I hope You guys forgive all My dumb questions. I am new to this board and You have all helped alot but I still have alot of questions. The latest one is How do You unscrew the compensator without scarring or mangling the metal. I have been trying to unscrew it by hand as I don't want to mar the finish but it is on there TIGHT. Any secrets to removing these?
Thanks
Maverick

How To Unscrew A Compensator Without Marring It
Started by
maverick4440
, Oct 08 2004 11:41 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 08 October 2004 - 11:41 PM
#2
Posted 09 October 2004 - 12:42 AM
I would like to hear an answer or suggestion also-
Isn't there a pin through it that has to be removed (don't have mine yet-F4 cleared but unit in another city)
THought I remembered a pin in it. WOuld be nice to know in order to remove lead buildup.
M
Isn't there a pin through it that has to be removed (don't have mine yet-F4 cleared but unit in another city)
THought I remembered a pin in it. WOuld be nice to know in order to remove lead buildup.
M
#3
Posted 09 October 2004 - 12:53 AM
You're not likely to be able to do it without special tools, i.e. a barrel wrench to hold the barrel and a compensator wrench such as the one shown in the Doug Richardson catalog (I'm assuming the compensator is not pinned). Basically, this wrench is a block of aluminum bored out to the exact size of the compensator. The block is split and equipped with bolts to tighten it on the compensator; it has a pipe handle for leverage. Failing this, if you have access to a machine shop you could try cushioning the compensator with a wrap of brass shim stock and chucking it in a collet (15/16"Dia. plus shim thickness for early model compensators or 1-1/32"Dia. plus shim thickness for later model). With a chucked dowel pin supporting the rear pilot hole, if you're lucky, you should be able to loosen the compensator using the frame handle for leverage. If you're not lucky, you might unscrew the barrel instead.
A hint: many of the West Hurley threaded compensators are installed with thread locking compound. so a little heat or solvent soak might help soften things up.
Best solution is a good gunsmith if you don't have the facilities to tackle this properly. Replacement barrels and compensators aren't cheap, not to mention the cost of having the replacements properly headspaced and aligned.
Do you really NEED to remove it?
A hint: many of the West Hurley threaded compensators are installed with thread locking compound. so a little heat or solvent soak might help soften things up.
Best solution is a good gunsmith if you don't have the facilities to tackle this properly. Replacement barrels and compensators aren't cheap, not to mention the cost of having the replacements properly headspaced and aligned.
Do you really NEED to remove it?
#4
Posted 09 October 2004 - 09:51 AM
QUOTE |
Do you really NEED to remove it? |
This is what you really have to ask yourself....If it is not pinned it is probobly a WH and you might not get it back on where it will stay without unscrewing during firing. ( A problem I have read about on the board).
Also there was a long thread here a few months ago that should still be in the archives about cleaning the fouling and lead build up in the comp with some good suggestions on what products to use without damaging it.
"If it ain't broke don't fix it."
#5
Posted 10 October 2004 - 10:32 AM
That's easy, just let some smaller caliber ammunition get into the barrel and blow it off the way I did on mine.

#6
Posted 10 October 2004 - 11:05 AM
Sgt Fox,
Nice to hear you're not bitter about your negative experience.
Nice to hear you're not bitter about your negative experience.
#7
Posted 11 October 2004 - 12:43 AM
Hey, what can I say?

