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1. You can ask Deerslayer who I believe is a gunsmith who specializes in Thompsons.

2. You can do it yourself. First go to AIG "American Institute of Gunsmithing" and buy their

Thompson Armourers DVD which is excellent. That should give you enough knowledge to be able

to know how to put them in yourself. But, quite frankly, if you are able to do a field disassembly including

taking out the present springs and bolt then you SHOULD be able to put the EZ springs in yourself. Hope

that helps.

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I agree with above the EZ springs are not hard to install. If your gun has had some rounds thru it you should be ok. I don't know who has the springs for sale at this time.

 

Frank

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1. You can ask Deerslayer who I believe is a gunsmith who specializes in Thompsons.

2. You can do it yourself. First go to AIG "American Institute of Gunsmithing" and buy their

Thompson Armourers DVD which is excellent. That should give you enough knowledge to be able

to know how to put them in yourself. But, quite frankly, if you are able to do a field disassembly including

taking out the present springs and bolt then you SHOULD be able to put the EZ springs in yourself. Hope

that helps.

I just got the AIG "American Institute of Gunsmithing" and it is fantastic, answered all my questions!

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Glad we could help brother! Let us know how the springs work out. Would like

to know if it is worth it myself. But quite frankly if you rack back the bolt

enough it loosens up a bit anyway. Before that it used to leave my skin a

little raw.

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Yes, if you have the skill to field strip your gun - remove the trigger frame and take

the bolt out of the receiver - then you have the ability to change the springs. You just

reassemble using the replacement springs. The urethane butfer slides onto the recoil

spring guides with the "F" facing the bolt. You may have to trim the buffer a little with

a razor knife to get it to fit in the receiver.

 

Bob

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  • 2 weeks later...

Went to the range today and had a FTF, I suspect it is the ez pull springs.....I know its not the ammo......puzzling...

It is my understanding that this was a possibility. Was the primer even dented a little? More details brother, give

us some details to consider. :popcorn:

Edited by T Hound
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I received my EZ Pull springs from ReconBob today. I just installed them and it makes a huge difference. I notice that the end of the hammer spring pilot no longer sticks out of the back of the receiver, but us slightly recessed now. I guess that makes sense, since the kit added the buffer inside and it holds the pilot further into the receiver. Going to shoot it tomorrow and see how it goes.

 

Bill

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I received my EZ Pull springs from ReconBob today. I just installed them and it makes a huge difference. I notice that the end of the hammer spring pilot no longer sticks out of the back of the receiver, but us slightly recessed now. I guess that makes sense, since the kit added the buffer inside and it holds the pilot further into the receiver. Going to shoot it tomorrow and see how it goes.

 

Bill

 

If you get any FTF's make a note of the conditions such as the whether the primer is dented, etc. etc. then let us know.

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Factory ammo or handload? Bad primer or no powder charge? Stuff happens. Disassemble suspect round and see.

 

Definitely not a good idea to disassemble the round. The primers are less stable.

 

If the primer was obvously struck, as opposed to a very light dent, but the round did not fire then it wasn't the springs, it was the round. On a ftf you should always wait for about a minute to make sure the round is not delayed. Then

remove it.

Edited by T Hound
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The edges of a Kahr firing pin could be used as a reasonable file substitute and they should be smoothed down before installing springs. On a newish gun you can take the bolt apart and polish the firing pin edges and their related bearing surfaces inside the bolt, or shoot it a few hundred times with original gorilla springs to smooth the relevant surfaces down.... If you hand cycle the bolt slowly and it feels like you left the gun in the sandbox, then they need smoothing. I had one gun that would actually just stay about halfway open if you slowly closed the bolt (from these friction forces)..
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The edges of a Kahr firing pin could be used as a reasonable file substitute and they should be smoothed down before installing springs. On a newish gun you can take the bolt apart and polish the firing pin edges and their related bearing surfaces inside the bolt, or shoot it a few hundred times with original gorilla springs to smooth the relevant surfaces down.... If you hand cycle the bolt slowly and it feels like you left the gun in the sandbox, then they need smoothing. I had one gun that would actually just stay about halfway open if you slowly closed the bolt (from these friction forces)..

 

I will try that for sure, thanks for the advice.....

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I fired my 1927 A1 with the EZ pull springs the other day. The only problem I had was a misfeed of the last two rounds from one of my XX mags. The other XX and the XXX fired all rounds, but the bolt did not lock back when empty. I was firing reloads with 230gr FMJ above 5.3gr of Universal. I will try the offending mag with factory rounds the next time I take it to the range.

 

Also, the gun is still new with only a couple hundred rounds through it. I am hoping for it to improve with time.

 

The new springs did make firing the gun more enjoyable since the bolt was much easier to cycle manually.

 

Don,

Should I put the 'gorilla springs' back in for a while during break in?

 

Thanks

Bill

 

Edit: Changed 5.7gr Universal to 5.3gr

Edited by orrwdd
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The other XX and the XXX fired all rounds, but the bolt did not lock back when empty. I was firing reloads with 230gr FMJ above 5.3gr of Universal. I will try the offending mag with factory rounds the next time I take it to the range.

 

Bill,

 

The bolt not holding open can be caused by a number of reasons. If the mag fit is sloppy it can cause the problem. To troubleshoot the problem take off the receiver and using just the trigger frame insert the mag with rounds in it. Start stripping off rounds from the mag by hand and watch the pawl (on right side of slot). With one round in the mag the pawl should be below the surface of the trigger frame. When you strip the last round the pawl should extend above the surface of the trigger frame. The tab on the magazine activates the trip (the lever that extends into the mag slot). It pushes down on the pawl causing the other end of the pawl to extend above the trigger frame base and lock the bolt back in the open position. Kahr uses a very weak spring to activate the pawl so check to be sure there is no binding in the trip or pawl. Try the operation by pushing the mag up and then pulling down so you can tell if it is the location or fit of the mag lock hole that is causing the problem. Another source of the problem, though highly unlikely, is that the slot in the bolt for the pawl is to short.

 

If the reloads are too weak for the bolt to hit the buffer and return then the bolt may not be going back far enough to catch the pawl but just far enough to cycle the gun if that is possible. Maybe be a possibilty, if everything above checks out. FMJ factory loads should sort this out.

 

Good Luck,

 

Joe

Edited by Joe H
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Factory ammo or handload? Bad primer or no powder charge? Stuff happens. Disassemble suspect round and see.

 

Definitely not a good idea to disassemble the round. The primers are less stable.

 

If the primer was obvously struck, as opposed to a very light dent, but the round did not fire then it wasn't the springs, it was the round. On a ftf you should always wait for about a minute to make sure the round is not delayed. Then

remove it.

C'mon, anyone that handloads has an 'eraser', I mean an inertia bullet puller. A few taps and the round comes apart. Easy to see what the issue is then. If there is one.

Chief

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I have one, but I still disagree. That is not safe given the nature of primer explosives. Let me

remind you that there are STILL World War 2 bombs going off even to this day. And there

are bomb laden wrecks, like sunken ships, that are left alone due to the bombs. But the

risk is yours. With a dented in primer that has not exploded the increased pressure could

be a hair trigger at that point or it could be that it was a defective primer to begin with meaning it

wouldn't explode if you crushed it with a hammer blow.

Edited by T Hound
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  • 4 weeks later...
i still have the original springs in my M1. i dont plan on changing them. i leave the bolt in the locked position for a month and i do it once a month now for like a week. they do loosen up.
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  • 1 month later...

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