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WH 1927a1 rear sight issues


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#1 Baltimoreed11754

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 10:09 AM

It appears that there is a rivet or screw missing from my rear sight as per the posted photo. I missed seeing it during the auction and only noticed it after reading about rear sights coming loose. In researching repairs Im finding two choices-screws or rivets, both of which can work loose. Being a wanna be machinists Im leaning towards screws but am curious as to what has more steel to thread, the steel rcver or the sight? Which steel is thicker? What fails in this arraignment, the threads strip out or the screws unscrew themselves? I like the idea of threading the sight and using flat head allen screws countersunk from inside the recvr. [see second photo] And then doing a staking [like a gas key in an AR]. Whats the consensus?

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Edited by Baltimoreed11754, 16 April 2019 - 10:20 AM.

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#2 Ivan

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 11:31 AM

If there is enough metal there Flat Head Bolts plus staking should work. 

Had an issue with mine. Original rear sight was replaced with a M249 rear sight. Holes were made over sized. Used steel rivets to install the "L" type sight. Used an aluminum bar for anvil under reciever. Placed steel washers of right size under rivet head, held in place with grease. Carefully clamped everything to bench and started peening , using punch and 16 oz ball peen hammer. Switched to 6 oz ball peen to finish. Turned out OK. Tight. Passed test fire 80 rounds.


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#3 Hossbreed45

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Posted 16 April 2019 - 11:53 AM

Which steel is thicker?

 

The receiver is thicker.

 

My sight is screwed-on with the threads being in the receiver.

 

Red Loctite can be used to secure them.

 

Hope this helps...


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#4 deerslayer

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 08:38 PM

Philadelphia ordnance and Doug Richardson have rivets. Put it on the way it's supposed to be.
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#5 Baltimoreed11754

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Posted 22 April 2019 - 08:24 PM

Picked up the Thompson today, thinning blue, a few freckles, scratches, looks ok to me. I didnt want one that was brand new, I hoped to get one that was already somewhat broken in. Good news on my 1927 sight, what looked like a missing rivet or screw turned out to be a perfectly fine rivet. Rear sight is tight. Ive picked up 11 mags, [one came with the rifle] six have been altered with elongated holes and engage the mag catch. The others have not been altered and other than the one lone 20 rounder Im not going to mess with them now. The initial firing with only 5 rds in each of the mags that locked up resulted in 3 good mags [no misfeeds] and 3 ?? mags that had misfeeds and one stovepipe. I know it will take a lot more shooting to verify a magazine 100% but youve got to start somewhere. The gun shot fine and easily hit my cowboy steel. Using the good mags it seemed to like my 200 gr swc pc boolits. The large cocking handle is not hard to move right handed, until the end of travel, the last inch is tough and a lot tougher left handed. Ill tear it down later this week and mess with the springs and buffer. Fun stuff.

Edited by Baltimoreed11754, 23 April 2019 - 07:16 AM.

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#6 Ivan

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 07:45 AM

You will probably get better results with a 230 gr Round Nose bullet load. That is what Tommy Guns were designed to use.


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#7 Baltimoreed11754

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 09:20 AM

I think Ive got a round nose mould, it should run with hard cast lead shouldnt it? My AR.45s and 1911s do. I shoot a lot of close steel and prefer lead.

Edited by Baltimoreed11754, 23 April 2019 - 09:23 AM.

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#8 Ivan

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Posted 23 April 2019 - 02:58 PM

I run 45 cast bullets through everything. Bullet size and lube are important. Try Thompsons bullet lube. Blue Angel.


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#9 Baltimoreed11754

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Posted 26 April 2019 - 07:30 AM

I got lazy and ordered 1000 230 gr lead Hunter brand bullets from MidwayUSA. Let somebody else cast and lube them, Ill just load and shoot em. Tweeked a couple of bad mags, the elongated hole was a little off on one and the only parkerized mag was misfeeding. The feed lips were bent up so I straightened them up but lowered them too much so then had to raise and widen them a little bit. Tried it and it ran 5 rds ok. That is a heavy rifle though, makes my Garand feel light.

Edited by Baltimoreed11754, 26 April 2019 - 07:44 AM.

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#10 Baltimoreed11754

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Posted 12 May 2019 - 05:26 PM

I got my springs and buffer material from mcmaster and installed them. A big improvement in cycling the bolt. It wasnt that hard until you got to the last inch, then it got tough. After installing the new springs it feels the same through the entire motion with no real stacking at the last inch. With the easier springs Im finding it easier to chamber a round as I can pull the bolt fully to the rear which gives it plenty of momentum to strip a round and chamber. Loaded up some 230 gr rn lead and they did fine. But there are visible machining marks on the feed ramp so Im going to try to smooth it up some. It easily hits my small sass marshals at 35 yds.
Got my nfa sbr paperwork mailed to atf and my cleo. Now al I can do is debug my 1927 and wait.

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Edited by Baltimoreed11754, 13 May 2019 - 05:34 PM.

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