Rebluing Thompson Help Needed

[Joseph_T]

some images

I hope you guys dont ban me for having done the hi-polish brushed finish bluing

its a bit soaked in oil at the moment.

 

http://i67.tinypic.com/2dma87m.jpg

http://i67.tinypic.com/34e2l1u.jpg

http://i63.tinypic.com/28mn6m8.jpg

http://i63.tinypic.com/vzd0mb.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/2z86www.jpg

Edited June 30, 2017 by Joseph_T

[buzz]

You did a good job sanding out the pitting but that purple bluing needs to be redone. It looks really weird.

 

Your gun is a very early Savage 28, made in the first two months or so of production, somewhere around June 1940.

 

Here's a thompson made about 2 or 3 weeks before yours:

 

https://jamesdjulia.com/item/1685-396/

 

The receiver and barrel finish is a dull back oxide. I have a similar savage in the same serial number range and the finish on mine is identical.

 

Hope this helps a bit

Edited June 30, 2017 by buzz

[buzz]

You might want to consider sending the parts to a professional shop for rebluing.

 

Some of those guys are true artists.

[Adg105200]

The receiver color almost matches the grip haha. Definitely redo the receiver.

 

Not sure what your other plans are, but I would polish and re-blue the selectors, trigger, mag catch, and pivot plate. It would bug me to have some finish or wear on those when the trigger frame came out so good.

 

Andrew

[Black River Militaria CII]

Depending on the source of the salts, some makers can supply an additive that when properly added to a new batch of salts can control the plum effect which is a reaction of the bath being too hot with some higher carbon content alloys. Use of the additive is not simple but it works well on hardened parts. I've used hot salts on a number of 1928 upper and lower receivers and not had a plum color result so, as noted above, take the parts to a competent bluing shop so they can get it right.

As an aside, my choice for texture on the '28s has been to bead with 70/100 grit and then buff with a fine wire wheel, .003 wire, which brings up the surface to a dull shine and eliminates the fine coarseness from the light bead after bluing. Factory receivers and lowers on the '28s were not surface treated before oxide finish was applied.

[Joseph_T]

Depending on the source of the salts, some makers can supply an additive that when properly added to a new batch of salts can control the plum effect which is a reaction of the bath being too hot with some higher carbon content alloys. Use of the additive is not simple but it works well on hardened parts. I've used hot salts on a number of 1928 upper and lower receivers and not had a plum color result so, as noted above, take the parts to a competent bluing shop so they can get it right.

As an aside, my choice for texture on the '28s has been to bead with 70/100 grit and then buff with a fine wire wheel, .003 wire, which brings up the surface to a dull shine and eliminates the fine coarseness from the light bead after bluing. Factory receivers and lowers on the '28s were not surface treated before oxide finish was applied.

Thanks for the explanation, i might give it another try tomorrow keeping the temp little lower.

Edited June 30, 2017 by Joseph_T

[darrylta]

The puffy appearance of the receiver reminds me of my original (2) NAC-Colt guns.

PK did his magic on both guns, ending in a deep black oxide finish. What ever he's doing, it works.

You may want to contact him to help you out.

Is this gun a live, full auto gun?

Darryl

[Joseph_T]

The puffy appearance of the receiver reminds me of my original (2) NAC-Colt guns.

PK did his magic on both guns, ending in a deep black oxide finish. What ever he's doing, it works.

You may want to contact him to help you out.

Is this gun a live, full auto gun?

Darryl

 

I will try to send him an email and i hope he can help me out.

Can you post some pictures of your guns? : )

 

no, this is a free part set (no main gun parts such as barrel/bolt) as german law still permits.

 

this will end up with a deactivated barrel and bolt as a display gun, thats why im looking for the best finish : )

Edited June 30, 2017 by Joseph_T

[darrylta]

Sure,

This is a Virginia State Police gun. It's in a G. Fox Alabama case and

two period revolvers and holsters. Enlarge the photo to get some detail.

Darryl

 

 

 

 

[Joseph_T]

Sure,

This is a Virginia State Police gun. It's in a G. Fox Alabama case and

two period revolvers and holsters. Enlarge the photo to get some detail.

Darryl

wow... that what im looking for ... can i ask you how do you highlight the markings?

[Adg105200]

Not sure what others here have done but enamel paint works. There are many materials and methods to it. Try doing a search on YouTube for 'filling AR roll marks. Hope you figure out the purple receiver issue.

 

Andrew

[buzz]

the classic way to highlight gun markings is a "china pencil"

 

also known as a "grease pencil"

 

it's like a big fat pencil that writes with white wax

 

that way you can remove the highlighting when you want with some gun oil and a toothbrush

 

enamel paint is in there for keeps

Edited July 2, 2017 by buzz

[Joseph_T]

the classic way to highlight gun markings is a "china pencil"

 

also known as a "grease pencil"

 

it's like a big fat pencil that writes with white wax

 

that way you can remove the highlighting when you want with some gun oil and a toothbrush

 

enamel paint is in there for keeps

Thanks for the hint, i will try to blue once again with a thermometer this time and check that temps are in the operational range required (which is 138 to 145C) i didnt used a thermometer in these bluing sessions because i readed somewhere that adding salt to the water increases its weight (damn i loaded 7kg of salt in 7kg of water, that was heavy) which will make the boiling temperature exactly what needed during bluing. Have noticed that in both sessions the water wasnt boiling at all. and if i get the upper red it means it must have been too hot. lets see what happens

[buzz]

keep us posted

 

china marker:

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sharpie-Peel-Off-China-Markers-Red-Dozen/21368833?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227015295593&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=56456041689&wl4=pla-89140164969&wl5=9007261&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=21368833&wl13=&veh=sem

[laurencen]

white nail pollish works decent, paint it on and wipe off with acetone, use a firm rag so it does not remove any white or the color of choice from the stamping

[shadycon]

White correction pen, but pretty permanent.

[Bridgeport28A1]

I have used a white correction pen to mark sights and gear. I have found Hoppes #9 removes it pretty quickly.

[Joseph_T]

So i blued a third time... and nothing good came out even at this.

 

i wonder why, because this time i managed to use a thermometer and shoot the temp up to the working temps (between 138/145C)

 

nothing good. funny thing is that this time even the lyman housing came sh*t

 

and i got no explanation why is this happening.

[Adg105200]

I would contact Du-lite. They have probably had many calls from customers with issues. I'm sure they have chemists on hand. Just make sure you explain everything you did in detail.

 

I know the easy thing to do would be to bring it to a professional for bluing, but a problem like your having would bug me until I got it right myself.

 

Andrew

[Joseph_T]

im back home and just checked the result of the bluing session, incredibly,after curing, the color resulted in a better deep black.

it is still not right anyway, last bluing was made as a testing and will be made again, i called Du-Lite, and the guy explained me that (obviously) the upper receiver is strongly hardened and wont blue like all other metals, he recommended to do two baths, one with a standard concentration of salt, the other with a higher concentration of salt, what i noted during last bluing bath, is that in the beginning, with 1:1 salt / water, the upper was taking plum coloration, then with water quicly evaporating from the solution boiling at 135-140C, leaving a more salty solution, the upper started taking its black color. so i will skip straight to 60-40 salt/water

 

i hope thats the last step before having the best result!!

 

I also found an old 1900 tecnique to brush the steel before bluing and its coming good!! (yes the scratches are not straight on upper.. but i was in a hurry and managed to get the wrong grit sandpaper without noticing.. these will be made better on next session)

the cool thing, is that unless you put it under direct lighting, you wont be able to see the brushing.

 

Edited July 8, 2017 by Joseph_T

[Gio]

Joseph_T

 

You have had one problem after another but you where persistent and tried different methods. You now have something that you can be proud of and you did it all yourself.

 

Great job.

 

Frank

[Adg105200]

Great!! It's good that you persisted and are now on the right track. Post pictures of the finished product.

 

Will you be bluing all the small parts? Or refinishing the wood stock set?

 

It will no doubt look beautiful when it is all done.

 

Andrew

[67ray]

The serial number is so well imprinted int this receiver. And your work is really something to be proud of anyone would love to own that baby

[Joseph_T]

thanks guys! : ) Andrew im leaving the small parts for last, there is a member interested in them with the original finish, if i cant achieve the result i want im gonna give these to him. If i can achieve the result im looking

 

for, these are going in the salts too. These knurled levers and the no hole mag catch really give an artistic touch to this already artistic gun.

 

 

[huggytree]

You could replace the lower guts with basic /normal guts. The guts you have are rare. No one will notice the differences who is not a Thompson nerd

 

This from the guy who wants those spare parts

 

Your doing a great job

Edited July 10, 2017 by huggytree