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WTK How to take apart Maxim Lock?


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I was going to replace my firing pin but unsure about taking Maxim lock apart? I have an old youtube video on how to take apart a Russian lock but not sure if it is the same. The first pin I tried to remove is not like on the Russian lock, I tapped on it but I do not want to beat on it until I am sure about what I am doing. See pic for the pin I am trying to remove. The other pins on the lock look like split pins with bushings but this one may not be, it is recessed and I do not know if it is meant to be removed. I would thank you for your advice.

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What is the problem with your firing pin? This is important to understand before you disassemble the lock.......

To remove the firing pin the lock must be partially disassembled.

First, there is no removable pin thorugh the hole into which you have inserted the punch. The MG08 stirrups are riveted together onto the body and are not removable from the body. Only reason to remove the stirrup is if it is damaged enough so it must be replaced or too damaged to repair while still on the body.

To disassemble: remove the split pin and collet at the top end of the lock by the sear that protrudes from the body. Tap the split pin end until it frees up and tap it out of the collet. Then push out the collet and remove the small" cap" that the collet went through. This will release the spring, but leave it for the moment. The two lifting levers are held in place by the cap and when the cap is removed the lifting levers will come off their studs. They are left and right and make note of how they are retained by the cap.

There are two split pin/collet pivots through the lock body. To remove the sear and the tumbler, tap out the split pins and then tap out the collets. The collets are a tight fit. When both are out, the sear and the tumbler can be removed. Once the sear is out, the spring can be removed.

With the above parts removed, the firing pin can be slid out of the back of the lock body by inserting a tool into the body and into the center cavity of the fring pin. It will move with resistance since the auto sear is pushing up from the bottom.

No further disassembly is required.

Reassembly is not exactly the reverse of the above. I'll explain the process when you have explained why you need to replace the firing pin. There are other issues that might appear to suggest replacement of the firing pin, but doing that will not solve the problem.....

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Thanks Bob, I was hoping you would weigh in on this. I wanted to try a different firing pin because of light strikes with the Yugo ammo I used. It did work on Romanian ammo but not Yugo ammo(hard primers probably). My other lock worked on both types of ammo. Looking at the firing pins the one in the middle is not as long, see pic. I tried to mic it(hard to do) and I get .078, .052, and .089. The .089 is my like new lock, very tight with the longest firing pin. Since I have spare locks I wanted to take apart the one that does not work, I enjoy the pure mechanics of these guns, I long as I am not doing any permanent damage. I see now that the Russian lock is really different then 08/15 lock. I will print out your directions and try again. I searched the internet and looked in the book, "The Devils Paintbrush" but do not understand what pin is what, sear pin vs lower extractor stop pin, vs cartridge detent spring pin. Thanks for your help, your my hero. Happy Trails. Buck

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From what you say, the issue does not appear to me to be the firing pin, but your firing pin spring is getting weak. The extractor holds the cartridge base closely to or in contact with the face of the extractor so firing pins can actually vary considerably in length and still ignite the primers. Since the cartridge is gripped by the extractor, it cannot move forward, even if the chamber headspace is too long.

The 1910 Russian Maxim lock springs have greater compressive strength than the German springs and are far more durable, holding their power.

If you acquire a 1910 firing pin and spring, I'll tell you how to install it. It will take care of any weak firing pin issues for any and all ammo, and if there are still problems then you at least have eliminated the spring as an issue.

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Ok, after reading your directions and finding a line drawing in "The Devils Paintbrush" and adding text to it this is where I am at, see pic. Next I will need a firing pin? I have a Russian firing pin but I know it has to be modified. Bob do you have any firing pins or know where I could find them. Thanks again.

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Edited by jamesbucklin
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That was easy, I went to look for my firing pin and right next to it was a spring? I think it came from a Russian Gunners Kit I bought years ago. Not sure if this will work or not? See Pic. Does it matter which way the pin and collet goes in the lock? One of my locks is opposite of the other two?

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Edited by jamesbucklin
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Ok, will do. I have been trying out my different parts in preparation for a shoot in Wyoming. My spare feed block has a loose spring. It does not contact the feed block like my other one. See pic. Can I just pull or push it out and rebend it?

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  • 3 years later...

I found this vdo on YouTube , shows Maxim lock disassembly and why assembly is so difficult.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gdxKaRmXrIE&list=PLYEL2nvoY6P3Y4tXmEsenzinTl70T_3yV&index=35&t=0s

 

It's only difficult for him because he doesn't have the proper tool, and it's obviously his first time working with a Maxim lock. Grind a point to a 1/4" rod to align the spring and the cap, then push it through with the pin at the end. I can assemble a hundred locks today in the time it took me to assemble my first :)

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I found this vdo on YouTube , shows Maxim lock disassembly and why assembly is so difficult.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gdxKaRmXrIE&list=PLYEL2nvoY6P3Y4tXmEsenzinTl70T_3yV&index=35&t=0s

It's only difficult for him because he doesn't have the proper tool, and it's obviously his first time working with a Maxim lock. Grind a point to a 1/4" rod to align the spring and the cap, then push it through with the pin at the end. I can assemble a hundred locks today in the time it took me to assemble my first :)

Yep, by the "book" page 343, says this "special slave punch" is needed for assembly.

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So I took mine apart. Not too bad but the firing pin may be the wrong one. "By the book" page 343 this is a 1901 commercial firing pin and not the 1889 type firing pin. See pics. Maybe too light? My plan is to replace spring and firing pin, test fire and if still not working then send to bubba for repair. I will have to wait awhile for a new spring, my spares work so, good for this summer anyway.

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So I took mine apart. Not too bad but the firing pin may be the wrong one. "By the book" page 343 this is a 1901 commercial firing pin and not the 1889 type firing pin. See pics. Maybe too light? My plan is to replace spring and firing pin, test fire and if still not working then send to bubba for repair. I will have to wait awhile for a new spring, my spares work so, good for this summer anyway.

 

That's a russian spring and swiss firing pin. I highly doubt the issue is light stripes due to that combo. In your pic of the parts, the top left piece, 2nd down was cut to make that firing pin work, you cant switch back to a german combo. Best advice I can give is sell all your yougo ammo and buy romanian/privi.

Edited by bigbore
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That would be the "lower extractor stop". Yep this lock did not work on Yugo ammo but did on 1970's Romanian. My other lock worked on both. The firing pin on this lock, that did not work on Yugo, had a shorter and more worn tip which is what got me started on taking it apart in the first place. So if I can not go back to German then I may have a spare Russian or Vickers firing pin, may try that. See pic for my locks and pin protrusion. Thanks for the info.

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Edited by jamesbucklin
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Will a type 1 heavy Vickers firing pin work in place of the Russian firing pin, see pic?

Sorted thru my stash of parts, found all sorts of stuff. 3 different types of springs and firing pins. Also a Vickers coat and 3 right hand recoil plates for a Maxim, I do not know why 3, maybe for a Russian conversion, does anybody need one, trade for a Russisn firing pin. I am enjoying tinkering with this gun. Do not know why the pics are upside down, rotated and they still are upside down?post-1716-0-72062800-1590364699_thumb.jpegpost-1716-0-64982200-1590364673_thumb.jpegpost-1716-0-96947200-1590364462_thumb.jpegpost-1716-0-67064500-1590364429_thumb.jpeg

Edited by jamesbucklin
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Will a type 1 heavy Vickers firing pin work in place of the Russian firing pin, see pic?

Sorted thru my stash of parts, found all sorts of stuff. 3 different types of springs and firing pins. Also a Vickers coat and 3 right hand recoil plates for a Maxim, I do not know why 3, maybe for a Russian conversion, does anybody need one, trade for a Russisn firing pin. I am enjoying tinkering with this gun. Do not know why the pics are upside down, rotated and they still are upside down?attachicon.gif image.jpegattachicon.gif image.jpegattachicon.gif image.jpegattachicon.gif image.jpeg

 

Vickers firing pin should work just fine. I use a swiss firing pin in my Vickers, so no reason a vickers firing pin wont work in your maxim with the correct spring and the modified extractor stop.

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  • 7 months later...

Is spring supposed to go and stay? This is as far as I can get it before the spring tension is too high to keep it in place any where near the hole. It is a Swiss spring per big bore. Very stiff and I am trying to use a brass punch as a pin guide but getting the spring anywhere near the hole is near impossible? Am I on the right track or am I missing something? I am trying to follow the instruction per the book, extractor up, firing pin out, tumbler pressed against sidelevers shank. I can get a pick in place but getting the brass punch in is near impossible? am I missing something. Any tricks, tips or advice would be appreciated. Cold winters day here so decided to try and put it back together but no luck so far. See attached pic.

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Is spring supposed to go and stay? This is as far as I can get it before the spring tension is too high to keep it in place any where near the hole. It is a Swiss spring per big bore. Very stiff and I am trying to use a brass punch as a pin guide but getting the spring anywhere near the hole is near impossible? Am I on the right track or am I missing something? I am trying to follow the instruction per the book, extractor up, firing pin out, tumbler pressed against sidelevers shank. I can get a pick in place but getting the brass punch in is near impossible? am I missing something. Any tricks, tips or advice would be appreciated. Cold winters day here so decided to try and put it back together but no luck so far. See attached pic.

 

you are on the right track, but one of these tools makes the job WAY easier.

https://adcofirearms.com/shop/manufacturer/adco/maxim-mg08-0815-firing-pin-spring-install-tool/

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Thanks for the help, I will order tomorrow. I have your booster but have not tried it yet. Does the tool come with directions, it looks easy enough, the pin just follows your tool thru. I am almost there just can not get the spring lined up to get the pin in. I think your tool may work.

Edited by jamesbucklin
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Also have you made any more accessories for the Maxim like barrel sleeves or booster soaking cans? I have your water jacket kit and also one of your firing pins. Good to have these available again, thanks.

Edited by jamesbucklin
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Also have you made any more accessories for the Maxim like barrel sleeves or booster soaking cans? I have your water jacket kit and also one of your firing pins. Good to have these available again, thanks.

 

Nothing else really on the radar right now. We can probably make anything you need, but will be very expensive if not made in quantity.

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Original booster soaking cans are readily available James but in the States there will always be a healthy market for lock pins, springs, and Feedblock parts. Have the members heard of eGun.de

A great website for pieces. Almost the European equivalent of gunbroker

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  • 1 year later...

I started this topic in 2017, now 5 years later I finally put my lock back together. I will not be defeated. Hardest part was getting the spring back in as per the book. Finally stuck it in a vise and found correct starting position for the spring. It needs to be down and to the side, so it presses on the firing pin, then it can be worked(a struggle session) to get the pin in place. The tail on my original spring was too long and would not fit with the Russian firing pin I was trying to install, it must be for an original maxim firing pin. Yes the gib piece had been cut for it to fit the Russian firing pin. See pic for starting position to get the pin in place.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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