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Info on 1918 Part Markings


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Are these the only stampings on the BAR? Is it a Winchester gun, if so, the easy one is the W stamp.

The others, I have no idea.

Thanks for posting,

Darryl

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Are these the only stampings on the BAR? Is it a Winchester gun, if so, the easy one is the W stamp.

The others, I have no idea.

Thanks for posting,

Darryl

Colt July 1918 TY for any help. I did try all my books but might have missed them.

Eric

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Looks to be mismatched/ replaced parts. All the markings on my Winchester are W marked. The other odd markings there are explanations for, but I don't recall them. I'd have to tear mine down to check and see what all that looks like. Haven't done that in at least 10 years? You need to use a real gauge and most of the wear occurs in the throat anyhow so I've found the "bullet test" to be fairly worthless. A set of gauges when buying barrels that can be 750 and up are priceless. I've walked away from pristine looking barrels that end up gauging 7 or more that I would have previously bought (and did at times and got burned). HTH

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Looks to be mismatched/ replaced parts. All the markings on my Winchester are W marked. The other odd markings there are explanations for, but I don't recall them. I'd have to tear mine down to check and see what all that looks like. Haven't done that in at least 10 years? You need to use a real gauge and most of the wear occurs in the throat anyhow so I've found the "bullet test" to be fairly worthless. A set of gauges when buying barrels that can be 750 and up are priceless. I've walked away from pristine looking barrels that end up gauging 7 or more that I would have previously bought (and did at times and got burned). HTH

Thanks so much for the information. I think I stole the thing and have shot it at least 10 mags. Flawless function. It was one of my first guns from Ruben and didn't know enough to take it apart or check for internals. Overall, I am very happy. Anybody think I should try and match all the parts?

I'm going to get gauges today and check the throat.

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Should work. Fulton Armory makes a reproduction of the GI gauge - http://www.fulton-armory.com/throaterosiongaugegispec30-06.aspx

 

You may be able to find them for less with some searching.

Another - http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/throat-erosion-gauge/10004-saami-custom-throat-gauge.html

 

While mostly aimed at the competition target shooter this article will give you some additional information on measuring for throat erosion.

 

http://www.fulton-armory.com/%5Cfaqs%5CM14-FAQs%5CTEGauge.htm

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Thanks very much. I just ordered the gauge and read the article but he said it's for most but mainly the m14

I looked at Jims book and the war dept. manual and Hodges book. I cannot find the throat specs for my 1918.

Any help is appreciated. Having a lot of fun with all this. Quite interesting.

Eric

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The fulton gauge Roscoe linked you to will work on the BAR. As pointed out in the article you can also insert it into the muzzle to get a relative reading. There are separate gauges for that, but again they are relative. The point of the gauge at all is if your BAR gauges a 7, you are close to end of reasonable accuracy and it means your muzzle has corresponding wear. Course it's a MG, so that's not quite so important as a Garand. If it's 10 or more you may be looking at replacement? Should you be scouting for a new barrel, the gauge will be priceless since guys ask $500 or more for these barrels and some are heavily used and take offs vs. new and you can't tell by looking at the outside! The M14 instructions in the article are applicable to everything, just not necessarily the same gauges, though you actually sort of can use them, but the scale is off in a .308.

 

As to the parts, you could spend time looking for W parts, but the odds of finish matching, etc. are not that good and if the gun runs as is, I'd leave it alone and maybe stock the W parts for a rainy day, I would not change them out and then shoot the gun. HTH

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Thanks very much. I just ordered the gauge and read the article but he said it's for most but mainly the m14

I looked at Jims book and the war dept. manual and Hodges book. I cannot find the throat specs for my 1918.

Any help is appreciated. Having a lot of fun with all this. Quite interesting.

Eric

 

Specs are the same for any US GI 30-06 cal rifle.

 

Depot level repair manuals are available and a good investment.

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Thanks guys. I will report back after i get the gauge. Feel free to be specific on any books or manuals i should buy and i will. It's nice sitting out back in Florida and reading these things. I have learned a lot.

Eric

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Eric,

 

Have you taken the BAR to the range yet?

 

I took out my 1918 receivered R75 several weeks ago and

am seeing an oddity. The shell casings are dented from what appears

to be a heavy ejector strike which may have caused a couple of failure to eject scenarios.

I'm looking into the root cause now.

 

Darryl

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Eric,

 

Have you taken the BAR to the range yet?

 

I took out my 1918 receivered R75 several weeks ago and

am seeing an oddity. The shell casings are dented from what appears

to be a heavy ejector strike which may have caused a couple of failure to eject scenarios.

I'm looking into the root cause now.

 

Darryl

Yes and I put about 10 mags thru it. I did not look at the cases but it ran great. I used the PPU 30.06. I plan on going again soon and will save a few cases and look them over good.

Eric

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Eric,

 

Have you taken the BAR to the range yet?

 

I took out my 1918 receivered R75 several weeks ago and

am seeing an oddity. The shell casings are dented from what appears

to be a heavy ejector strike which may have caused a couple of failure to eject scenarios.

I'm looking into the root cause now.

 

Darryl

Yes and I put about 10 mags thru it. I did not look at the cases but it ran great. I used the PPU 30.06. I plan on going again soon and will save a few cases and look them over good.

Eric

Is the m1918 and the A2 the same gas tube? I figure I can use a later one and save the early one?

Thanks

Eric

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Thanks very much.

Something else interesting. I found the "wma" on original gun parts, with original serial numbers.

Is it possible the W could stand for something else? I am clinging to hope it has the original parts. My understanding the parts and parts kits were generally the same manufacture.

Eric

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Two different variations each requiring a different regulator.

 

A very good article on the differences in gas regulators and tubes.

 

http://www.90thidpg.us/Equipment/Articles/BARGas/

How about the piston?

Thanks

Eric

 

Other than how the end is attached the two type pistons are the same, work in either type gas tube.

 

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My 1943 NESA BAR has (what appears to be) the original NESA barrel with the appropriate date for the guns serial number. I have owned this one for 33 years and, in my younger days, shot the hell out of it. My barrel gauges 2 on the muzzle wear, and 6 on the throat wear, but it still shoots reasonably accurately at 200 - 300 yards without any evidence of "key-holing".

 

The US TM9-1211 manual dated "September, 1947" has a chart on pages 20-21 that gives the "serviceability requirements" for BARs in three columns:

1. In the hands of Troops, 2. to accompany troops overseas, and 3. to be placed in storage for reissue. The maximum allowable throat erosion for "in the hands of troops" is .310, while that for weapons to be placed in storage for reissue is .306. Those standards would be seen as far too great a wear amount for a rifle, but not so for a machine gun. While I have spare barrels with much less wear, I have never felt the need to replace the original barrel until the shooting accuracy deteriorates.

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My 1943 NESA BAR has (what appears to be) the original NESA barrel with the appropriate date for the guns serial number. I have owned this one for 33 years and, in my younger days, shot the hell out of it. My barrel gauges 2 on the muzzle wear, and 6 on the throat wear, but it still shoots reasonably accurately at 200 - 300 yards without any evidence of "key-holing".

 

The US TM9-1211 manual dated "September, 1947" has a chart on pages 20-21 that gives the "serviceability requirements" for BARs in three columns:

1. In the hands of Troops, 2. to accompany troops overseas, and 3. to be placed in storage for reissue. The maximum allowable throat erosion for "in the hands of troops" is .310, while that for weapons to be placed in storage for reissue is .306. Those standards would be seen as far too great a wear amount for a rifle, but not so for a machine gun. While I have spare barrels with much less wear, I have never felt the need to replace the original barrel until the shooting accuracy deteriorates.

Thanks for the info. I can't wait to get my throat gauge.

Eric

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