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Who (other Than Paul Hayes) Fixes Reisings?


Lumpy223
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I had Paul weld in a new ejector for me last year but it broke again. Because Paul is not available, I need to locate a new smith who knows their poop when it comes to a Reising.

 

My gun has been down for the last few months and we all know a busted machine gun makes a pretty expensive paperweight. I miss shooting my buzz gun.

 

So......anybody know of a smith who can replace a broken ejector that was welded in?

 

Thanks.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hey Lumpy,

 

did you find someone to fix your ejector? i tried one place who fixes reisings (not listed in this post) and they had never done an ejector before. they told me to take a rod, line it up with the ejector, and try hitting it out. i'm like "HELL no!". So i am still trying to find someone competent to fix my ejector.

 

Craig

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I have been looking at the ejector problem

the ejector shank on reisings is swaged on the outside then

filed off

 

If your ejector is not tack welded on the outside of the recvr

some are some are not

and the ejector bar has completly broken off

 

sometimes It can be knocked out with a hardened punch

from the inside

I have talked to 2 people so far who were able to do this

 

am looking at designing a drill jig for the welded ones

 

most of the brakege problems I have heard involve the

bar snapping off completly anyone have anything different happen??

 

mike

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I haven't taken the time to look into this yet so my gun is still down. Hunting season is in full swing here and i have a new woman in my life so between the two of them, i have been a bit busy.

 

Maybe once I kill a few more ducks and a deer or two I can finally look to get this gun repaired again.

 

The flat piece broke completely off my gun and it was welded in when Paul fixed it the first time. Mine will need to have the weld removed (Dremel?) before the post can be removed. The next repair is probably gonna ugly the gun up a bit due to weld grinding and such but at least it will be shootable again.

 

Owning this expensive a paperweight sucks.

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i have an email into a smith, who had been looking for a reising ejector for a customers gun last december. i guess he does good work. i emailed him to see if he did the work and how it turned out and that is he was good at it, there is a void that needs to be filled!

 

craig

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  • 2 weeks later...

i spoke with someone at Darnells a few months ago. he said they had never replaced an ejector on a reising before. he said i should take a metal rod of some sort and try and pound the ejector out. no offense, but i'm not going to start hitting a metal rod in my receiver hoping the ejector will come out. so i said thanks and kept looking.

 

if an experienced smith uses a metal rod to remove the ejector, more power to them, but i don't trust myself to do that to my gun. it didn't sound like they were keen on trying to replace the ejector.

 

maybe thats changed or i spoke with the wrong person.

 

Craig

 

troy sellars at inrange is the smith that will do it for $100.

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Craig

I was the one you talked to

You were right that I wasn't that interested in

Taking on any ejector work as I was hoping Paul would recover

And I have plenty of projects

 

I guess I didn't get across to you what I was trying to

If you could have got the extractor stub to move with a Punch

Not a rod

from the inside of the receiver it would be a lot easier to change

And any good gunsmith where you are could have fixed it

I just took one out of a demilled rec chunk the other day in that way

Studying this problem

 

But the thing that matters is why they are breaking

It wont do much good to have a new one put in as lumpy did

And have it snap right back off

 

You should have troy test the ejector shank and blade

Hardness before he installs and temper if needed

As they also act as a bolt guide

They are probably too hard maybe way to hard

 

This could be just bad quality control on H&R's part

I don't remember ever seeing one that was worn

From the bolt sliding

 

Here are other things that could possibly cause it to break

 

Misalignment of the eject hole in the recvr or improperly aligned

Ejector when installed

 

Out of spec bolt locking recess in the recvr causing the bolt

To batter the ejector

 

Ejector slot in bolt binding ejector when camming into battery

 

FWIW

It looks like the best way to remove on non welded or tack welded is to use a 5/32 or 3/16 End mill from the outside to core and then punch out

 

On The ones that have been entirely welded over it would be

Possible to go thru the ejector port with a small endmill and open

A pilot hole from the inside

 

The main thing is not to open the existing ejector hole as it is drilled

Undersized and reamed to .250- .2505 with a slight chamfer on the

outside

Should have some ejectors to hardness test soon

mike

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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thats great news! that you are looking at the ejectors and testing them.

 

if you are doing all of this research on them and working on demilled rec. to get a better handle on the ejector situation, maybe i will wait until we hear an update from you then?

 

please keep us updated here.

 

Craig

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  • 2 weeks later...
Carefull Mike or you will have all of us with sick children (Reisings) beating down your door. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif
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  • 11 years later...

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