Cleaning A Colt 1921AC TSMG

[OCM]

With a little luck, I may be getting my Colt 21 in about 4 weeks. Getting a little anxious of course, I'm ready. ( trying not to think of the time frames, just makes me crazy (er) )

The two times I inspected the weapon, the inside was fairly well packed with grease. Couldn't do much about that standing in the dealer's shop.

I'll use my Clenzoil on it, but can someone give me a good solution to removing all the packed grease. Sure I can do it with rags and all, but is there a degreaser solution made for guns. I know what I use for my old cars, but certainly don't want to damage the wood or anything with a harsh chemical. Certainly don't want to stand outside with a Thompson spraying it down with engine degreaser.

Maybe old fashion elbow grease ?

 

Appreciate any comments,

 

OCM

 

Sorry about the upper case lower case in the title, old , old key board, and me.

Edited November 18, 2012 by OCM

[jim c 351]

Sandy,

The upper lower case isn't your fault. It happens every time for me.

For a gun like a 21 Colt I wouldn't look for any shortcuts in cleaning. I'd do it the old fashioned way and savor every minute.

Jim C

[darrylta]

The supreme degreaser is gasoline, but it's not PC.

As far as the internals, completely disassemble and clean with Mean Green with hot water

and a gun cleaning brush.

 

The furniture is another matter, the patina you see is from decades of handling with sweaty

dirty hands and linseed oil if it's original. Any effort to chemically remove the grime will effect color. The black walnut in a striped

state is almost white in color. A gentle cleaner akin to mineral spirits/ boiled linseed oil might work.

 

I'll be receiving a Colt BMR in a month that appears to have original wood on it. Of course, you never know what

your going to do until it's in your hands at your work bench,,,,but I'm thinking about just a good waxing.

 

When you get to a point of no return and your not sure, I've found it best to walk away and think about your

options rather than plowing through.

 

Let us know what you do and post lots of photos.

 

Enjoy,

Darryl

Edited November 19, 2012 by darrylta

[RoscoeTurner]

Mineral spirits to removed the packed grease, will not harm the finish. Let it air dry for a few minutes them use your favorite oil to finish with.

[OCM]

Great, about what I figured, Jim C's comment was pretty much what I was expecting to do, then use one of the normal solvents to finish, dry, clean and oil.

Didn't know if there was like a Grandpa's Gun de-greaser that everyone uses.

I won't mess with the furniture, just the receiver to de-grease. Hand rub boiled linseed oil and Clenzoil the rest of the gun.

One of the greatest things in life ( second greatest ) is to clean my Thompsons. Classic cars too, but another forum.

 

Thanks all, again.

 

My examiner is Sandra Snook, if that makes any difference on time. I'm damn close I think, 4 weeks out.

 

OCM

 

 

[darrylta]

Sounds like a very Merry Christmas at Sandy's house.

-Darryl

[Uncle Dudley]

With the correct screwdriver you are only 2 screws away from removing the furniture completely. I always remove my stocks when doing a thorough cleaning to prevent softening or damaging the finish on the wood. I do use more agressive solvents for flushing away dirt, powder residue, metal particles, old oil, and carbon. Since I'm an old car guy, brake cleaner in a spray can is my flushing agent, after cleaning with Hoppes #9 or oil using a small brush. I use it outside of course, and after removing the wood. It dissolves and flushes the crud pretty well, although scrubbing is a must on caked on old contaminants. It evaporates quickly and leaves no scummy residue. You can use the little tube that goes in the spray nozzle to get a good blast in the crevices, corners, and the trigger frame and bolt. If you have access to compressed air you can blow out the trigger frame, bolt, and receiver after the flushing for a little quicker drying and to blow out any trapped particles or crud with out a complete dissasembly of those parts. It doesn't harm bluing or parkerizing, and it's cheap. It's good for flushing the felt bolt oiler, which can accumulate some abrasive particles, without damaging the felt. After the brake cleaner flush and drying, follow with your favorite oil and oiling techniques. I use the Rem-oil in the spray can to coat the metal first and get into the trigger frame and bolt. Then my special MGboards mix of Mobil-1 and gun oil for the felt oiler pads, blish lock, and bolt sides.

 

I usually hit the auto parts store and get a case of brake cleaner (12 cans) for around 2.50 to 3.50 per can on sale. Oh yeah, I use it to clean brake parts and other metal items. Of course it does contain meth-ethyl-bad-shit, so educate yourself on using it safely. It stings pretty well if you get a richocet in your eyes.

http://www.ehow.com/list_5985776_brake-cleaner-ingredients.html

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Fluids-and-Chemicals/Brake-Cleaner/_/N-25h0

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-tests/brake-cleaner3.htm

 

 

I hope your Christmas present arrives shortly.

 

U D

[ron_brock]

Lately on wood I have been using Butcher's Bowling Alley wax. I read an article in Men at Arms a few issues back and this was one of Stuart's recommendation on preserving wood. I bought a can online and have so far been pleased with the results.

 

- Ron

[OCM]

Thanks all-

Uncle D I got brake cleaner in the shop- Our farrier is also a gun builder, was saying the same thing. Don't like the stuff cause it means I'm doing brake work which I hate, my stuff is mechanical brakes. Ruined a pair of eye glasses with the stuff, it delaminated, or what the hell you call it, on the surface of the glasses.

I'm goosey about taking the wood off, I've done that on old cars and a piece of the wood is still sticks on the metal, while the rest comes off. Only guessing here, but doubt the furniture has ever been off the gun since the Indiana PD bought it. ? I'll make that call later.

Do like the idea of using the little long red plastic thingy to get in the little areas, oh yes, have an air compressor.

Again, usually do what Jim said, elbow grease and fun. I'm a newbie so that's a safe approach. Thumbs slow me down a bit these days, that's why God gave us malt based products.

 

Appreciate all the advice- Christmas, don't know. I told my wife if it comes in like the 24th, I'll open the case it's been stored in on Christmas morning. Sneak out at 1:00am to see your new Thompson under the tree-

 

Stay safe-

 

OCM

[mnshooter]

Completely agree with removing all the wood from the metal once, to clean and photograph.

That will also let you confirm the numbers on the butt stock and butt plate.

You could have some corrosion going on against the wood and now is the time to deal with that.

For grease removal indoors, where you don't want to CFC your parakeet, a hair dryer

to warm the metal and WD40 on paper towels and q-tips will also do a fine job with little odor.

Edited December 6, 2012 by mnshooter

[james m]

I also agree with removing all the wood but I have a different treatment for it. Wipe it down thoroughly with mineral spirits. Then get a can of Howards "Restore a Finish" from Lowes or Home depot in Walnut of course. I've found this works great on military finish(linseed oil) stocks.

One pointer on cleaning that gets missed a lot. You have to clean out the extractor** slot in the receiver as this get jammed with grease,unburnt powder etc. I've cured the reliabilty problems with multiple Thompsons at my club with this problem with a thorough cleaning. What happens is you get light primer strikes and eventually no strikes as the bolt can't go all the way home.

Good luck with your new acquisition as it sounds like a nice one.

Jim

** Thanks Chris: I corrected this above from ejector to extractor. I have to proof more carefully in the future.

Edited December 7, 2012 by james m

[emmagee1917]

I think he means extractor slot .

Chris