I have a Kahr TM1C that shoots way low, I have to use the top notch @ 25yds. I have found other posts with the same situation. Someone suggested that it may have to do with the longer barrel. I haven't altered the sights yet other than bending the rear back a little. I would need to remove so much of the front that I would like to try to help it out a bit in some other way if possible to reduce that amount so I don't have to re-contour it. Has anyone tried making a shim to go under the rear sight? I'm also wondering if a shim between the fore grip mount & the barrel to give a little upward pressure would help? Has anyone tried this, if so how did it work out?
Low Shooting TM1
Posted 17 March 2018 - 04:58 AM
I would first check if barrel is square to receiver. Could have bad threads in receiver not concentric to Receiver.
Lay a straight edge like a metal ruler down on top of receiver and then give it the ol hairy eyeball look and see if the barrel is aligned with receiver
Posted 17 March 2018 - 06:16 AM
Look for a gap under the straight edge right in the vicinity of the mag slot/ejection port area.
A warped receiver is going to show the barrel pointing up which will have the same effect on bullet
As too tall of front sight
mine shoots to point of aim pretty reliably but you can fit a pc of paper under the straight edge right where the ejection port is
and its a steel receiver
i highly suspect that this is where the problem lies.
especially with an aluminum receiver .
the cure will be to shim under the rear sight as you mentioned or.........................
get another receiver , preferably steel
Edited by 95mustang, 17 March 2018 - 07:01 AM.
Posted 17 March 2018 - 07:26 AM
I have the same problem - 50yd zero with the lyman ladder set for 250...... Front sight is now filed down to a nub to fix it. (M1927 deluxe)
Posted 17 March 2018 - 07:45 AM
I don't remember exactly how low, about 12 - 16". Windage is fine. Checking the first section of barrel where it's not tapered shows a drop of .026". The receiver does show a slight gap where you say, enough to see light but not enough to slide paper in, it touches @ the front @ the barrel then again in the area above the grip & another slight gap ahead of the rear sight. What do you think about a pressure shim under the barrel?
Posted 21 March 2018 - 07:08 PM
I had the exact same problem with my TM1, until I SBRed it. The problem is the longer barrel, no question about that. I think your only choices are to use as is ( which is what I did) or have one fabricated by a gunsmith / machinist with the peep near the top where the current notch is. Another option is to have the earlier "L" type fabricated with the peep near the top and this might be less expensive.
Posted 21 March 2018 - 08:23 PM
Thanks for the input. I filled in the "peep" hole which is more like a picture window & drilled a 5/32 hole @ the very top of it. That got it to 7" low. I have made a 1/4" spacer to go under the sight which should get it close. I haven't mounted it yet, having a little trouble finding 8x36 screws.
Posted 22 March 2018 - 05:07 AM
Posted 22 March 2018 - 05:14 AM
I've looked there but they are in bulk. It may come to that but I'll try a few more spots locally first.
Posted 22 March 2018 - 04:59 PM
Yes, I did but had no luck searching their sites. My comp. doesn't play well with Midway's site because I don't run Java ( & will not & they don't seem to get it or care). I found some at a gunsmith, machinist, who works on & makes parts for M2's & 3's but they are an inch long with a different type head which is ok. I need about 1/2". I'm trying to avoid having to cut them off since the gun is still under warranty & don't want to bugger the threads & give them an out. I don't have anything to chase them with.
Posted 22 March 2018 - 06:55 PM
Posted 24 March 2018 - 08:36 AM
You'll be amazed at how little metal you have to remove from the top of the front sight to effect vertical zero in a really big way. You might look at your target and think that you'd have to file too much off of the front sight to correct, but this is not true. Corrections done at the front sight always have far greater effect than those done at the rear, for both elevation and windage.
Shoot single check rounds from a rest while you're filing, and groups as you get closer to zero, and to check zero. Do a neat job with a draw file and touch up the metal with cold blue when finished. Things will look very neat indeed if done right.
Posted 24 March 2018 - 10:49 AM
Thanks, I've been thinking it would be the same effect at either end. I found a formula to get the amount to remove from the front which at this point would be : site radius 27.25 x .0012 for 25yds (.0006 for 50yds or .0003 for 100yds) = .0327 x 7 (in low) = .2289 the amount to be removed from the front site. I don't mind doing it that way but for now I don't want to alter the gun. Does that sound about right? Almost a quarter inch wouldn't leave a lot of blade so it might need some re-contouring.
Posted 24 March 2018 - 11:31 AM
1/4 inch would be way too much. Trust me, here. Just head for the range with 50 rounds, a rest, and a draw file. A 7" correction will not disfigure your front sight. I know the procedure sounds crude, but it's actually very precise.
When you're at the range, make a mark that you can easily see on the target, 7" (I think you mentioned) below the center and a bit to one side. Now rest the gun and center the sights on the bull. Note where on the front sight your mark falls. That's how much metal you'll be removing. It won't be 1/4 inch. You can make your decision from there.