Jump to content

Reising Firing Pins


Recommended Posts

I had a problem with my Keystone titanium pin. A round got caught half way out of the mag which stopped the bolt, the pin went forward to the point of sticking out of the bolt face, then somehow the bolt jammed a bit more forward and the base of the round put side force on the tip of the pin and bent it. Range day over. In taking it apart the tip broke off of the pin so I put it in my lathe, bored a small hole in the end of the pin for the back end of a drill bit (forget the exact size), silver soldered the drill bit in place and then ground it down until it stuck out of the bolt a small but significant distance (eyeball engineering) and it has run just fine since. Titanium is nice but I think that it's a bit too soft for the application. I'm not knocking Keystone at all. Glad they make the parts that they do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Skoda,

On a Reising the hammer sears up on every shot and is released only when the bolt goes into battery which aligns the FP with the hammer and trips the auto sear. With the jam you described, the hammer could not be aligned nor could the auto sear have been tripped. So how did the firing pin move forward without a hammer blow? If it happened just because the bolt hit a jammed cartridge and inertia carried the pin forward then it's likely that you needed a new firing pin spring, especially when you consider that a titanium FP would only have about 2/3rds the inertia of the original steel pin. Alternatively the FP could have been stuck in the forward position from accumulated crud inside the bolt.

 

Something else was going on there that bears further investigation

Edited by StrangeRanger
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've only had my Model 50 less than a year . I am on titaniuum pin #3. They seem to break after about 500- 700 rounds. The primer indent looks very deep so I'm going to try shortening it just a bit.

 

The Wolff mainspring/ action bar spring really helped. She is close to 100 % now. Even with that spring 3.9 Bullseye plus a 230 plated RN works fine and slows her down a bit- best MC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ordered a titanium FP from Keystone Joe, but...

 

Has anyone tried cutting a Reising firing pin at the boss section and attaching, by silver solder or welding, a shortened M16 firing pin?

I am going to try it next.

 

I solved my Lanchester's firing pin problem (another subgun known for FP failures) with a M1 carbine firing pin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little info on a 50 bmg firing pin that i found on a gun smith site .hope it helps According to USGI specs for ammo acceptance testing using a Universal Receiver: Firing Pin Protrusion is .074" to .082", Firing Pin Indent is .020" to .025" in a SAMMI spec copper cylinder. Firing pin diameter is .077" to .078" with a nose radius of .040" to .045". This will ensure ignition of USGI Ammo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Frank, I do not have one to measure but would a .50 cal M2 Browning firing pin might be a suitable candidate as well?

 

Are you still going to silver solder the larger rear boss section of Reising firing pin to the donor front end?

I don't have a .50 cal pin to check, a 1919A4 pin is not usable.

Yes I'm going to try to silver solder the donor pin to the boss of the Reising pin. Since I have several broken Reising pins I'm going to make two; one with the BAR pin and another with the M16 pin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Skoda,

On a Reising the hammer sears up on every shot and is released only when the bolt goes into battery which aligns the FP with the hammer and trips the auto sear. With the jam you described, the hammer could not be aligned nor could the auto sear have been tripped. So how did the firing pin move forward without a hammer blow? If it happened just because the bolt hit a jammed cartridge and inertia carried the pin forward then it's likely that you needed a new firing pin spring, especially when you consider that a titanium FP would only have about 2/3rds the inertia of the original steel pin. Alternatively the FP could have been stuck in the forward position from accumulated crud inside the bolt.

 

Something else was going on there that bears further investigation

 

StrangerRanger,

 

Without a high speed camera it's hard to tell what exactly happened. I did clean the inside of the bolt before putting the new titanium firing pin in so I don't think that it was crud - perhaps spring binding on the new pin, it does have a different profile from the original. I did change the spring AFTER I repaired it and check the new spring for binding (none). An abrupt stop could still allow the pin to come out if there is no primer to stop it, just air. It did stick quite a way out when it got bent. I've had other jams since then (I need to work on my magazine feed lips) but I have not seen another pin-bolt-cartridge jam like that which bent the pin. This all happened with the bolt face about 1/4" forward of the back side of the magazine so the hammer had no chance to be involved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...