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Winchester Model 1897 Military Trench Gun


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#21 ron_brock

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Posted 24 July 2019 - 02:17 PM

Well I thought Id a bit more to the discussion. Is there a significant difference in a trench gun external barrel profile compared to the same period of sporting gun external barrel profile? Of course internal is different since the choke is machined at trench length vs a cut down sporting barrel.

Not really saying its a drop on heatshield since its not original Winchester production, however I believe their quality is better than Sarco/IMA junk Ive seen. Of course you could wait to find a loose original and pay $$$$

Ive not fitted my Ithaca one yet as I need to iron out a barrel bulge first. I may try to compare external profiles on the Ithaca as I have a near same year sporting gun as well.

My original input:
http://www.sturmgewe...yonet-assembly/

The rest of the instructions:
**** Note: if you do not have an original trench gun you will need to make modifications to your gun. *** Read the following instructions before purchasing. ****

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR BAYONET ATTACHMENT
NOTE: THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOR NON ORIGINAL TRENCH GUNS

Cut barrel to 20-1/2 inches measuring from the end of the chamber to the end of the muzzle

For Winchester 97 only, remove the clamp that holds the magazine tube and the barrel together (this clamp will no longer be used). For Winchesters only, if your magazine plug does not have a 9/32 stud on the end of it you will need to replace it with one that does in order to support your magazine tube. We sell them on our web site.

Remove the 3 securing screws from the attachment and slide the bayonet attachment on the barrel until the 9/32 stud on the end of the magazine plug goes into the hole in the rear of the leg on the attachment and the rear of the leg is flush with the face of the magazine plug. This is for Winchesters only. For Stevens and Ithaca slide the attachment on the barrel until the end of bayonet lug (round stud that the bayonet ring slides over) is even with the muzzle end of the barrel. Leaves approx. ½ inch of barrel showing.

Making sure that the leg of the bayonet attachment is lined up with the trigger guard (centered) scribe 3 marks in the bottom of the barrel by inserting a small rat tail file in each of the 3 screw mounting holes.

Remove the attachment and file each groove just enough to let the screw clear (you do this by sliding on and removing the attachment and screwing in the screw until it clears. Do this for all 3 screws. Be careful not to make the slots too deep which could weaken the barrel. The screws should clear the barrel easily without forcing when the groove is deep enough. Trying to force the screw can strip it and or damage the threads in the attachment.

Ron
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#22 Robert Henley

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Posted 24 July 2019 - 02:29 PM

You may be right but I was reading the following (underline added for emphasis):

 

 

We manufacture all reproduction parts, both walnut and steel in house on our machinery. All parts are copied from original ones and are fitted to our original guns before shipment. We do not make parts for repro guns or guns not listed on this site. We offer gunsmith services for those who wish to send their gun in for evaluation and/or repair. We only work on guns manufactured prior to 1898 (black powder) and only on those models listed on this site. We ship within ten days of receipt of payment unless otherwise specified.

 

**** Note: if you do not have an original trench gun you will need to make modifications to your gun. *** Read the following instructions before purchasing. ****

 

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR BAYONET ATTACHMENT
NOTE: THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOR NON ORIGINAL TRENCH GUNS


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#23 Robert Henley

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Posted 24 July 2019 - 02:36 PM

Thanks Ron.  By the time I replied (I got a phone call in the middle of replying) I see you had already replied with the full instructions.

 

FYI, a representative of the company did respond to my inquiry as follows:

 

"You appear to have an orig. trench gun. In order for a bayonet att. To be installed you will have to remove the ventilated barrel extension which someone added to the barrel. There should be another groove under the extension (3 grooves 1 ½ inches apart center to center). The barrel should be 20 ½ inches in length measured from the muzzle to the breach where the rim of the shell seats"

 

Robert


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