New 1927-A1 Owner Looking for Advice

[apsanford]

I bought a used 1927-A1 Chicago Typewriter, Son and I have been wanted to get a pair, I just sprung for a used one I stumbled on at Gander Mtn, having a store Grand Opening. It appears to be a gun originally purchased a year ago. I'm new with these, I read many issues with these, and some may be operator issues, and looking for advise with do's and don'ts. Where is a good place to get ammo, as these drive 45 ACP's like water on a hot summer day?

I have a 30 round stick,& 50 rd drum.

Test fired my first time 20 rounds flawlessly, smooth and nearly no recoil, it's heavy but feels good.

My warranty will expire in Aug, so what should I look out for?

[ElCid79]

Well, if you have put 20 through it without problem, your off to a good start. Keep an eye on the extractor, those tend to come out of their tracks and will jam the gun up. ONLY USE BRASS CASED AMMO, keep the gun clean, and properly lubricated. There is a ton of friction surfaces on this thing. How much did you get it for? (have you figured out how to use the drum yet?) Read the manual very carefully with that drum, it is easy to mess up... 9 - 11 clicks, does not really equal 9-11 clicks. There are (what I call) soft clicks, and hard clicks. You can hear / feel the hard clicks much more obviously than the soft ones. you need 9-11 HARD clicks. I would try to put about 200-500 rounds through it BEFORE your warranty is up, just to be on the safe side.....

Edited April 29, 2013 by ElCid79

[ElCid79]

Oh yeah, and everything I have read says that it tends to be a bad idea to load partial drums.... I am not 100% sure as to why, being that the mechanics are very simple, and if you think about it for a second or two you can easily partially load a drum so that it functions properly. With that said, I imagine it is because people have done it wrong, and caused damage to the springs. But, if you intend to shoot less than 50 in a row, the stick is WAY easier anyways.

[fxdrider]

Not only Brass-cased ammo, as ElCid79 said, but even more specifically - as the Kahr manual states: "For proper functioning in Auto Ordnance long guns we recommend the use of brass case 230 grain .45 ACP ball ammunition." This is the ammo the gun was designed for and most of them seem pretty finicky about anything else, such as semi-wadcutters, hollow-points, conical, etc. Occasionally, you'll find one that doesn't mind the other bullet types, but in my experience they are the exception rather than the rule. I bought mine back in 1992, and it gave me fits at first with jams. After reading the owners manual (imagine that!), I noticed the passage that says "For proper function we DO NOT recommend the use of the following types of ammunition: Hollow-points, semi-wadcutters, and reloads." I was trying to run semi-wadcutter reloads and the gun would have NONE of it. I started running the recommended 230 gr. FMJ (Ball) ammo and she runs flawlessly now.

[apsanford]

THANK YOU! Very helpful advise! Being it was used, I really do not know how many rounds was run through it before me. The cost and availability of the 45ACP here in Michigan makes playing difficult. It needed cleaning, so that will be the next mission.

In the manual, racking it with Safety on is a No-No, this sounds like a very easy mistake, and why whould they design it this way? It appears it will damage the firing pin, so I'm only guessing the safety mechanism and the heavy springs beat on the firing pin.

I only have used the recomended ammo, only plan to. I'm hoping to get into reloading later, in all my calibers. I notice it's trying to rust in my case, already, so I must get at it right away, rub it down.

I have not used the drum at all, yet. I wanted to get familiar with the beast, so I'm using the stick for now, and looks like most troubles occur using the drum. The tip on the clicks is extremely helpful, Thanks!

Is there other seemingly innocent mistakes that can lead to damage on this weapon?

[ElCid79]

When you go to take it apart it can be a bit tricky. If you follow the instructions in the book it will take your right through the field stripping. BE VERY CAREFUL with that safety. I have read horror stories about the gun getting jammed terribly bad by racking the slide with the safety on. Locked up the whole thing. I just leave my safety off at all times. I am not a huge fan of safeties anyways.

[ElCid79]

Oh, did your come with a 3rd hand device for the drum, its a small piece of metal, perhaps about 2 inches or so, that fits in the magazine well. If not, order one BEFORE trying the drum, you will thank me. Oh yeah, if you don't mind how much did you pay for your setup?

Edited April 30, 2013 by ElCid79

[WeaponsSgt]

THANK YOU! Very helpful advise! Being it was used, I really do not know how many rounds was run through it before me. The cost and availability of the 45ACP here in Michigan makes playing difficult. It needed cleaning, so that will be the next mission.

In the manual, racking it with Safety on is a No-No, this sounds like a very easy mistake, and why whould they design it this way? It appears it will damage the firing pin, so I'm only guessing the safety mechanism and the heavy springs beat on the firing pin.

I only have used the recomended ammo, only plan to. I'm hoping to get into reloading later, in all my calibers. I notice it's trying to rust in my case, already, so I must get at it right away, rub it down.

I have not used the drum at all, yet. I wanted to get familiar with the beast, so I'm using the stick for now, and looks like most troubles occur using the drum. The tip on the clicks is extremely helpful, Thanks!

Is there other seemingly innocent mistakes that can lead to damage on this weapon?

 

 

I noticed that you store your Tommy in the foam case? DON'T DO THAT WITH ANY WEAPON. That foam is a BIG moisture MAGNET. i have made that mistake once. lets just say i ruined a 800 dollar gun. i was pissed.

 

Another thing. the Tommy's like to run wet. i use Mobil 1 10w30. a ordinary Rem oil is to light in my opinion.

[apsanford]

Great advise, and I did notice after a couple days, light rust formed on my 50 rd drum.....then on the reciever. I need to find something new for storgae....

[apsanford]

Oh, did your come with a 3rd hand device for the drum, its a small piece of metal, perhaps about 2 inches or so, that fits in the magazine well. If not, order one BEFORE trying the drum, you will thank me. Oh yeah, if you don't mind how much did you pay for your setup?

No 3rd hand came with it, but got one from the Kahr website. As I read up on this, I knew I better have one before using the drum. I got it for $1299 at a Gander Mtn Grand Opening, the day before the big crowd, beating the mad house.

[apsanford]

 

THANK YOU! Very helpful advise! Being it was used, I really do not know how many rounds was run through it before me. The cost and availability of the 45ACP here in Michigan makes playing difficult. It needed cleaning, so that will be the next mission.

In the manual, racking it with Safety on is a No-No, this sounds like a very easy mistake, and why whould they design it this way? It appears it will damage the firing pin, so I'm only guessing the safety mechanism and the heavy springs beat on the firing pin.

I only have used the recomended ammo, only plan to. I'm hoping to get into reloading later, in all my calibers. I notice it's trying to rust in my case, already, so I must get at it right away, rub it down.

I have not used the drum at all, yet. I wanted to get familiar with the beast, so I'm using the stick for now, and looks like most troubles occur using the drum. The tip on the clicks is extremely helpful, Thanks!

Is there other seemingly innocent mistakes that can lead to damage on this weapon?

 

 

I noticed that you store your Tommy in the foam case? DON'T DO THAT WITH ANY WEAPON. That foam is a BIG moisture MAGNET. i have made that mistake once. lets just say i ruined a 800 dollar gun. i was pissed.

 

Another thing. the Tommy's like to run wet. i use Mobil 1 10w30. a ordinary Rem oil is to light in my opinion.

I use Mobil 1 so great advise, I will use that lube. I agree Rem oil is a bit light and lacks durability.

[fxdrider]

I got it for $1299 at a Gander Mtn Grand Opening, the day before the big crowd, beating the mad house.

 

Not a bad price at all. Enjoy!

[WW2Collector39-45]

While we are on the subject of lubrication in tommies has anyone ever used grease in them? Ive got a big can of artillery/axel grease just sitting around needing to be used.

Thanks Adam

[Gio]

WW2Collector39-45,

 

I would not recommend axel grease. I use a grease from Brownells that is a gun grease. I use it very sparingly and I do clean my guns after every shooting. I have never had a problem and don't get the wear factor.

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

Frank

[emmagee1917]

There is an old adage...." if it rotates , oil it , if it slides , grease it ".

I use Hoppes oil on everthing Thompson except the areas the bolt slides in. USGI M1 garand grease in the bolt pocket / trigger frame deck.

Chris

[Gunslinger]

Not sure if this is common with Thompson drums or not but I have had issues with my drum when each compartment of the drum isn't full. It will jam if I loaded, say, 47 rounds as one of the compartments wouldn't be filled completely.

 

Maybe someone with more experience could chime in and provide a more educated opinion on whether this is a common issue or not.

 

I will say that you should extremely careful if you remove the cover of a drum that is wound up and has tension on the spring.

 

Enjoy your new Thompson. They're a lot of fun and very cool!

[apsanford]

 

THANK YOU! Very helpful advise! Being it was used, I really do not know how many rounds was run through it before me. The cost and availability of the 45ACP here in Michigan makes playing difficult. It needed cleaning, so that will be the next mission.

In the manual, racking it with Safety on is a No-No, this sounds like a very easy mistake, and why whould they design it this way? It appears it will damage the firing pin, so I'm only guessing the safety mechanism and the heavy springs beat on the firing pin.

I only have used the recomended ammo, only plan to. I'm hoping to get into reloading later, in all my calibers. I notice it's trying to rust in my case, already, so I must get at it right away, rub it down.

I have not used the drum at all, yet. I wanted to get familiar with the beast, so I'm using the stick for now, and looks like most troubles occur using the drum. The tip on the clicks is extremely helpful, Thanks!

Is there other seemingly innocent mistakes that can lead to damage on this weapon?

 

 

I noticed that you store your Tommy in the foam case? DON'T DO THAT WITH ANY WEAPON. That foam is a BIG moisture MAGNET. i have made that mistake once. lets just say i ruined a 800 dollar gun. i was pissed.

 

Another thing. the Tommy's like to run wet. i use Mobil 1 10w30. a ordinary Rem oil is to light in my opinion.

 

I added a dessicant bag to the case after rubbing the gun down with Rem oil wipes. I have many guns in foam cases and never had a issue, I have them in a very dry area, so thatmay be why. My Tommy was in a more humid area and it did seem to draw in the moisture.

[Sgt]

Ironically, the used Kahrs seemed to work better than the new ones, at least that was my experience. In the old days, it took a while for the owner to work out the bugs. It could be the quality control has improved on the newer ones, but I've not confirmed this. I've got a lot of mods in mine, easy pull springs and buffer, bolt hold open lever, knurled actuator knob, GI Lyman sight, and detachable stock. It's a pretty firearm and a lot more fun to shoot.

[apsanford]

I had my first stove pipe today, what a pain! I cleared it, and brought it home and cleaned it. I'm not beat, and I'm sure it may need some break in time, being I got it used, I put about 20 rounds through it before the first stove pipe, jammed with one live round in the chamber, one jacked up to it and a spent shell jammed in the reciever. What do you guys suggest? I'm not sure how many rounds the previous owner has went through it. I only use brass, 230grain FMJ round nose ball ammo, factory loads, for now. I had a compact KelTec I sent it back to be gone over, should I send it back before the warranty expires? I suspect polish the ramp would be a good start,it looks alittle rough.

[Paladin601]

I had my first stove pipe today, what a pain! I cleared it, and brought it home and cleaned it. I'm not beat, and I'm sure it may need some break in time, being I got it used, I put about 20 rounds through it before the first stove pipe, jammed with one live round in the chamber, one jacked up to it and a spent shell jammed in the reciever. What do you guys suggest? I'm not sure how many rounds the previous owner has went through it. I only use brass, 230grain FMJ round nose ball ammo, factory loads, for now. I had a compact KelTec I sent it back to be gone over, should I send it back before the warranty expires? I suspect polish the ramp would be a good start,it looks alittle rough.

 

What magazine type were you using? It has been my experience with semi auto that "stove pipes" are mainly caused by 2 things. 1. Magazines and 2. not a firm enough hold on the firearm, (with pistols it is called "limp wrist"). Clean the mag ( most people never do this) and get a good firm hold on the firearm

[apsanford]

 

I had my first stove pipe today, what a pain! I cleared it, and brought it home and cleaned it. I'm not beat, and I'm sure it may need some break in time, being I got it used, I put about 20 rounds through it before the first stove pipe, jammed with one live round in the chamber, one jacked up to it and a spent shell jammed in the reciever. What do you guys suggest? I'm not sure how many rounds the previous owner has went through it. I only use brass, 230grain FMJ round nose ball ammo, factory loads, for now. I had a compact KelTec I sent it back to be gone over, should I send it back before the warranty expires? I suspect polish the ramp would be a good start,it looks alittle rough.

 

What magazine type were you using? It has been my experience with semi auto that "stove pipes" are mainly caused by 2 things. 1. Magazines and 2. not a firm enough hold on the firearm, (with pistols it is called "limp wrist"). Clean the mag ( most people never do this) and get a good firm hold on the firearm

Using the magazine 30 rd stick, not full, that came with the gun. Gun was held well, I had a KelTec P40 that was a limp wrister! I know that one, and it had to go back to Keltec for a feed ramp polish rework, I think the ramp is too rough on my Tommy also. Magazine stays snug. I sold the Keltec as it was way too snappy, and went to a Glock, much more smoother action, but you pay for it.

I plan to send the Tommy back to Kahr, I have a RMA # and they offered, so I will see how they do and report. I think some fine tuning is all it needs. There is nearly no recoil, so I don't see "limp wrist" happening grabbing two pistol grips and really no recoil with a Tommy.

[Paladin601]

I think that is a good decision, I have heard that when they return they shoot nice.

[apsanford]

_{Sent it back for a tune up, They offered to work on it under warranty, so why not? Having the factory check it closely and a factory smith on it, can only be a benefit. I hope I get it back quickly and I'll advise. They appear eager to get it back and work on it.}

[apsanford]

Update: Sent it back, Kahr did warranty gunsmithing and sent it back in a flash. Just adjusted the extractor from any info provided, and has fired flawless since.

The sending in was worth it and having them do a personal going over gives piece of mind. I registered the warranty, and appears the original owner never registered it.

My favorite firearm.

Needs tender loving care, so treat it like crap and it will be crap, treat it like your in love with it, and it will love you back.

[apsanford]