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Barrel removal and replacement


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#1 stingray656667

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 02:37 PM

Is it detrimental to the integrity of the upper to heat the nose with a torch to aid in removal of a stubborn barrel?  I have a wrench but even with this device I cannot break the barrel loose.  I've seen some parts kits that have a darkened section on the nose of the receiver where it was obviously heated very hot to remove the barrel but, again, will this cause any damage, affect function or change the heat treat (if so treated) of this area?  Thank you for any replies and input.

 

                                                                                                                           stingray656667


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#2 TD.

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 04:14 PM

If me, I would contact Bob Bowers at Philadelphia Ordnance. I understand Bob is very good at removing stubborn barrels and his hourly rate is very reasonable. 


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#3 ThompsonCrazy

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 04:43 PM

Heat is OK to remove barrels from demilled stubs as close to last resort but not on a firing TSMG especially NFA. You'll loose the heat treat in the grip mount too which will cause it to be much more flexible and have to be replaced unless using with a horizontal grip with reinforcement strap..
 
Is this a transferable receiver, sample, semi, display? What type of setup are you using to clamp the barrel? What are you using on the receiver? Original finish, parkerized, other? Have you soaked the barrel threads with any chemicals?
 
Where about are you located?
 
TC

Edited by ThompsonCrazy, 04 May 2019 - 04:45 PM.

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#4 reconbob

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 06:30 PM

            I would not use a torch to try to heat a receiver - even if it is only a stub from a deactivated

gun - to be able to remove the barrel. To get the receiver hot enough to do any good would likely

damage the barrel. M1928A1 barrels are easier to "break" than M1/M1A1 barrels. I have mentioned

before that we do a lot of barrel removal and the standard routine for an M1/M1A1 is to clamp the

barrel at its thickest close to the receiver in a hydraulic press using special blocks. Then we have

a BIG adjustable wrench that we fit to the receiver right where the threads are, then we have a 

3 foot pipe to slide over the handle of the wrench and even with all of this you really have to use

a lot of force to break the barrel free. You are turning the receiver off the barrel and you can only

turn the receiver maybe 1/8 of a turn before the grip mount hits the blocks. My point being that

some of the barrels can be very tight.

I know that many have their own tricks to do this but it rises beyond the level of a standard 

workbench and vise, etc. And while all this is going on you have to flex the grip mount away

from the barrel so you don't scratch the barrel as you unscrew it.

 

Bob


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#5 Bob

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 06:54 PM

I had one that was in there really good and it was staked as well. Bob was able to get it off and install a new barrel. My wrench just laughed at it. Good luck with the swap.


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#6 Petroleum 1

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 07:55 PM

Is there some type of hardened sealant on the threads causing this?
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#7 Petroleum 1

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Posted 04 May 2019 - 07:56 PM

duplicate

Edited by Petroleum 1, 04 May 2019 - 07:56 PM.

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#8 1921A

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Posted 05 May 2019 - 10:18 AM

Send the barreled receiver to reconbob. Some years ago I let a local gunsmith talk me into replacing a barrel on a transferable M1. He hit the grip mount and split a chunk out of the receiver nose the length of the grip mount slot. That cost me dearly to have it fixed by someone who knew what he was doing and I was still left with a weld repair on what had been a very nice M1.

Note: We made a welding rod out of a ground up cut receiver and used that for the repair. After welding, milling and bead blasting, the repair was almost invisible but it reduced the value of the gun significantly.

Edited by 1921A, 05 May 2019 - 10:21 AM.

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