Any of you load ammo for TSMG?

[RogerD]

I use 231 for a simple reason. When I purchased my Dillon reloader the customer service tech asked me what powder I would be using. He stated that 231 throws the most accurate and consistent drop through their powder measure. FWIW

[RoscoeTurner]

What I use, matches military spec -

 

230 gr Precision Delta FMJ OAL – 1.273 Crimp .473

 

4.6 Bullseye

Works equally well in handguns and Thompsons.

[MG08]

Different bullets have different COL. One important factor is to know it will fit into the box magazine. I load to 1.262 COL, I use Winchester 231 which is Hodgdon hp38 too, and use 5.2 grains. I look for 950fps.

 

This is pretty much what I load. I use the COL form the Hornady manual for a 230 gr FMJ. Runs the Thompsons well. I use the same COL for the light 200 gr HP berry's bullets in my 1911s ( light for my arthritis) You use the COL tht his specifiec for the bullet, or that you work out for yourself based on testing

[mnshooter]

 

HS-6 is on the fast side for 45 ACP (though i use if for major 38 super loads). WW231 was basically made for 45 ACP loads and back when that was the thing for practical shooting nearly everyone used it

 

HP-38 is the same stuff - Been very cost effective and I use it in 40 S&W and 9mm too. I have found some inconsistency in purchased cast bullets, I pretty much stick to FMJ projectiles. cleaner and easier on the bore. Powders like unique and 700x are just too dirty for a day of shooting with sweat and grease/oil involved

Not sure what you're referencing by "...the same stuff", as HP-38/W231 is very different from HS-6 in

both burn rate and charge weights.

You may be thinking of HS-5 (Same as the discontinued W540), which is much closer to HP-38/W231.

HS-6 is similar in performance to the old Herco shotgun powder, which used to be a top choice for

full power (re: European) 9mm loads.

Though HS-6 does work well in full power 9mm, I've found it to be less clean burning than some of the newer choices.

Edited August 11, 2020 by mnshooter

[MG08]

 

 

HS-6 is on the fast side for 45 ACP (though i use if for major 38 super loads). WW231 was basically made for 45 ACP loads and back when that was the thing for practical shooting nearly everyone used it

 

HP-38 is the same stuff - Been very cost effective and I use it in 40 S&W and 9mm too. I have found some inconsistency in purchased cast bullets, I pretty much stick to FMJ projectiles. cleaner and easier on the bore. Powders like unique and 700x are just too dirty for a day of shooting with sweat and grease/oil involved

Not sure what you're referencing by "...the same stuff", as HP-38/W231 is very different from HS-6 in

both burn rate and charge weights.

You may be thinking of HS-5 (Same as the discontinued W540), which is much closer to HP-38/W231.

HS-6 is similar in performance to the old Herco shotgun powder, which used to be a top choice for

full power (re: European) 9mm loads.

Though HS-6 does work well in full power 9mm, I've found it to be less clean burning than some of the newer choices.

 

was referring to W231 and HP38......

[Chief762]

I like 5 gr. of Titegroup under a Berry's 230 plated or a home cast powder coated 230 lead.

[Tiz]

I like 5 gr. of Titegroup under a Berry's 230 plated or a home cast powder coated 230 lead.

Powder coated? Enlighten me.

[Dan K]

If it is what I am thinking it is a molybdenum disulfate costing. This takes the place of the traditional wax bullet lube.

[Tiz]

If it is what I am thinking it is a molybdenum disulfate costing. This takes the place of the traditional wax bullet lube.

Like dipped in Dri-Slide and set out to dry? I wonder how effective that might be in preventing any leading?

[ppgcowboy]

I like Berrys plated bullets. Yet to have a leading problem.

[Dan K]

 

 

If it is what I am thinking it is a molybdenum disulfate costing. This takes the place of the traditional wax bullet lube.

Like dipped in Dri-Slide and set out to dry? I wonder how effective that might be in preventing any leading?

Similar to powder graphite. There is a school of thought moly bullets are harmful to barrels. The idea is to get away with the mess and smoke from wax bullet lubes.

 

I am running jacketed because I have some on hand. I have cast and run lead for well over the past decade and will likely move to lead when I run out of jacketed for the M1A1.

[Tiz]

 

 

 

If it is what I am thinking it is a molybdenum disulfate costing. This takes the place of the traditional wax bullet lube.

Like dipped in Dri-Slide and set out to dry? I wonder how effective that might be in preventing any leading?

Similar to powder graphite. There is a school of thought moly bullets are harmful to barrels. The idea is to get away with the mess and smoke from wax bullet lubes.

 

I am running jacketed because I have some on hand. I have cast and run lead for well over the past decade and will likely move to lead when I run out of jacketed for the M1A1.

I have not seen a problem with barrel leading cast since the velocity is so low in 45 ACP but it does seem to accumulate in the Cutts and Cutts is a bitch to clean.

[Dan K]

I am interested to see if the M1A1 will run the H&G 68 SWC. That is one of my favorite 45 profiles.

 

Years ago, there was a guy in town who shot a lot of lead with a comp'ed pistol. To get the lead out, he would dip it in a Mayo jar with Mercury in it. I looked it up and lead is soluable in Mercury. I would suspect that would be frowned upon today and I doubt you could just go buy a jar of Mercury. The Mercury in thermometers is long gone replaced by alcohol.

[Tiz]

I am interested to see if the M1A1 will run the H&G 68 SWC. That is one of my favorite 45 profiles.

 

Years ago, there was a guy in town who shot a lot of lead with a comp'ed pistol. To get the lead out, he would dip it in a Mayo jar with Mercury in it. I looked it up and lead is soluable in Mercury. I would suspect that would be frowned upon today and I doubt you could just go buy a jar of Mercury. The Mercury in thermometers is long gone replaced by alcohol.

If you want to remove lead a 50 -50 mixture of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide soaked for about 15 seconds will do the job but it’s hell on bluing. I use it on my UZI by plugging the barrel at one end with a cork and filling the barrel with the mixture then swabbing out the lead residue with cotton patches. Can’t do it with the Tommy because of the Cutts.

Edited August 17, 2020 by Tiz

[Bridgeport28A1]

I used a homemade Outers lead out devise with Outer lead out solution to completely remove the lead from a Thompson compensator. I had removed the comp from the barrel. I have not shot lead through it after getting it clean other then the occasional FMJ with an exposed lead base.

[Chief762]

 

I like 5 gr. of Titegroup under a Berry's 230 plated or a home cast powder coated 230 lead.

Powder coated? Enlighten me.

Tiz

 

It's real name is HiTek Extreme. It's sold by Missouri Bullet Co. It's a fine powder that's diluted in acetone and tumbled onto raw cast bullets. It's then baked on in an oven (toaster oven in my case). I do two or three light coats then size the bullets. It's easy to do and cheap. A quart of the stuff can do almost 1000 pounds of cast bullets. That's a lot of bullets. I usually mix up about 4 oz and can do over a thousand 45/230s. I know others have actually used powder coating on cast bullets...Doug Stump comes to mind with his cast .303s. But that's how I do it.

Chief762