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Which .45acp ammo do you think is the dirtiest that you have experience with?

Like wise, which .45acp ammo do you think is the cleanest burning?

Any other thoughts on ammo that you would care to commment on? Does your Thompson operate better with any certain brand?

 

Thanks in advance, Brent. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/blink.gif

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I shoot S&B ammo.

I've used Wolf and Winchester and MagTech and a couple of others. DO NOT USE American Ammo brand. It is very inconsistant and will jam every time in FA. Some rounds were so weak they wouldn't cycle the round. S&B is semi clean. Winchester has the WINCLEN stuff, but it jams in my Thompson's. Wolf is pretty dirty stuff.

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My experience with different brands is rather limited. I began using S&B years ago because it was relatively inexpensive. It has performed flawlessly every time I have used it, from single shot to drum dumps. It seems to be a little hotter than some of the US brands. It is fairly clean burning, and with a little Carter's in my comp, I have never had any buildup of lead or powder.

 

I used some Federal American Eagle recently. It was also reliable, but noticeably dirtier than S&B. I have used a small amount of Winchester (white box) in the past, and also felt it was rather dirty.

 

Look closely if you are purchasing Winchester white box. The recent stuff is actually being made in the Czech Republic, not the USA. The box is smaller, the exact same size as the S&B (also Czech). Anyone want to guess who is making the ammo for Winchester?? Assuming my guess is correct, I do not know whether the new Winchester is being made the same as the S&B or to different specs.

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Old Fal Guy,

 

This was brought up along with several other products in posts earlier this year about cleaning comps. It is Carter's Comp Spray, and is a clear liquid that you pump spray into your comp BEFORE shooting. I typically use 2-3 pumps through the slots on the top of the comp and then 1 pump in the front opening. Then tilt the barrel down and let any excess run out. Repeat this process every couple hundred rounds (CYA).

 

I have bought Carter's through Dillon Precision in the past, but I don't see it on their web site right now. I suggest you call them or perhaps someone else on the board knows a source.

 

Roger

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I"ve used the Carter's comp spray and it seems to work pretty well. Got it from Dillions about $8.00 a bottle I think. The WWII surplus ammo is really dirty stuff but I have never had any problems with it functioning the gun. Just clean it well soon as you get through shooting it. Mag tech seems to be good ammo. I had some of that Armsco ammo at Knob Creek for $7.00 a box. It was pure trash. Was not hot enough to cycle the weapon. Now I know why thet were selling it so cheaply.
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I use commerical reloads by T's Guns and Ammo. The 230 fmj are very clean and the price is reasonable compared to factory. They have a website that is www.tsgunsandammo.com. I have used there loads in all calibers for over 15 years with no trouble.
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Original WWII .45 GI ball with steel cases. It's really filthy stuff. Firing produces quite a bit of smoke and the powder residue really cakes on. It's a bear to remove. It's also absolutely reliable. I love it!
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I have used it, and it is filthy, but 100% reliable. And CORROSIVE!

 

I swapped bolts during one session at the range, and when I cleaned the gun after I forgot the bolt I took out earlier. It was surface corroded and pitted badly after a few months when I found it again.

 

Nothing else happened badly as a result of using this stuff, as long as you clean up diligently!

 

I have bought spam cans of it (600 rounds) for $75 to $80 at shows. That is as low as $6.25 / box of 50. Unbeatable price, The lowest I paid for commercial ammo was $100 for 500 rounds of Winchester (and had 4 rounds not fire when struck).

 

Spammo works!

 

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I don't shoot my 1928 all that much, probably around 2000 rounds this year between the 1928 and my Reisings. All of it has been either Wolf or Winchester white box. No problems with either, but the Wolf is much cleaner shooting than the Winchester (as well as being a lot cheaper).

 

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I haven’t been able to find the Carter’s Comp Spray recently either.

 

MIG welding spray has worked well, but I have often wondered if PAM cooking spray might be effective; keeps the grilled cheese from sticking.

 

Federal American Eagle has been good to me.

 

Nothing more reliable than the potassium chlorate primers in that spam can ammo. What was that about “salt of the earth”?

 

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PhilOhio:

Regarding the really nasty WWII ammo, the most that I ever fired in one day was a single can of 600 rounds. This was done using the WH M1 just back from PK's excellent care. It didn't miss a beat. The last XXX magazine fired as well as the first even though the grime was really caked on. It was almost as though the dirt was acting as a lube in its own right!

I detail stripped and cleaned the gun on two successive days and again a month later. There is no hint of corrosion.

This gun, while NIB when I got it, would not fire three rounds in a row when it went to PK. Now, it's just amazing. I wish I had more TSMGs to send his way!

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Having sent 2 Thompsons to PK, I know the joy of which you speak.. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/laugh.gif ..I still prefer 5.0grs. of Bullseye with 230grs. of homemade roundnose....can`t beat the price and it works in every Thompson,Reising,GG,and MAC 10 I shoot....the comps get a workout,but that is why God made ultrasonic cleaners...or something like that... http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/wink.gif
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PhilOhio,

 

I agree 100%, casting GREATLY reduces the overall cost. Its been a long time since I've plugged in the lead pot.

I had major problems with the sprue plates after a few hundred rounds.

I eventually gave up. I've never cast for the .45, but in .357 and .44 it worked very well. I also used gas checks with the castings.

I load with Win 231 a little dirty, but I always had good results down range.

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Wideners Reloading is about 20 minutes from the house which influences my ammo selection considerably. Drive down there and avoid shipping. And best of all, sometimes quantity and $100 bills work as well.

 

I have used S&B in the past, but have experienced slow burning powder making cycling in short barreled MG's unreliable. But it is fairly clean.

 

Lately, I have been using IMI in most of my guns. .45 as well as .223 and .308. Reliable, consistent and clean.

 

Thanks for the comments on the surplus stuff. I picked up a bunch of Spanish ammo (I think) in a deal a year or so ago. Haven't fired any of it yet, but figured it was corrosive. Any experiences?

 

Ken

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I've been using S&B for a few years & have noticed that it isn't as easy to get as it once was. It worked fairly good in my WHM1 (another fine example of what PK can do to a jam-a-matic Thompson. My Thompson now works better than my conceal carry gun does. Maybe I ought to use the WHM1 as my conceal carry gun instead of my S&W 9mm).

I guess I better come down to earth after that statement. I have been nailed in the past by 3 rds. of S&B brass ejecting out of my Thompson & hitting my right len on my glasses. This was 3 different times, not in a row. Anybody have this happen before with any brand of ammo?

This thread is sure fun!

 

Brent http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/tongue.gif

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QUOTE (PhilOhio @ Aug 31 2005, 08:39 PM)
TSMGguy,

600 rounds in a day would be a good test.  The black stuff may indeed work like a lubricant, as with the softer deposits of which I have found that to be true.



You could well be right; these deposits seem to have more of a waxy rather than a gritty feel. We fired this ammunition in a very short period of time, as I had three shooters who had never fired any SMG before. I remember thinking at the time what a good test of the gun and ammunition this was, as the gun got very hot and was not wiped down or otherwise maintained during firing.

I seem to remember that potassium chlorate was used in most, if not all, US WWII small arms primers, except for M1 carbine ammunition, and that shelf life is excellent. I hope that the primers in this ammo are not overly touchy as I take no special precautions when storing, handling, and transporting it!

I am more partial to US ammo from the 50s and 60s as it seems to be generally cleaner all around than the wartime stuff.

Our local humidity is generally low, but I clean any weapon fired with WWII .30-06 and .45 right away.

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Phil Ohio,

 

LOL, at this time I'm not even sure where I got the lead I have, but there are quite a few ingots in the basement. I know I had used a mix of Lino, wheel weights and lead from other sources. It may be a little too hard, I need to invest in a hardness tester. The gas checks worked wonders when pumping out magnum revolver rounds.

Most of my reloading stuff has been sitting silent for a few years, simply due to lack of time. But with all of the accumulated brass I'm getting the itch again. http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif

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