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WTB M3A1 GG parts


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m3a1

 

im still learning, but here's what i know the differences are...bolt, stock, barrel w/ flats, ejection door

 

anything else? someone told me the main spring guide rod is different too?

 

here to learn and asking for advice on what i need for a parts kit

Edited by huggytree
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The guide rods are the same its the plate at the back of the rods that is different. The M3A1 has a small rectangular plate so that the weapon can be field-stripped without removing the ejector housing.

The M3 has a large plate, which is suggested because it does a better job of protecting the back of the receiver from a pounding. I have seen M3A1s with an indentation of the small backplate on the back of the receiver.

 

https://www.smallarmsreview.com/display.article.cfm?idarticles=4176

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https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/881560

 

this is the one youd recommend?

 

anyone recommend a buffer? i know they used to make a buffer to speed it up...anything needed to protect?...ive shot one with a buffer once..it was around 600 rpm range.

Edited by huggytree
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grabbed a GG and wanted to see if anyone has some spare parts as i like to have a full parts kit for all my guns

 

i bought main springs and extractors. Everything else im looking for

 

thanks

Dave

Congrats on the M3A1 Dave, they are a lot of fun to shoot. Did you by chance purchase the Medea on Subguns?

Edited by NFA amnesty
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yes the medea. Ive got detailed pics of the welds to share..looks like its a well done one. Got a bit off the price too in case it needs some gun smith tweaking, as i see mixed Medea reviews. Nice seller to work with.

 

anyone see anything good or bad?.....looking for a spare bolt, barrel if anyone knows of any for sale?

 

any info on the marking on the bolt?

 

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Edited by huggytree
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I'm not an expert on Greasers by any means but shouldn't an M3A1 barrel nut have a pair of wrench flats on it? IIRC they changed it from the original design to make it easier to disassemble when the gun got carboned up.

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I had a Medea M3A1 and the only issue I had was the mag well was so tight some of the mags would not fit in it. The dust cover originally would not close on the bolt when it was in the pulled back (open bolt ready to fire) position when I first got it. However I had a spare bolt on hand and it worked perfectly when I installed it regarding the dust cover safety.

 

I am sure from your research you found out it really depends on who welded the two halves together as they were sold as receiver halves from the Medea Corp. Some were done perfectly and others not so much and require a lot of work to get them going.

 

Your example looks really clean from the photos but you might want to ask the dealer if the dust cover does close on the bolt in the ready to fire position. This was a common reported problem with the Medea guns when I did research on them in 2005 around the time I purchased mine.

 

The story about them being purchased by the CIA and funneling them to Central America is bogus and not sure how that one got started.

 

They are a neat subgun and one of my favorite to shoot. If I had not purchased my Guide Lamp with the repair job, I would have jumped on the Medea you just purchased.

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Ive got enough off the asking price to cover any repairs needed. I bought the gun as is because of this.

 

Hoping for a winner

Have to admit that is a good looking grease gun you purchased. I was just curious if your dust cover closes on the open bolt. If it does, think you will have no issues with it at all as it appears the smith that put it together did a great job. Like you said, if it does have issues, it can all be fixed.

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Whats the H on the bolt?

 

Who made it ?

 

Thanks for the compliments on the gun. Pics and a video in 2 weeks

 

Ive got tons of minty blued gg mags for my Mac 10. They run 100% in a 1200 rpm gun. Hoping no issues in a 450 rpm gun

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H stands for hardened as it was a change made during the manufacture process. Bolt manufacture could be Guide Lamp, Ithaca, Buffalo Arms or Springfield Armory. That information is on the back of the bolt and can be seen once the bolt assembly is removed.
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Thanks...ill dissemble and take pics to ID what i all have when it comes in.

 

picked up a bunch of parts from Numrich today. Grabbed that m3 version of the main guide rod. Found a a1 housing assembly and trigger assembly. Springs and ejectors off GB.

 

Found someone with (2) A1 bolts tonight. 1 NOS in grease.

 

still would like a couple of barrels and a stock. M3a1 versions preferred but would consider m3

 

anyone wants to sell some for my kit or knows of a lead on where to grab them please let me know

 

thanks

Dave

Edited by huggytree
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  • 2 weeks later...

My very good buddy in Austin has a Medea GG. His has developed a crack at the rear end of the receiver over the past 25 or so years. It's repairable, but you may want to consider following Frank's advice about the larger plate. I just e-mailed my buddy to see if he would take a picture of where his GG receiver is cracking on the back.

 

David Albert

dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

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thanks..ive had 3 people tell me to use the larger plate...good idea...i have 1 spare..i dont know whats in the gun now...ill grab another spare and notch it for the ejector

 

i thought about getting a shorty threaded barrel to put a suppressor on...maybe its best to leave it all factory.....a suppressor would speed it up and maybe bottom it out

 

found out today my gun is a recent built..sold by medea 2-3 years ago.

 

Found a used m3 barrel locally. seller wants $350. i dont know if that is a good price or not for used.

 

i might just grab (2) indy barrels for $250 each and be done...ill give it a while for GI ones to show up on GB or Ebay.

 

its not like its a real GG...any barrel will do

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