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Richardson Barrel Clamp


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Sig - if you get one - let me borrow it too! http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/laugh.gif

 

I bought the one that was on ebay from a different maker a while ago. I can't fault the design, but it does not hold tight enough to get the barrel free on my gun. Since I have a shoooter and not just a scrap reciever chunk, I need something that will preserve the gun. The Richardson model seems to be the only one that will work.

 

There was one a long time ago on one of the auctions, I snoozed on it. Anyone here get it (and want to share or sell it)?

 

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Sig,

 

This is the one have. It may work for you.... I believe the maker of these in on the board!

 

http://www.gunbroker.com/auction/ViewItem....p?Item=41111627

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QUOTE (giantpanda4 @ Dec 3 2005, 10:38 AM)
I can't fault the design, but it does not hold tight enough to get the barrel free on my gun. Since I have a shoooter and not just a scrap reciever chunk, I need something that will preserve the gun.

Mike,

 

Try taking a piece of emery cloth (cut to fit around the barrel) and place it it grit side out in the barrel vise. In other words, the smooth side of the cloth should wrap around the barrel fins near where it meets the receiver. Tighten the vice and try turning the receiver with a padded wrench. The grip of the abrasive side of the emery cloth against the barrel vise may give you the added friction you need. Doug Richardson even recommends using this method with his barrel wrench. It's worth a try. If you have already tried this and it didn't work you may need to remove the compensator and try Doug's Heavy Duty barrel wrench.

 

Good luck!

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GI Jive,

 

Wouldn't the abrasive from the other side of the paper still cut through and possibly leave marks on the barrel? Have you seen any do that? Unfortunately my 28 has a "good" park job, though I would prefer blue it is in good enough shape that I do not want to mess it up.

 

The barrel vise clamps on the fins - if it slips with abrasives present - probably would not be good.

 

I may try it anyway - someday I gotta see the "real" s/n! Thanks for the tip!

 

Sig - sorry I stole the thread - hope it still pertains.....!

 

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QUOTE (giantpanda4 @ Dec 5 2005, 01:35 PM)


Wouldn't the abrasive from the other side of the paper still cut through and possibly leave marks on the barrel? Have you seen any do that? Unfortunately my 28 has a "good" park job, though I would prefer blue it is in good enough shape that I do not want to mess it up.

The barrel vise clamps on the fins - if it slips with abrasives present - probably would not be good.

Mike,

 

I have used Richardson's barrel wrench with emery, just as he recommends without any problem. If it slips, the cloth side is against the barrel fins and doesn't do any harm. If you keep turning while it is slipping it could wear some of the finish, especially on a blued barrel. Use a finer grade of emery, not a particularly course grade.

 

If it slips with emery, it may be because you can't get the screws tight enough for the vise to grip the barrel. Your gun may have been parkerized with the barrel on it, which might make it very difficult to remove. Try it gently and see if it still slips.

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Written by Doug Richardson

 

 

I make two kinds of barrel wrenches. Both have recently been redesigned to improve their performance and strength and to be able to make them on my automatic machining centers in order to increase production. The Heavy Duty Barrel Wrench is designed to break any Thompson barrel loose from the receiver but it does require that the front sight and/or compensator be removed. My Universal Barrel Wrench does not require the front sight and/or compensator be removed, but it does not have the clamping power that the HD model has. The design improvement increases the clamping. As far as wrapping emory cloth around the barrel is concerned, I am not sure where that came from. There is a problem with many aftermarket barrels because they are made undersize and will not be held properly by my wrenches. With those barrels a wrap is necessary. My own experience removing hundreds of original barrels with my HD wrench is that they do not slip and I use no wrap. There have been times when I have used a 6 foot steel bar for a handle and bounced my former 220 pounds on the bar end, but the barrels did come off and the wrench did not slip. The way the HD wrench is designed, there should be no need for a wrap and no danger of slipping if tightened properly. (As a side note, never use brass or aluminum directly against steel because the steel will pick up bits of the brass or aluminum.) A few months ago I was able to make stock of my entire line of tools, including the Universal wrenches. Unfortunately, the Univeral is now again sold out and I am getting low on the other tools. The Universal wrench has always been a problem for me because it took too much time to make. Now that I am making the body part on my automatic machines and am currently having forming dies made to stamp the strap, I should be able to make enough stock to last for a while when I finally get my vision problem resolved. (The eight operation that was supposed to fine tune my vision ended up very badly, destroying my vision almost completely. Although it is a temporary set back it has, never-the-less, really screwed up my life. I thought sure I would be making receivers by now.)

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