid for it, but its a base line for you.

Edited by Got Uzi
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My gun was doing runaways. Turned out to be a worn sear and trigger spring was really bad

 

You can find main springs on GB

 

These guns bottom out and beat on the back. I have a suppressor barrel for mine and it softens up the gun dramatically. I dont think it bottoms out anymore. It makes the gun easily 2x better.

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The bolt wont bottom out on the back of the receiver as long as the recoil springs are changed after 5,000 rounds or so. I got to the point Id change them out after 3,500 rounds.....$30 set of springs vs a $28k-$32k receiver.....yeah thats a no brained.

 

The other part in an M3A1 that causes issues was the improved design of the guide rod back plate. The original M3 used a large plate, a lot of surface area to spread the stress across. The M3A1 used a small plate which put all the stress in one central area. Couple that with a non-maintained gun and yeah youll blow out the back. The improved version was down so you can take the bolt assembly out of an M3A1 without pulling the ejector housing out, unlike the M3. The large plate on the M3 wouldnt clear the ejector.

 

Id run an M3 guide rod assembly in your Medea build. Its better on the gun. If you want to be able to pull the bolt assembly out without pulling the ejector housing off-Machine an 1/8 slot into the back plate to create clearance for it to pass the ejector on the way out.

 

Suppresses on M3s will actually create faster spring wear due to increased pressures throwing the bolt harder. The feeling of it shooting softer is due to damn near doubling the over all weight of the gun. Put a suppressor on an Uzi and it really makes the gun shoot smoother but you can also feel more bolt speed to the rear. Same thing here-suppressed means more bolt speed rearward which means more spring tension needed to counteract that.

Edited by Got Uzi
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  • 4 weeks later...

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