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28 fail video, PLEASE HELP


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Factory ammo or handloads? If it was with handloads repeat with factory ammo. If the problem persists then:

First check your firing pin protrusion. It should be .047"-.050". If it's less than .047" you can get light strikes.

Second look at your bolt magazine interface. Are the rounds feeding cleanly or is the bolt being slowed down by hitting or rubbing on the magazine?

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Factory ammo or handloads? If it was with handloads repeat with factory ammo. If the problem persists then:

First check your firing pin protrusion. It should be .047"-.050". If it's less than .047" you can get light strikes.

Second look at your bolt magazine interface. Are the rounds feeding cleanly or is the bolt being slowed down by hitting or rubbing on the magazine?

 

Factory ammo. 3 different kinds performed the same. I tried another bolt and had the same results. I will see if I can measure the firing pin protrusion.

 

I believe the bolt is sliding freely with a loaded or empty magazine. I have tried several mags and 1 drum. All had the same malfunction.

Edited by My1928
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Well that is the same failure mode I get when I shoot fiochi 45 in any of my USGI Thompsons. Switch to federal or hand loads, runs like a top. Since you tried 3 different factory loads and changed bolts, I would guess your barrel chamber is not cut correctly and the ammunition is not feeding or headspacing correctly- You could try cleaning the chamber real well, chuck a rod in a drill and used steel wool just into the chamber to clean and smooth it. I suspect the correct fix is to correctly ream the chamber to Thompson specs I believe thee was a discussion here on thompson chambers recently.

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What factory ammo are you using? I have only used S&B and Blazer Brass. Never a fail.

Try cleaning the bolt and all of its parts in the ultrasonic if you have one. Lube the hell out of it when you reassembly.

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AOC West Hurley barrels can be very problematic. I noticed a big improvement when I changed to a Doug Richardson barrel (GI M1A1 barrel with fins cut to mimic the look of a 1921 Colt's). Several years later, PK performed his magic on my 1928 WH and everything continues to work flawlessly. If me, I would consider sending your WH to PK and let him install one of his new Diamond K barrels. You can change the appearance to a 21A style or keep the compensator.

 

You can also check with Dan or reconbob and see if they will fix your chamber issue. Dan is in North Iowa. Bob is in Philadelphia. A lot depends on where you live.

 

Have you checked your buffer pilot for the "S" manufacturers mark? If no mark is present, you most likely have a two-piece WH buffer pilot. These are dangerous and can separate. A GI buffer pilot is not a major expense. If you are using an old GI red or gray buffer disc, I highly recommend you change to one of PK's polyurethane discs. I believe these are under $10 apiece.

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My WH did the same thing.

Sometimes no fire, sometimes light primer hit, but no fire.
It was a problem with the Blish lock ramp, wouldn't let the bolt go fully forward.
PK redid my ramps and the problem was gone.
Take a close look at your Blish lock ramps.
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It turns out this guy is near me here in Philly and he brought the gun over

this morning. I believe Dan is correct that the gun probably has an incorrect

.45 ACP chamber as opposed to a correct Thompson SMG chamber. The

give-away was he brought some of the rounds that failed to fire and they all

had the half-moon dent on the side where they hung up going in to the chamber.

So, I believe what is happening that the cartridges are scraping on the chamber,

the friction slows the bolt down, and there is not enough energy left to get the

extractor over the rim and fire the cartridge.

 

Bob

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We had a 28 Savage doing the same thing. Changed out the extractor and she ran great. Cycling the actuator back and forth slowly by hand we could feel the bolt hanging up as it went into the chamber. It was just enough to slow the momentum of the bolt and get weak primer strikes.

Edited by lpedersen
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Is there anybody still doing repairs on the WH blish lock ramps because i have 2 that you can see wear with the naked eye and they sometimes do the same thing.

I would like to get mine redone.

Eric

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My1928,

It is very fortunate you live close to reconbob. I assume he will correct your chamber issues. Let us know if that helps or corrects the problem with your 1928 West Hurley.

 

Normal1959,

Out of spec Blish lock slots are just one of many problems with the 1928 West Hurley guns. Some guns are worse than others but from what I have read on the this forum, all appear to need attention. Remember, these guns were manufactured to compete at the bottom of the Thompson submachine gun market with an initial retail price of around $400.

 

Long time Board member PK. at Diamond K Companies in Delta, Colorado does repair the Blish lock slots but only as part of his complete re-manufacture of the Thompson gun. When PK. is finished, you have a brand new gun. Unfortunately, he is backed up for the next 4 or 5 years and not accepting any more customers on his waiting list. I have heard that John Andrewski repairs the Blish lock slots but no one has ever posted any pictures of his work. I do believe Andrewski can make a WH gun beautiful but I doubt he puts one back in proper specifications like PK. I am open minded; show me some of his work.

 

Dan Block, deerslayer on this forum, seems to be able to make all of Ruben Mendiola's West Hurley guns function during his inspect and repair process. If you have a problem gun, you could reach out to Dan via this forum. reconbob, as mentioned above, can certainly repair chamber issues or install a new barrel. That may be the short term fix that is initially required. I always recommend a GI buffer pilot, one of PK's polyurethane buffer discs, a GI actuator and new GI recoil spring as the starting point for any work performed on a 1928 West Hurley.

 

EDIT: added John - Thanks StrangeRanger

Edited by TD.
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Slow the video down to .25 speed. I think you will find more then one issue.

 

 

 

Please tell us what we should be looking for at the lower speed.

Look as though it is also short stroking, bolt handle is only going back half way. Just before every failure to fire.

 

I'd try a good chamber and barrel cleaning, check recoil spring for kinks and generously lube.

Edited by Paladin601
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