Jump to content


Photo

Medea Corp M3


  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 Mojopin2010

Mojopin2010

    New Member

  • Regular Group
  • 1 posts

Posted 09 January 2021 - 12:38 PM

Howdy all,

 

I ended buying one of the last M3 Medea Corp shells a little back.  My form 4 got sent for a minor correction and the SOT thinks probbally things its near the end game.  As of right now I am having John Andrewski finish this up , though he did say their particular shell is a , "bit rough."

 

I managed with some help to find a new nice Guide Lamp saw cut parts kit, and have a bunch of other spares include a extra barrel and bolt assembly with guide rods/springs.

 

My main question is what are considered the high wear items on this SMG?

 

Attached Files


  • 0

#2 Got Uzi

Got Uzi

    Long Time RKI Member

  • Regular Group
  • 1033 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Uhrichsville, Ohio

Posted 09 January 2021 - 03:42 PM

Recoil springs, sears, and extractors.


Recoil springs and sear-5k-7.5k rounds

Extractor-10k rds unless its steel then cut that in half.


This is all based on personal experience with my M3. The advice is worth what you paid for it, but its a base line for you.

Edited by Got Uzi, 09 January 2021 - 03:43 PM.

  • 0

#3 huggytree

huggytree

    Long Time RKI Member

  • Regular Group
  • 3049 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:WI
  • Interests:Fast cars, Guns, Work

Posted 09 January 2021 - 07:36 PM

My gun was doing runaways. Turned out to be a worn sear and trigger spring was really bad

You can find main springs on GB

These guns bottom out and beat on the back. I have a suppressor barrel for mine and it softens up the gun dramatically. I dont think it bottoms out anymore. It makes the gun easily 2x better.
  • 0

#4 dalbert

dalbert

    Website Owner

  • Admin
  • 4942 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Ohio

Posted 16 January 2021 - 07:07 AM

I have a very good friend who has a Medea M3 that is splitting at the weld at the back of the receiver.  I'm not sure if anything can be done to beef up that area, but I thought I'd mention it.

 

David Albert

dalbert@sturmgewehr.com


  • 0

#5 Got Uzi

Got Uzi

    Long Time RKI Member

  • Regular Group
  • 1033 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Uhrichsville, Ohio

Posted 16 January 2021 - 09:03 AM

The bolt wont bottom out on the back of the receiver as long as the recoil springs are changed after 5,000 rounds or so. I got to the point Id change them out after 3,500 rounds.....$30 set of springs vs a $28k-$32k receiver.....yeah thats a no brained.

The other part in an M3A1 that causes issues was the improved design of the guide rod back plate. The original M3 used a large plate, a lot of surface area to spread the stress across. The M3A1 used a small plate which put all the stress in one central area. Couple that with a non-maintained gun and yeah youll blow out the back. The improved version was down so you can take the bolt assembly out of an M3A1 without pulling the ejector housing out, unlike the M3. The large plate on the M3 wouldnt clear the ejector.

Id run an M3 guide rod assembly in your Medea build. Its better on the gun. If you want to be able to pull the bolt assembly out without pulling the ejector housing off-Machine an 1/8 slot into the back plate to create clearance for it to pass the ejector on the way out.

Suppresses on M3s will actually create faster spring wear due to increased pressures throwing the bolt harder. The feeling of it shooting softer is due to damn near doubling the over all weight of the gun. Put a suppressor on an Uzi and it really makes the gun shoot smoother but you can also feel more bolt speed to the rear. Same thing here-suppressed means more bolt speed rearward which means more spring tension needed to counteract that.

Edited by Got Uzi, 16 January 2021 - 09:25 AM.

  • 0