Cleaning & Re-oiling Thompson Wood

[motorgun]

When I bought my Colt Thompson 1921/28 overstamp, it was all original, except for the stock and front grip. I eventually was able to acquire all Colt wood, however, the front grip and stock appear a little darker than the middle grip. I'm thinking that cleaning and re-oiling with linseed oil may achieve a better match of the 3 wood pieces. Do you think this is a valid assumption

 

I just read Tom Davis Jr's new book "An Amateur's Guide for the Colt's Thompson Submachine Gun" and Chapter 19 covers Cleaning and Staining of Gunstocks. One of the cleaning steps involves going over the wood lightly with a painters rag wetted with acetone. Since acetone is used, am I correct in assuming that the original gunstocks were not stained, but rather just coated with boiled linseed oil? After cleaning and drying, the book recommends rubbing with boiled linseed oil - no mention of any stain.

 

By the way, I thought this book was an excellent source to determine the authenticity of a Colt Thompson in great detail and I'm very pleased I didn't encounter any issues with mine. The actuator in the attached picture as well as the internals currently in the gun are WWII. I put the Colt internals and 2-piece actuator away so as not to damage them on the very rare occasions that I shoot the Thompson.

 

Any other suggestions for getting the wood to match would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have.http://village.photos/images/user/3b356764-3c64-452b-9fc4-f286a1aef749/430b53ee-c6b0-4e34-8bee-a814aceb08a4.jpeg

[gijive]

motorgun,

 

Yes, essentially the instructions in Tom Davis Jr's. excellent reference are essentially correct. There was no stain on the wood, the darker and lighter grips on your wood are just from wear and handling over the years. Be aware, though, that all three pieces of Colt wood even on originals did not always match exactly. The acetone will strip the old linseed oil finish and remove grime and oil from years of handling but will lighten the wood. Applications of Boiled Linseed Oil, apply, wait ten minutes, wipe off excess, let dry 24 hours and repeat at least five times will eventually darken the wood, but it won't be as dark as almost 100 year of handling. It will refresh the wood, highlight the grain of the individual piece of wood and slightly darken it. Just don't be disappointed if it doesn't all match exactly. The black walnut used sometimes has light areas in the grain that will look more golden than dark brown. Good luck with your project.

[motorgun]

gijive,

 

Thanks for the informative response. I will proceed with the project and, hopefully, the wood will match a little better. If it doesn't, it's good to know it didn't always match exactly on the originals.

[villafuego]

A product I've used on plenty of firearms is Howards "Feed and wax". It does an excellent job of cleaning the surface, without really removing the protective/hardened oils.

 

Some folks don't care for it, but I've had excellent results...…...

[motorgun]

villafuego,

 

I use that product on some of my shotgun stocks with good results. For the Thompson, however, I want to get the old oil off in the hopes that when all 3 wood pieces are finished the same, they may match better. We shall see....

 

Thanks

[Tiz]

Boiled linseed oil was used by the makers of flint lock muzzle loading Pennsylvania Long Rifles in and around the Lancaster area of PA. back in the day. They hand rubbed the linseed oil into the wood. With the combined natural warmth of the hand and the massaging action working it into the wood and letting it "dry" between coats they achieved a beautiful finish to the wood. The formula they used was, 1 coat a day for a week, 1 coat a week for a month and 1 coat a month for a year each being hand rubbed into the wood. I don't know if this would achieve the the finish you seek but there is something to be said for old school craftsmanship, like 250 years ago.

[Frank Iannamico]

Be careful disposing of rags soaked with linseed oil, spontaneous combustion has been know to occur.

[gijive]

Be careful disposing of rags soaked with linseed oil, spontaneous combustion has been know to occur.

Frank,

 

Good advice. One should dispose of the rags in a fireproof-type garbage can. Don't let them lay around loose on a work bench with other rags or chemicals. Another thing you can do is use a rag to wipe of the excess a couple of times, then soak it with water and dispose of it. Use several clean small cut up cotton T-shirt rags a couple of times, then dispose, repeat every couple of days with clean rags.

[LSU Tiger]

I've had good results on M-1 rifle stocks using mineral spirits and applying Formby's tung oil.

[TD.]

motorgun,

Thank you for the kind comments about my new book.

 

I agree with Frank and gijive about the disposal of linseed oil soaked rags. However, there is no need to end up with linseed oil soaked rags. If you only apply a small amount of linseed oil and hand rub the oil in the wood as told in the book, when you go to wipe any excess oil off after 15 minutes, there will be very little oil on the clean rag. The trick is not to apply too much oil and hand rub the oil into the wood. Remember, less oil is better! I also believe it waiting for each coat to dry for several days. I state in the book 2 to 3 days but allowing for more drying time between the cleaning and the application of the linseed oil is always better.

[Chip]

I have had very good luck with cleaning up stocks with Clenzoil. Not refinishing, but cleaning and oiling stock.

[motorgun]

Thanks for all the good advice. TD - your book is a must have for a Colt Thompson owner - thanks for publishing it!

[motorgun]

Following procedure in TD's book. Have the 1st coating of boiled linseed oil on the wood and the parts look like they are going to match much better than they used to. The stock and front grip were much dirtier than the middle grip,http://village.photos/images/user/3b356764-3c64-452b-9fc4-f286a1aef749/resized_74e7c57f-e3f6-4ab9-9606-2fcb5f037971.jpg

[Colt Chopper]

Looks great !

[First Sergeant]

The heat from the Porsche engine will definitely speed up the drying process. Looks great !!

[2ndArmored]

Are you hanging them from the garage ceiling so you know when to stop backing in?

[motorgun]

I'm hanging them from the middle of a hydraulic lift, however, I better move them to the front so I don't accidentally back in to them!

 

The only material thing I love as much as the Colt Tompson is above them - a numbers matching 1969 Camaro Z28.

Edited September 3, 2019 by motorgun

[motorgun]

After five days of drying, lightly sanded with 0000 steel wool and applied 2nd boiled linseed oil coat. The pieces are starting to match pretty well.

 

http://village.photos/images/user/3b356764-3c64-452b-9fc4-f286a1aef749/5f4397ba-75b0-4c82-9e9e-ab5e8b2d8cf0.jpg

 

http://village.photos/images/user/3b356764-3c64-452b-9fc4-f286a1aef749/60d0c581-b1b8-4c7b-a711-1ba17ad924d7.jpg

[gijive]

motorgun,

 

Looking good! Just make sure you wipe easily with the 0000 steel wool to smooth the finish between coats. You don't want to alter the contours of the original Colt wood.

[motorgun]

gijive,

 

Thanks - I've been very careful. When it dries for 5 more days, how can I tell if it needs another coat?

[gijive]

gijive,

 

Thanks - I've been very careful. When it dries for 5 more days, how can I tell if it needs another coat?

Sorry, didn't see this right away. I usually put several coats on but it is your call. I might put at least three on.

[2ndArmored]

What are you trying to accomplish? If it's protection from the elements, hand oils, etc. then IMHO 3 coats is sufficient for a weapon that won't see combat. If you're trying to match colors (which I think is your goal), then you'll know it when you see it.

 

[motorgun]

Guess Ill go with 3 coats as its already starting to match pretty good.

[reconbob]

I am a charter member of the oily rags causes fires club. I use to laugh at

this but when I was in high school working as a janitor we had a Saturday job

to re-oil all of the big wooden desks on two floors of offices in a high end building.

 

We were given paint cans with labels that said "Gunstock Oil" and the routine

was to take all the stuff off a desk, give it a heavy coat, then wipe it down with

dry rags leaving a thin coat.

 

It was an all day job and when we stopped for lunch I had the bright idea to

neatly fold the heavily oiled rags and place then in a pile on the wooden parquet

floor in front of the elevators figuring any spilled oil could just be rubbed into

the wood floor.

 

When we got back maybe an hour later I went to pick up the rags and burned

my hand. We had returned just in time because you could see the heat waves shimmering

off the rags. We poked at the rags and unfolded them and that seemed to stop whatever

the reaction is but it was a close call. I think an oily rag flat and laid out is no problem

but folded or piled rags are certain death. Safety first.

 

Bob

[motorgun]

Thanks for the safety tip!

 

Mark