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Which Thompson Would You Blank?


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#1 Jay Baker

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Posted 08 October 2004 - 04:14 PM

Have choice between a Savage 1928A1, ex movie gun and a WH M1 in like new condition. Who has experience in this and what do you think is the best way to approach blanking?

Would be used in reenacting with 3rd Armored, all kinds of vehicles including M4 Sherman. Thanks for the advice in advance.
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#2 Jay Baker

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Posted 10 October 2004 - 06:27 AM

Ok, now I am looking for a barrel for blanking a WHM1. A shot out barrel would be fine rather than a good one. I know Kahr has new for 175. Also need front sight and pin. Who can help me?
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#3 Tman

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Posted 12 October 2004 - 10:27 AM

Jay,
I got PK to do me a quick change system for my WH28. It works great. I used my bulged barrel for blanks and a new one for ball. I like the 28 for reenacting because you can do both theaters, early or late war. You can even get into doing the gangster thing with a 28. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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#4 Jay Baker

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Posted 12 October 2004 - 11:56 AM

Thanks, Greg. How does the quick change system work? Isn't there a permanent modification to the receiver? Is it obvious?
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#5 PATHFINDER

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Posted 13 October 2004 - 07:34 AM

QUOTE (Jay Baker @ Oct 8 2004, 04:14 PM)

Would be used in reenacting with 3rd Armored, all kinds of vehicles including M4 Sherman.  Thanks for the advice in advance.

Want an M-36 Jackson or two? Running and driving but unrestored.

I would take the M1: you can still do both theaters.
You can BFA a weapon and still be able to use that barrel to fire live if it is done right.
Essentially you are just recessing the muzzle, This way the threads do not interfere with the bullet. like on a target rifle. You then thread the recessed area for the BFA.

Of course one must remove ones BFA BEFORE live fire!!! wink.gif Or Boy Howdy will you have something interfering with the bullet then!

True it shortens your barrel length a little but what’s the diff on a sub gun? This saves you the cost of a second barrel.
We had a thread that covered this a few weeks ago.
The next best alternative is the PK quick-change mod. I have seen one and you have to know what to look for to find it
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#6 Tman

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Posted 14 October 2004 - 01:22 PM

Jay,
I posted some pics of my gun here awhile back. Look them up and it will show how small the hole is in the reciever. Unless you know what to look for, you cannot tell that the mod was done. It's pretty basic. A small hole is drilled into the bottom of the receiver near the front grip mount. The hole is threaded for a small set screw. This screw mates up with a dimple that is milled into the threads of the barrel. Pretty ingenious. PK is the one who came up with the idea. If you can't find the thread, let me know and I will e-mail you the pics.

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#7 Jay Baker

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Posted 14 October 2004 - 02:56 PM

Thanks, Pathfinder. That method was recommend to me by another reeactor. But what in the world would I do with a M36. That's a deuce and half, isn't it?

Thanks for the reply Greg, but drilling the receiver gives me the heebie jeebies. I'll look it up, though.
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#8 PATHFINDER

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 07:18 AM

QUOTE (Jay Baker @ Oct 14 2004, 02:56 PM)
.  But what in the world would I do with a M36.  That's a deuce and half, isn't it?

Actually it is a WWII tank destroyer based on a Sherman hull and drive train. The first version was called an M-10 Wolverine. This was later re-turreted and up-gunned to use the US 90mm AA gun (like the 88mm AA used in German vehicles). This new version was called the M-36 Jackson. It has a powered, open topped turret with a bustle and looks frickin’ huge next to a Sherman!! That 90mm look like telephone pole sticking out of that turret.
Check out my web site. One is a GMC the other is a Ford and both were made in 1944.

ALLED ARMOR
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#9 Jay Baker

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 08:55 PM

Pathfinder,

You can't be serious. If I had one of those, I'd be walking on three legs. I remember see those posted here before. Nice, but how much restoration is needed. A guy I know spent twice the original purchase price restoring an M4.

If you had said M10, I would have known what you were referring to; when I looked up M36, all I could find was deuce and half truck. Now are you really selling those or is it someone you know? You've whetted my appetite, now.
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#10 Jay Baker

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 09:04 PM

Phil,

You make a convincing argument. But wouldn't it be better to use one of PK's grip mounts for the drilling and save the original Savage? Of course, I'm thinking of the 28. I might consider that for the M1 WH. Thanks for the information, Sir.
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#11 full auto 45

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Posted 15 October 2004 - 09:55 PM

Pathfinder- your in Indiana with those vehicles and I don't know about it!! WTF! That would make a person harder then Chinese arithmetic to be driving one of those!
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#12 PATHFINDER

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Posted 16 October 2004 - 10:50 AM

QUOTE (Jay Baker @ Oct 15 2004, 08:55 PM)
Now are you really selling those or is it someone you know?  You've whetted my appetite, now.

I am selling these, only one person in the US has these for sale because only one person in the US received them from the importer. I will be the person who demonstates the vehicles for you and I will be the person who puts them on the trailer for you while you stand there grinning. If you are putting any other name than mine on the check you will be paying a middle man.
They are automotivly sound and the transmissions are fully operational. Motors are Russian T-55 V-12 with about three times the HP and tourqe of the originals.
Where the most cost come from in Sherman restroations is not knowing what works and does not work, and then having to find parts and fix it. You know that these drive trains are complete and operational because you will see them work.
You will realisticaly spend about 10-15,000 restoring these (but they will be MINT for that price). I can show you where to get the track re-done for about 2,000 and will consult with you for free on the restorations.
One buyer made a 100% profit after resoring and selling one of these.
These would be great for re-enacting. any one interested in these can email me at AlliedArmor@lycos.com
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