Jump to content

Win 97 Butt Plate


Recommended Posts

I'll take a chance here. I picked up an early Win 97 (82,000 SN) and it needs a metal plate. Any thoughts?? TIA

 

Bob D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'll take a chance here. I picked up an early Win 97 (82,000 SN) and it needs a metal plate. Any thoughts?? TIA

 

Bob D

Unless it is a rebuild, you will need a black plastic buttplate with the intertwined WRA logo.

 

Bruce,

 

Now that's a surprise. I was bidding on one of the plates posted above. It was metal and had the widows peak. When I looked closer at the pics the plate had a distinct curve where it met the stock. The stock I have has a flat butt . I know nothing of the gun other than that it was made around the turn of the century according to the SN. The stock is in really nice shape so it could be a replacement. Someone could have cut the stock base flat when they installed the aftermarket plate that was on it when I got it. Where can I get a good photo or information as to what the stock base should look like?

 

Bob D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bruce,

 

Thanks again for your info. I work with an FFL and I believe he has a copy of your book. I'll check it out.

 

I'm wondering what they used for plastic in 1899. Will the plate look anything like this link??

 

 

http://homesteadpart...rt/pid_1025.htm

 

Bob D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bruce,

 

Thanks again for your info. I work with an FFL and I believe he has a copy of your book. I'll check it out.

 

I'm wondering what they used for plastic in 1899. Will the plate look anything like this link??

 

 

http://homesteadpart...rt/pid_1025.htm

 

Bob D

 

Linky no worky! :P

 

 

Thanks for the heads up. I don't know how I screwed that up. It is the link in post #3 above in this thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The original 1897 butt plates were made of hard rubber. Because of this, they were somewhat delicate and are prone to wear and cracking.

 

Replacements as sold above are really easy to fit. Screw the new butt plate into place. Scribe a line around the edge of butt plate where it overhangs the stock. Remove the plate, then file or sand to shape. Lastly, use very fine sand paper to remove the file/sanding marks. Polish the edges, and you have a very factory looking job.

 

If installing on a new butt stock, attach the butt plate and shape it during the stock's finish sanding operation, just as the Winchester factory did, all of those years ago.

 

Gunparts also has what you need, though I have not used this particular part of theirs and cannot attest to its quality:

 

http://www.gunpartsc...cts/247960A.htm

Edited by TSMGguy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help, everyone. I guess it's safe to assume that the early buttplates did not have the widows peak. This stock may be from a period when they did use metal plate with peak.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the help, everyone. I guess it's safe to assume that the early buttplates did not have the widows peak. This stock may be from a period when they did use metal plate with peak.

The configurartion of the metal buttplate you describe sounds like the type used by U.S. ordnance facilities for rebuilding Model 97s between the World Wars which had broken buttplates. With the exception of some brass buttplates on "civilian trenchguns" built in the late 20s and early 30s, Winchester M97s didn't leave New Haven with metal buttplates. They were plastic, actually hard rubber as some correctly pointed out.

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe that the hard materiel used for these butt plates was called gutta percha. It was an early form of plastic superceded by polythene in the 1930s, along with bakelite shortly thereafter. It's often called "hard rubber", and can be found today in reproduction classic automotive battery cases, as well as the butt plates discussed.

 

http://atlantic-cable.com/Article/GuttaPercha/index.htm

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...