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Recent Purchase: M1 converted to M2


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Hi All,

 

I'm new to the class 3 world and I just purchased an M2 for my first FA firearm. It's an IBM M1 converted to an M2 with a registered trigger group. I was looking for something I could shoot and not be afraid of breaking, which is why I went with one registered by the trigger group. I paid $6900 without including the tax stamp, which I think was a fair price. I know I'm several months away from obtaining the firearm fully but I was wondering what you all do for ammunition. It seems like the CMP doesn't have much for cheap bulk ammo anymore. I know with it being a straight cased hull ammo is probably best reloaded. Is there a particular brand which is best for loading? As I'm new to this realm of firearms all tips and advice are greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

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Jeff,

 

Welcome to the board!

 

An M1 Carbine was my first rifle, and the first caliber I started reloading 30 years ago. The cases require lubricating, unless someone makes a carbide die, which is very possible at this point. I used Bonanza .30 Carbine dies. I don't recall any reloading issues, though it's been many years since I've reloaded this caliber. My cases were a mix of USGI and Remington.

 

Don't know if this helps at all, but it's my $.02...

 

David Albert

dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

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Hi Jeff,

The most important thing to remember when loading carbine ammo is to measure each case after resizing and trim when necessary.

So a dial caliper and case trimmer should be high on your list. Failure to trim can result in a bolt failing to lock, but firing. Receiver damage will result.

Any commercial or US military cases will work fine.

A year ago I was experimenting with a medium powered load so I could shoot the carbine on steel plates without damaging them. I used a 110 gr Berry plated bullet and 7 gr Unique. Velocity 1600 FPS . I fired 60 shots with one failure to feed.

If such a load works in your M2 it would be easy on both the barrel and receiver.

Since the trigger group is the registered part, there is no reason why the seller can't send everything except the registered part. This way you can buy a M1 part to replace the registered part and shoot the gun while you wait for the transfer to go thru.

I'm sure you'll have a great time.

Jim C

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Hi Jeff - I have several M1s and 2 M2s. One Winchester and one Inland. I reload on a Dillon 650 for the carbine. Several companies make carbide dies . RCBS and Dillon both carry them. Buy one. After using both, I would recommend the Dillon dies as they are a little better engineered. You will see why after using them . As noted above the case is straight walled, and even with carbide dies I lube the cases. No issues, I just run the finished ammo through the case vibrator for a bit and they come out all nice and clean. Look at your loads though, and TEST them in the gun. I have a bunch of ammo factory that was made to spec, sized and tested in a carbine. But it will not cycle my inland M2 hard enough to reload a round. I worked up a little hotter load with FMJ 110 gr bullets that works great. The down side is carbine brass is spendy right now.

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M1 carbine is NOT a straight walled case , it is a taper case . As such you must lube the case even in a carbide die , but only a light coat is needed. The case also streaches a lot due to the taper , so triming after every use is wise due to the taper and headspacing issues. I use RCBS carbide dies and I have a little " wasp waist " effect below the bullet , no way will a bullet drop deeper .

Chris

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be careful in vibroing loaded rounds. It ca break down the powder inside the case and cause pressure problems.

Best to use a lube that wipes off easily, Reloading is not meant to be fast for some ammo. You need to check

case length AFTER sizing anyway. Take your time and do it right.

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Hi Jeff,

 

I use a Dillon 550 press to load my .30 carbine using the RCBS carbide dies that MG08 referenced. I would recommend sticking with jacketed bullets to avoid leading the bore. That can be a nasty mess with cast bullets. Stick with published loading data and avoid hotrodding your ammo, you don'y want to damage anything needlessly. M2s can be great fun. Listen to Chris. I've read tons of his posts and he has good information. No, I don't owe him money, I usually listen and keep my mouth shut...... jh

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43 Willys Congrats !!! I just bought bought one myself, now the wait, I have a semi now but had to have an M2. I went with the registered kit too, a freind just got his last fall, and we have shot it a bunch and it's alot of fun, { beware of fast muzzel rise } he is a member here, and has had good luck reloading. I'll send the link so he can chime in. As said case lengh is critical....

 

Best

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Thanks a lot for the replies everyone!!! I didn't expect such a large response and I really appreciate all the tips you all have offered. I have a Dillon 550b so I'll go ahead and order the Dillon carbide dies as MG08 mentioned.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Guys,

 

Is a $100 bucks a decent price for a USGI muzzle brake? Do you have to find them on the auction sites or is there anyone selling USGI ones still?

 

As far as 30 round magazines go I've read that it's best to stay with the USGI ones. What would y'all say is the going price per mag? $40-$50?

 

Thanks,

 

Jeff

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Jeff,

I have a bunch of really nice US GI 30 rd mags that are stamped SEY, which stands for Seymour. I have both the solid back and the welded back.

I want $100.00 for the solid back and $75.00 for the welded back. Plus shipping.

If your interested send me a PM.

Jim C

Edited by jim c 351
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