mohawk64 Posted December 14, 2019 Report Share Posted December 14, 2019 I have received the vise from our board member friend. I haven't been able to get it evaluated yet. But I plan on posting pictures of it on a separate thread by Tuesday of next week. These will be exact ( within .001" ) copies of my sample. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reconbob Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 I am sure you know what you are doing but using tolerances of 0.001" on a toolsuch as a barrel wrench is needless precision and therefore needless additional expense.Even the parts of the gun - the receiver, the trigger frame, the bolt, etc. etc. do not havetolerances that tight. For what this wrench does and how it is used I would think tolerancesof 0.005" or even 0.010" would be fine....and lower the cost of the wrench without in anyway reducing its quality or usefulness. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ppgcowboy Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 Is there a video showing how to remove and replace a video? Bob can you do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sig Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 Is there a video showing how to remove and replace a video? Bob can you do this?StannI posted a couple videos in an earlier post in this thread. https://www.youtube....h?v=mE7DaFuatNghttps://www.youtube....h?v=g2DSjpygJ4o https://www.youtube....h?v=mE7DaFuatNg https://www.youtube....h?v=g2DSjpygJ4o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gijive Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 Is there a video showing how to remove and replace a video? Bob can you do this?Check out post # 26 by site owner Dave Albert, it has three links to a video of the barrel removel of Cot Thompson # 5487. http://www.machinegunboards.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19909&page=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Iannamico Posted December 15, 2019 Report Share Posted December 15, 2019 I have one of D.R.'s bbl wrench that he made to remove the stub off the parts kits. It has a full wrap around piece and it clears the sight and slides under the forearm mount. I believe the LARGE nut to tighten around the bbl is 1 1/2" and use aimpact gun to tighten. I have removed quite a few bbl's from the rec. stub and takes some force to remove. One stub took5 hits with a 4lb. hammer with a 16" crescent wrench on the stub (striking the wrench handle).t If pictures are needed I can post Weasel An easy way to remove a barrel from a receiver stub, is to weld a large nut onto the stub and use an air wrench on it, they USUALLY spin right off. M1 barrels are general harder to remove because often they have been re-parkerized with the barrel intact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ppgcowboy Posted December 16, 2019 Report Share Posted December 16, 2019 (edited) Thanks Michael and Chuck, not sure how I missed this. Edited February 5, 2020 by ppgcowboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtriggerman Posted December 17, 2019 Report Share Posted December 17, 2019 I am sure you know what you are doing but using tolerances of 0.001" on a tool such as a barrel wrench is needless precision and therefore needless additional expense. Even the parts of the gun - the receiver, the trigger frame, the bolt, etc. etc. do not have tolerances that tight. For what this wrench does and how it is used I would think tolerances of 0.005" or even 0.010" would be fine....and lower the cost of the wrench without in any way reducing its quality or usefulness. Bob I would have to respectfully disagree. Barrel bushings "should be" as absolutely close to barrel OD diameter taper as can be made. Barrels are very soft and it takes very little pressure in a press or vise to inward bulge a bore if the bushing is not mated perfectly. Don't ask me how I know..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim c 351 Posted December 17, 2019 Report Share Posted December 17, 2019 About 5 years ago I found myself at Ohio Ordnance Works and Bob Landies was giving me a tour of his factory.When we arrives at the work station of one of the gunsmiths, I ask Bob's permission to ask a question about Thompson barrel removal. I ask how the grip hanger was dealt with.The reply was the grip hanger was ignored. The gunsmith said he gripped the barrel in front of the grip hanger.I replied that I thought such action would torque/twist the barrel and ruin it.The gunsmith said he prevented that from happening by inserting a precise fitting steel rod into the length of the barrel.I found that interesting, but I never tried it.FWIWJim C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sig Posted December 18, 2019 Report Share Posted December 18, 2019 Thanks Miichael and Chuck, not sure how I missed this.Those videos were made primarily to document the effort to uncover a hidden serial number and begin the research of what turned out to be a very infamous and valuable Thompson. Although, the videos show much of the actual process not all was shown. When we see the product(s) mohawk64 produces, perhaps we can do a pictorial showing that process better and in sequence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mohawk64 Posted December 18, 2019 Report Share Posted December 18, 2019 I should have pictures and pricing posted by Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weasel Posted December 20, 2019 Report Share Posted December 20, 2019 I have one of D.R.'s bbl wrench that he made to remove the stub off the parts kits. It has a full wrap around piece and it clears the sight and slides under the forearm mount. I believe the LARGE nut to tighten around the bbl is 1 1/2" and use aimpact gun to tighten. I have removed quite a few bbl's from the rec. stub and takes some force to remove. One stub took5 hits with a 4lb. hammer with a 16" crescent wrench on the stub (striking the wrench handle).t If pictures are needed I can post Weasel An easy way to remove a barrel from a receiver stub, is to weld a large nut onto the stub and use an air wrench on it, they USUALLY spin right off. M1 barrels are general harder to remove because often they have been re-parkerized with the barrel intact. I sold a large stub on GB for $325. Most folks want to keep them. They are hard to come by these days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rimcrew Posted December 20, 2019 Report Share Posted December 20, 2019 I should have pictures and pricing posted by Friday. It's almost Friday!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mohawk64 Posted December 20, 2019 Report Share Posted December 20, 2019 I will post pictures and prices on a different thread tonight. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtriggerman Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 About 5 years ago I found myself at Ohio Ordnance Works and Bob Landies was giving me a tour of his factory. When we arrives at the work station of one of the gunsmiths, I ask Bob's permission to ask a question about Thompson barrel removal. I ask how the grip hanger was dealt with. The reply was the grip hanger was ignored. The gunsmith said he gripped the barrel in front of the grip hanger. I replied that I thought such action would torque/twist the barrel and ruin it. The gunsmith said he prevented that from happening by inserting a precise fitting steel rod into the length of the barrel. I found that interesting, but I never tried it. FWIW Jim CThat's how we did it at West Hurley. No barrel insert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSMG28 Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 About 5 years ago I found myself at Ohio Ordnance Works and Bob Landies was giving me a tour of his factory.When we arrives at the work station of one of the gunsmiths, I ask Bob's permission to ask a question about Thompson barrel removal. I ask how the grip hanger was dealt with.The reply was the grip hanger was ignored. The gunsmith said he gripped the barrel in front of the grip hanger.I replied that I thought such action would torque/twist the barrel and ruin it.The gunsmith said he prevented that from happening by inserting a precise fitting steel rod into the length of the barrel.I found that interesting, but I never tried it.FWIWJim C Jim and xtriggerman, Unfortunately, the approach used at OOW can and does damage the barrel. If you grip the barrel too tightly with this approach, it crushes the barrel into the bore. I have the utmost respect for Bob Landies and his staff and their excellent work, and Bob is a good friend, but their technique described above is flawed. They have replaced two barrels for me in the past, and both of them had the barrel crushed where the wrench was applied. The barrels shot fine with 45ACP ammo, but I could feel the restriction when cleaning the barrel, and I could not install the 22LR insert because of the restriction. I later acquired Doug's tools, and have removed and replaced several barrels with them with no problem or damage. Gripping the barrel at the breach end is definitely the right technique to avoid damage to the barrel. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mohawk64 Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 I agree. The parts I will be making grab the barrel at the breech end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim c 351 Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 (edited) Roger & Xtriggerman,Very interesting and thanks for replying.This subject and info should be saved somewhere, both for potential West Hurley buyers and those considering having OOW rebarrel their TSMG.There must be a proper place in the pinned section for the question and reply.Jim CPS-- Roger did you inform Bob Landies of the problem.?? It would be doing him a favor.Would you prefer I inform him?? Edited December 21, 2019 by jim c 351 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtriggerman Posted December 21, 2019 Report Share Posted December 21, 2019 About 5 years ago I found myself at Ohio Ordnance Works and Bob Landies was giving me a tour of his factory. When we arrives at the work station of one of the gunsmiths, I ask Bob's permission to ask a question about Thompson barrel removal. I ask how the grip hanger was dealt with. The reply was the grip hanger was ignored. The gunsmith said he gripped the barrel in front of the grip hanger. I replied that I thought such action would torque/twist the barrel and ruin it. The gunsmith said he prevented that from happening by inserting a precise fitting steel rod into the length of the barrel. I found that interesting, but I never tried it. FWIW Jim CJim and xtriggerman, Unfortunately, the approach used at OOW can and does damage the barrel. If you grip the barrel too tightly with this approach, it crushes the barrel into the bore. I have the utmost respect for Bob Landies and his staff and their excellent work, and Bob is a good friend, but their technique described above is flawed. They have replaced two barrels for me in the past, and both of them had the barrel crushed where the wrench was applied. The barrels shot fine with 45ACP ammo, but I could feel the restriction when cleaning the barrel, and I could not install the 22LR insert because of the restriction. I later acquired Doug's tools, and have removed and replaced several barrels with them with no problem or damage. Gripping the barrel at the breach end is definitely the right technique to avoid damage to the barrel. Roger At West Hurley, we used a pair of well used 2x4's as the barrel collars. It was certainly a cheesy way of doing it and it exemplifies the cheap nature of George Numrich who owned everything that went on at AO threw equaly cheap Ira Trast, his presiding minion over AO. I applaud the workmanship that goes into a proper set of barrel vise bushing collars with grip extension cut away. Even with this best arrangement you must be very careful not to over tighten the collar so the 2 short contact points don't dimple in the bore. My standard barrel vice uses collar bushings 2" deep and even with a matched taper bushing, its easy to crush the bore by over tightening. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anjong-ni Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 The Russian-return kits have barrels with fine machining-grinding marks on the fins that appear to NEVER have been gripped by a "steel barrel wrench". How did A-O-C and Savage install them so perfectly? I think I'll continue to R & R the barrels with sacrificial aluminum blocks to prevent rounding the fins off...Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mohawk64 Posted December 24, 2019 Report Share Posted December 24, 2019 (edited) The wrenches that I am making will not Mar the fins ( provided the operator is capable) Edited December 24, 2019 by mohawk64 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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