Grasshopper Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Hi All, I've decided to dig out the 08/15. I know. This is a MG34 forum. Quick question. What would be a good belt filler (good being available, reasonable priced) to use with the MG34 belts? For casual shooting of Also, since I've not worked with these belts before, is the MG42 belt the same as the MG34 belt. They are often advertised as such. Is IMA as good a place as any to get the belts? Thanks. Sincerely, Grasshopper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoscoeTurner Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 MG34 and MG42 use the same belt. Be sure belts are 8mm and not MG3 7.62 NATO belts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Lone Ranger Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 http://militarygunsupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1195 SARCO used to have some for good prices, but could not find them. This is not bad. You can find belts all over, but have to pay attention if you are specifically looking for wartime production. I have never used them in a 08/15, but used wartime and post war belts interchangeably in 34, 42, and 74 both .308 and 8mm with no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoscoeTurner Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 These belts are still in plentiful supply, you should have no problem locating a source. One dealer at the last Knob Creek had a 55 gallon drum of these belts for sale. The ones I looked at were in very good condition, I do not remember the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black River Militaria CII Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 In my experience,, all MG34/42 belts are stamped on the square connector tab with date and maker ID, so that is as good a filter as any to insure that the belts is 7.92. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted November 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Hi Everyone, Thanks for the tutorial in belt usage. I guess I came to the right place. BTW, loading a belt by hand isn't that hard...is it? Just about 50 to 100 rounds per outing. TIA, Grasshopper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsonlmg41 Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 I have several loaders and for 50-100 I wouldn't even take one out of the can and set it up. They are probably the best belt to this day for a shooter. Easy to load and you just pick it up off the ground when you're done. At 200 rounds in a race it would be close to even between setup and takedown vs. handloading. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 (edited) Thanks JohnsonLMG41! The last piece of info I needed to get moving. I'd better look around a grab a few belts. Maybe some free shipping on Black Friday. I've got a new booster read to try. And then there is an 08/15 lock that binds part way through travel when attached to the crank. It never ends. Thanks again, Grasshopper Edited November 25, 2015 by Grasshopper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black River Militaria CII Posted December 2, 2015 Report Share Posted December 2, 2015 As you move the lock backwards with the crank, is there a spot where you feel resistance? Is that to what you are referring when you say it "binds"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper Posted December 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2015 Hi, There is some resistance when it cocks the lock. If I release the crank to let it go to battery (even w/o any rounds) the toggle only gets about 1/2 straightened out and it stops. This was a change that happened in the middle of a shooting session. I hope I didn't get a bullet pushed back into a case and fired. The increased pressure may have damaged the lock. If the toggle is not attached to the lock, the crank and lock move freely. I put a spare lock in the gun and it seems ok. That makes me suspect the lock. BTW, with a 1910 lock, feedblock, barrel and crank/recoil plate assembly, is a 7.62x54R conversion worth doing? I reload all my ammo. I cannot bring myself to run corrosive in these 100 yo guns. Thanks, Grasshopper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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