stingray656667 Posted May 4, 2019 Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 Is it detrimental to the integrity of the upper to heat the nose with a torch to aid in removal of a stubborn barrel? I have a wrench but even with this device I cannot break the barrel loose. I've seen some parts kits that have a darkened section on the nose of the receiver where it was obviously heated very hot to remove the barrel but, again, will this cause any damage, affect function or change the heat treat (if so treated) of this area? Thank you for any replies and input. stingray656667 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD. Posted May 4, 2019 Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 If me, I would contact Bob Bowers at Philadelphia Ordnance. I understand Bob is very good at removing stubborn barrels and his hourly rate is very reasonable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThompsonCrazy Posted May 4, 2019 Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 (edited) Heat is OK to remove barrels from demilled stubs as close to last resort but not on a firing TSMG especially NFA. You'll loose the heat treat in the grip mount too which will cause it to be much more flexible and have to be replaced unless using with a horizontal grip with reinforcement strap.. Is this a transferable receiver, sample, semi, display? What type of setup are you using to clamp the barrel? What are you using on the receiver? Original finish, parkerized, other? Have you soaked the barrel threads with any chemicals? Where about are you located? TC Edited May 4, 2019 by ThompsonCrazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reconbob Posted May 4, 2019 Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 I would not use a torch to try to heat a receiver - even if it is only a stub from a deactivatedgun - to be able to remove the barrel. To get the receiver hot enough to do any good would likelydamage the barrel. M1928A1 barrels are easier to "break" than M1/M1A1 barrels. I have mentionedbefore that we do a lot of barrel removal and the standard routine for an M1/M1A1 is to clamp thebarrel at its thickest close to the receiver in a hydraulic press using special blocks. Then we havea BIG adjustable wrench that we fit to the receiver right where the threads are, then we have a 3 foot pipe to slide over the handle of the wrench and even with all of this you really have to usea lot of force to break the barrel free. You are turning the receiver off the barrel and you can onlyturn the receiver maybe 1/8 of a turn before the grip mount hits the blocks. My point being thatsome of the barrels can be very tight.I know that many have their own tricks to do this but it rises beyond the level of a standard workbench and vise, etc. And while all this is going on you have to flex the grip mount awayfrom the barrel so you don't scratch the barrel as you unscrew it. Bob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Posted May 4, 2019 Report Share Posted May 4, 2019 I had one that was in there really good and it was staked as well. Bob was able to get it off and install a new barrel. My wrench just laughed at it. Good luck with the swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petroleum 1 Posted May 5, 2019 Report Share Posted May 5, 2019 Is there some type of hardened sealant on the threads causing this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petroleum 1 Posted May 5, 2019 Report Share Posted May 5, 2019 (edited) duplicate Edited May 5, 2019 by Petroleum 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1921A Posted May 5, 2019 Report Share Posted May 5, 2019 (edited) Send the barreled receiver to reconbob. Some years ago I let a local gunsmith talk me into replacing a barrel on a transferable M1. He hit the grip mount and split a chunk out of the receiver nose the length of the grip mount slot. That cost me dearly to have it fixed by someone who knew what he was doing and I was still left with a weld repair on what had been a very nice M1. Note: We made a welding rod out of a ground up cut receiver and used that for the repair. After welding, milling and bead blasting, the repair was almost invisible but it reduced the value of the gun significantly. Edited May 5, 2019 by 1921A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highdesert54 Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 I have a nice M1A1 parts kit and a dummy receiver. Im trying to make a nice wall display but holy hell this barrel is stuck on this cut receiver. Who is bob and how do I get ahold of him to send him my barrel to have it removed. I do not want to damage the barrel. Does anyone have his contact info? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrangeRanger Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 He's reconbob on this board, send him a PM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Iannamico Posted June 12, 2020 Report Share Posted June 12, 2020 Weld a nut on the stub and spin it off with an air-wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2ndArmored Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 I tried Frank's idea on a particularly uncooperative stub. It was like cutting down an oak tree with a toothbrush. Some guys like a challenge. I'm one of them. But my time is worth something too. I've used Bob's services in the past and it's always been money well-spent. http://philaord.com/contact-us/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paladin601 Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 If me, I would contact Bob Bowers at Philadelphia Ordnance. I understand Bob is very good at removing stubborn barrels and his hourly rate is very reasonable. He did one for me a few years back $25, probably more now, but was worth it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD. Posted June 13, 2020 Report Share Posted June 13, 2020 You can contact Bob Bowers at: Philaord@aol.com 215-576-0259 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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