M1 Bolt - Two Stages of Cocked

[pitfighter]

The M1 got a heavy use over the last two weeks, only with blanks, but that is my work, and that's how and why I own these firearms.

Of all the guns working the M1 was actually one of the most reliable, the actor being responsible for the two failure to feed issues we had.

 

I decided to change out the recoil spring after the shoot, as the one that came with the gun, looks like a dog's tail when it's relieving itself.

The replacement that arrived from Apex was a full five inches longer than the one we had been using. So I'm looking forward to seeing how that affects the ROF and reliability.

 

Anyway, the question I have and I've read the two books I have cover to cover, and cannot find an answer, is, why does there appear to be a two stage cocking?

The first and then another two more inches to the rear - they both seem adequate enough to fire the action, but I am interested to know what the answer is.

 

I could take photos of the two positions if my syntax is too garbled, but, hoping it's adequate.

[Chip]

Not sure about M1, but on a 1928 I believe it's a "just in case" notch to catch the bolt in the event of weak ammo, dirt, etc. If the bolt doesn't recoil far enough back to catch the main natch, prevents a possible runaway.

[1921A]

When you retract the charging knob on the M1 (and 1921/28s) the first notch is a safety notch. The second notch is the full cocked position. The design was intended to help prevent short cycling.

 

 

Edited August 30, 2020 by 1921A

[nate129]

Curious Pitfighter on the blanks you use?

 

I use a M1 for reenacting using mainly Alantic Wall as I have read about barrel erosion issues with Swansons. I set the BFA to just enough to run the action reliably. I get some fail to fires especially when the action is not well oiled, and in colder weather. I remember an event in eastern WI in November a few years back when I snuck around to get the jump on some pesky Germans. When I jumped out of the bush and pulled the trigger I got the satisfying look of surprise from the two Germans, followed by the dreaded bolt klunk, and a prompt reply from a reliable K98. I am sure my main issue is this is a Hurley (on PK's list for his expert WH upgrade), although I have read some complaints of reliability from Alantic Wall.

[pitfighter]

Curious Pitfighter on the blanks you use?

Hi Nate,

 

I have a crate of ISS Full Flash (the approx same loading as Joe Swanson I believe) .45acp so I ran that for a while, but it's just too hot for my taste, it's rough on the guns, erosion but also it just wears out the action quicker IMO and creates a more significant danger-zone ahead of the actor or stunt performer doing the firing.

 

I use the "blank only" barrels and have them tuned for 3/4 Atlantic Wall blanks, it runs very consistently and still has way more muzzle flash than a real Thompson.

I'm not really a fan of the Dick Tracy style flamethrower flashes.

 

The Atlantic Wall blanks are as loud as they needs to be, and as I noted is still one of the more reliable firearms we had working, only beaten out by the MP44 which hasn't had a notable stoppage in north of 2K rounds.

 

This shoot was in very bad conditions, a LOT of dust, and trapezium mortars were putting a layer of burned-ash and debris in the air, which quickly mixed with the carbon and oil to make a black paste in the chambers of all the guns. We also had dangerous air quality issues for the first week or so, because of the wild fires.

 

Chip and 1921a,

 

Thank you for the answers, I was sort of in that frame of mind, so thank you for confirming it.

I used the full rearward position to start the gun, but noted that the often only the first stage was reached when I retrieved a gun from an actor who hadn't finished their mag, not very common BTW.

 

Again, super impressed with Apex four day delivery, and looking forward to trying the new recoil spring, I'll start a fresh thread.