Ready to go! Receiver almost done; have my IO SA kit in hand but

[Dborns]

In the last few weeks, I've put the receiver together and just have to weld the upper to the lower. I want to make sure everything is working well before I do that though.

 

Here's the IO kit:

 

The first thing I noticed is that with the hammer fully depressed against the bolt, the firing pin is still just a hair inside the bolt, and won't strike the primer. The directions call for adjusting the recoil and long hammer springs, but nothing about having to shorten the small hammer spring. That's the only way I can see that the firing pin will protrude enough to strike the hammer. Here's a pic with the hammer fully depressed against the bolt-

 

 

[Dborns]

Also, I like the look of this as a rifle more than the pistol, but that darn 922r rule goes into effect for that.... Is there anything else besides the items in the IO kit that I can replace to be compliant? Or do those parts along with the IO barrel extension all cover my parts count?

 

If they do, I need to figure out how to repair my rifle stock. Things were a little tight when I was trying it on, and the small bolt broke off the stock. I tried welding a rounded off bolt back onto the back of the stock, but couldn't get a good weld in there. I can't drill a through hole due to the rib on the front side of the stock frame. Any suggestions?

[MG08]

So how does this differ from the real Full auto STEN receiver ? do they make them dimensionally different ? Bolt under sized, tube over sized ?

[Dborns]

The receiver is also from Indianapolis Ordinance. It is machined so that it cant take a full auto bolt.

 

The SA Kit is an undersized bolt with a firing pin and hammer setup, allowing for a closed bolt gun.

 

I'm holding off on welding the barrel extension on until I hear back from anyone whether I am good with 922r counting my barrel, barrel extension, and the IO kit.

Edited December 23, 2016 by Dborns

[StooperZero]

if you used the IO kit

Receiver

barrel ext.

bolt

striker

 

just buy their US made disconnector and you should only be at 8 foreign parts.

 

 

 

 

 

as for the stock, if you wire wheel an old one you can see they are more brazed together than welded. might as well buy a new one. OR completely grind away the area where the lug was and start over.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

you might not be able to manipulate the striker pushing the firing pin forward. since it's somewhat captured by the spring it needs the inertia of the striker hitting it to fully send it forward ( this prevents dumb stuff like slam fires) . ** I just tried it in my IO MKIII and no matter what I cant press it forward BUT the falling striker can.

Edited December 24, 2016 by StooperZero

[Dborns]

All great info, thank you.

 

I checked IO for the US made disconnector, and will order one this week. Thanks for clearing up the 922r parts count.

 

I worked on the stock a little more last night, and we'll see if it holds up during firing. There's a shallow hole on the back that I drilled out to accept a bolt that I cut down. I ground the head to fit the slot in the receiver, then kept grinding down the cut end until it slid into the hole and still slid up into the receiver slot. I then welded the heck out of it, and ground everything off until it slid up into the slot. Again, we'll see how it lasts after shooting.

 

Good to know about the firing pin and bolt, and that I didn't cut the spring down before asking.

 

I'm going to tack the upper in a few spots until I run a few rounds through it to see how everything's working.

 

I know the directions stated the springs will loosen up some during break in, but I bet I'll be taking a little more off of them. It's pretty hard to pull back and cock, so I'm wondering if the recoil will be strong enough to reset the hammer.

[Dborns]

All great info, thank you.

 

I checked IO for the US made disconnector, and will order one this week. Thanks for clearing up the 922r parts count.

 

I worked on the stock a little more last night, and we'll see if it holds up during firing. There's a shallow hole on the back that I drilled out to accept a bolt that I cut down. I ground the head to fit the slot in the receiver, then kept grinding down the cut end until it slid into the hole and still slid up into the receiver slot. I then welded the heck out of it, and ground everything off until it slid up into the slot. Again, we'll see how it lasts after shooting.

 

Good to know about the firing pin and bolt, and that I didn't cut the spring down before asking.

 

I'm going to tack the upper in a few spots until I run a few rounds through it to see how everything's working.

 

I know the directions stated the springs will loosen up some during break in, but I bet I'll be taking a little more off of them. It's pretty hard to pull back and cock, so I'm wondering if the recoil will be strong enough to reset the hammer.

[TSMGguy]

The firing pin may seem short, but the design is probably such that once it's struck by the hammer it'll have more than enough inertia to strike the primer.

[StooperZero]

so I'm wondering if the recoil will be strong enough to reset the hammer.

 

 

 

take a good pair of snips with you and cut 1 coil at a time.

[m3bobby]

I agree with ^^^, it may appear short but I bet the inertia from the hammer is more than enough. There are lots of guns set up this way. Ref fixing the stock, there was a repair procedure for a loose/lost stud. I'll write it up at some point.

[Dborns]

Thank you for the help. I'm hoping to shoot this Monday.

[Dborns]

I had a chance to shoot it, and had a few initial problems.

 

I had FTE on every round, but that was fixed by tapping the ejector with a small hammer. That pushed it farther into the receiver, and almost up against the bolt. It also wasn't centered in the groove on the bolt, but I used a pair of pliers to move it in place. After that I had just a couple hangup in the receiver along with the next round as it got stripped from the mag. A little more tweaking on the ejector and it'll run good.

 

I didn't have any failure to fire, or light primer strikes. All rounds fed cleanely, so the question I had on the angle of the rounds in the mag was answered. It also helped when the mag was loaded with more than one bullet.

 

It's still pretty hard to get the bolt back into the safety notch due to the spring tension. I don't plan on cutting down on the springs because the directions state the springs will loosen in time. I'm real happy with the IO SA bolt kit.

 

The day ended prematurely when the barrel extension fell off after a volley of shots.... My tack weld wasn't good enough. Even though I was at a friends rural property, I didn't want to take any chances without having the pistol grip with me, so I removed the stock and headed home. I'll hopefully get it out again this week to dial it in.

[m3bobby]

The safety notch should be quite rounded and smooth. The original STEN also liked oil, lots of oil.

[Dborns]

It's hard to get it back to the safety notch because the springs are so tight, not because of the notch itself. I don't want to shorten them because the instructions say they'll loosen up quite a bit after their broken in.

 

The only oil I had on hand was some Rem Oil, so I'll be sure to lube everything up good with CLP before I go out next time.

Edited January 1, 2017 by Dborns