New M3

[EM1/SS]

I picked up my new M3 today.

 

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa288/kent158/100_6124_zpsda9eb138.jpg

 

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa288/kent158/100_6125_zps3850d7a2.jpg

 

It's an early serial number, probably in the first month of production.

[jim c 351]

em1/ss,

It must be an early M3. It has a early, non reinforced rear site. The only place I can remember seeing such a rear site is in manuals.

I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with it.

Any interesting history??

Jim C

[EM1/SS]

The M3A1 barrel that's on it is threaded internally for a blank firing adapter. I bought it from a place that rents out MG's for movies. They didn't have a list of movies it was used in. I'm doing a FOIA search now to see what comes up.

[EM1/SS]

I have a question on my sear. I purchased some M3 parts months ago and one of the items was a sear. It has a raise lip on it that mine does not have. Is the raised lip the early or the late part, or is it an M3A1 part?

 

Mine:

 

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa288/kent158/100_6140_zpsa6c571d3.jpg

 

The one I bought:

 

http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa288/kent158/standard1_zps21b2e75f.jpg

[AlexanderA]

I believe the sear with the wider nose is the later design, although it's not specific to the M3A1.

[jim c 351]

^EM1/SS

^{I believe that alexander is correct about the sear. It has a slightly wider surface for bearing against the sear notch. I think I put one in my M3.}

^{Does your bolt have an "H" stamped on the right side , visible when the cover is open. If it does, the you have a heat treated bolt. I not you get some wear on the bolt sear notch.}

^{Jim C}

[EM1/SS]

My bolt is a Baffalo Arms. I'm going to look for a GL bolt. I bought a complete bolt months ago, but it is an Ittaca bolt.

[jim c 351]

My bolt is a Baffalo Arms. I'm going to look for a GL bolt. I bought a complete bolt months ago, but it is an Ittaca bolt.

EM1,

The Buffalo bolt is the correct bolt for your M3. What's the date stamped on the rear of the bolt? The Ithaca bolts were spare parts, If I remember correctly.

Suggest you buy Frank I's book on the M3.

Jim C

[EM1/SS]

I do have Frank's book. I got it from a member here with some mags I bought. I had only looked at it a few times. I went cover to cover last weekend. My bolt's dated 2-44. Thanks for all the info.

[EM1/SS]

There is an H and a P on the bolt.

[jim c 351]

There is an H and a P on the bolt.

EM1,

Your good to go.

One more thing that I did with my M3. I cut 3 buffers from a plastic milk jug, in the shape of the rear spring guide (rear plate) and punched 2 holes in them. I put one between the bolt springs and rear plate. I put 2 between the rear plate and receiver.

Why?? Because I read in Frank I's book about cracking at the rear of receiver. Don't know how much good they do, but they don't do any harm and didn't cost anything.

Jim C

[EM1/SS]

Sounds like a good idea. I bought a few mags while it was being transfered to me. Anyone know a source for mags that will not break the bank?

[dalbert]

 

There is an H and a P on the bolt.

EM1,

Your good to go.

One more thing that I did with my M3. I cut 3 buffers from a plastic milk jug, in the shape of the rear spring guide (rear plate) and punched 2 holes in them. I put one between the bolt springs and rear plate. I put 2 between the rear plate and receiver.

Why?? Because I read in Frank I's book about cracking at the rear of receiver. Don't know how much good they do, but they don't do any harm and didn't cost anything.

Jim C

 

I have a friend whose M3A1 is cracking at the rear of the receiver. I believe his is a Medea gun. It started cracking within the last 10 years or so.

 

David Albert

dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

[emmagee1917]

I wonder if we could talk the makers of the Thompson pads to do a run of these for our M3s ? A two piece double disk for the early style and a disk with a " ] " cut in the back to fit the late style ?

Chris

Edited September 16, 2013 by emmagee1917

[jim c 351]

I wonder if we could talk the makers of the Thompson pads to do a run of these for our M3s ? A two piece double disk for the early style and a disk with a " ] " cut in the back to fit the late style ?

Chris

Chris,

I think the normal TSMG buffer pads would be way to thick to fit behind the rear recoil plate, but I guess it would work between the springs and recoil plate. But then you would still have the rear plate banging against the rear of receiver.

Jim C

[emmagee1917]

That was why I was thinking 2-piece. A disk with a cutout for either the M3 or M3A1 style guide that would be thin to the rear and " cupping " the guide plate and covering the rear of the reciever except for the very outer edge. It would be held in place by the rods going through the reciever going through 2 holes in the disk as well as the plate fitting in it's recess. The front piece would fit behind the recoil springs and fit like a lid over the rear piece , also held in place by the rods and the rear piece itself. This would spread the bolt's impact over all the rear of the reciever while preventing metal to metal between bolt / plate / reciever. It could not be thick like the Thompson's , but even at twice the thickness of the rear plate , it should help a lot without causing undo stress by restricting bolt travel. A fraction of an inch in travel could be added by the pack causing the bbl to tighten a part of a turn sooner do to the rear pad pushing the entire stack forward. This fraction of an inch of movement must be small enough to not affect sear lock up.One could also take a small slice off the rear of the bolt to give room for a pad in the bolt travel.We are talking about 1/16 to 1/8 inch or so.

Chris

[Jeff51]

If anybody comes up with a disk for the M3-A1 let me know because I`ll take one.