Just purchased an Auto-Ordnance "Tanker" Thompson New in the b

[1911tex]

Beautiful gun!!! Proud of it. Took it out and shot 100 rounds of my 15 year old Olin USA white box 230gr. hardball brass case ammo (assuming this is Winchester old cheap ammo). That old USA stuff is DIRTY!

 

Not one FTF, FTE, all chamber loaded perfectly. Last round always locked the bolt back. Nary a hiccup using the 20 round magazine (have not tried the 30 round). Indoor range 15 and 30 yards. Using a bench rest, dead center horizontally, 1" low at 15, 1.25" low at 30. Groups were very tight, almost one large rough hole; amazing...except for the first magazine load...groups were 3 to 4 inches due to the long two stage trigger which had me bamboozled...plus the stock butt kept slipping down on my shoulder with every fired shot. I had a piece of adhesive backed velcro (rough side, not the soft loop side)...stuck that on the steel butt plate and the rest of the shots as indicated above. That is one smooth slippery butt plate!

 

Like everyone mentioned...the bolt played heck to cycle by hand..so I whipped up a 24" piece of 3/8" rope, bowline loop on one end for the bolt handle, large knot on the other to stop a 6" piece of old 1/2" rubber hose that I could grab hold of and pull the bolt rearward to release when magazine is out for disassembly cleaning the bugger and locking back the bolt afterwards for inserting a magazine. No longer a problem. Barring any future ammo problems, the bolt will alway stay locked back except when releasing a new magazine round or for cleaning.

 

After reading this terrific forum, I noted that the extractor and ramp were problematic due to not being polished; however this rifle had obviously been polished by Kahr before shipment. Maybe they have been reading this forum? Happy to see that!

 

Questions:

1) I have several 100 rd. boxes of 2 year old Winchester labeled 230gr. hard ball white boxes...any experience with these? Hopefully not as dirty as the Old USA labeled stuff.

 

2) When bench resting using 2 large 15# bean bags vertically to keep the mag clear off the table...the only way I could rest the rifle was on the horizontal wood fore grip. Any suggestions there?

 

3) Is there a better suggestion than using adhesive backed rough side velcro to better a solid stock butt to shoulder to keep the stock from slipping down?

 

4) Stock seems a little long...any suggestions there?

 

5) Shooting an inch or so low up to 30 yards...perhaps carefully filing the front sight down a little at a time, then shooting a group? I noted that the rear sight was screwed in, not riveted...I checked and they were tight after my 100 rounds.

 

6) Is it ok to dry fire without a dummy cartridge in this rifle? Need practice using this trigger.

 

Thank you very much for your support on this incredible forum!!

[Bayrain]

1) Yes and no, I've used some old Winchester stuff on my 1911 but not on my Thompson

 

2) I would just say rest the rifle sideways? It's not balancable like a 20round 20inch AR15, especially with that bolt coming out one side.

 

3) Canvas or Cloth WW2 GI sling works great

 

4) You can try for a 1928 Stock conversion as it's a little shorter but they don't make the kits and costs and arm and a leg to do so.

 

5) I'd say don't really grind or filing away at the weapon as you'll wear away the protective parkization or bluing and it will eventually be bare rusted metal, I'd say just adjust for accuracy out of a modern day reproduction of a WWII .45 Auto SMG rifle

 

6) With the Tanker I think it would be fine with dry firing on a dummy round.

[deerslayer]

3 and 4, have me make you a new shorter straighter buttstock.

 

6). Don't dry fire this gun. The firing pin is fragile. When they break it can completely jam up the action.

 

Get ezpull spring kit.

 

Dan

[1911tex]

Thank you both for your suggestions! Most helpful. Dan I will send you a message this week.

Larry

[1911tex]

Not the last question...but pretty close:

 

Between range sessions and after cleaning...do you leave the action open; i.e., bolt back, or do you bolt forward and release firing pin? As per above replies, I will not dry fire without a dummy round.

[deerslayer]

If you leave the bolt to compress the springs back you can take a few pounds off the cocking force. But otherwise forward is normal

[1911tex]

Thank you Dan. A friend of mine showed me a better way to release the firing pin (instead of firing into a dummy round)....hold trigger back while slowly releasing the bolt. No slam bang of firing pin. Is this correct?

[TennesseeTimmy]

Pictures! Nothing is real without pictures! Show it off, man!

 

Winchester WB works fine in mine. As does Sellier & Bellot.

 

Mr. Block is an artist when it comes to Thompson wood. He can do a lot of other cool sh1t to improve both looks and performance, and is really great to deal with.

 

You won’t regret doing some sort of ez pull springs. Makes it much more fun.

 

Enjoy it! Timmy.

[68coupe]

As to the springs kit, try

 

https://www.howellarms.com/worldwar2/reduced-pull-spring-kit-for-semiautomatic-thompson

 

HTH, Karl

[Baltimoreed11754]

Dan is indeed the Thompson man. He sbr’ed mine, I built the case.

Edited November 7, 2021 by Baltimoreed11754

[1911tex]

Timmy if its pictures you want...when I get time from training my QH to do all the right things...I shall be back!

Thank you fellas for your kind reply !!

Edited November 10, 2021 by 1911tex

[ReelDuel]

I just picked up one the other day. 100rnd drum with it.