Wood Finish Not Faq
Posted 30 November 2004 - 10:50 AM
Thanks to all, TC
Posted 30 November 2004 - 11:27 AM
Each piece of wood has its own unique properties. If you want to stain just a little darker, you might try to stain thru the tung oil, but penetration will not be as deep. But if you are going a lot darker with something like jacobean or desire deeper penetration, remove the tung oil. The tung oil will protect the wood against your stain, so your stock might not stain uniformly. Why fight it? Remove the finish and start from scratch. That way you can use stain until you have the desired color. Then finish with hand rubbed tung oil or the finish of your choice. Formby's has both high and low gloss tung oil. I prefer several light applications of low gloss. Have fun and finish when the humidity is low if possible. IMHO.
Posted 30 November 2004 - 03:06 PM
Posted 30 November 2004 - 03:13 PM
Most "stains" on the market are not pure stains but consist of pigmented finishes, usually but not always oil based. The analine dyes, often called spirit dyes (that is what Brownells calls them) are analine dyes suspended in alcohol. Few professionals use oil based stains, partly because the quality of the pigments is low and apply them tends to mask the figure that makes us like wood in the first place. Analine dyes are the way to go but they do have drawbacks.
Penetration of dyes is seldom deep so the wood has to be ready to finish before the stain goes on as anything but the lightest sanding will go right through it. Using an alcohol based dye will raise the grain so it is important to dewhisker the stock completely before staining.
It is hard to duplicate the look of an original military stock from the times because it isn't so much a finish as a patina. The various oils have been oxidized and turned dark, grit and oil have filled the pores and the surface of the wood has become polished to a dull sheen. A good job duplicating this can be done but it takes time, patience and a bit of practice.
As for finishes, most of what passes for tung oil finishes are polyeurethane blends with little or no actual tung oil in them, Formbys has nearly no actual tung oil in it. Tung oil in its pure state gives better moisture protection than BLO but will build to little or no gloss. The gloss comes from the polyeurethane and to make it low gloss they add filler than turns the finish opaque which is why a few heavy coats of low gloss finish looks so plasticy. With that said, skillful use of it can do a fair job of duplicating the look/patina of an old stock.
A trick is to use a thin layer of the gloss to seal the wood after staining and then start applying BLO. The BLO doesn't soak in as much and you build up a finish faster.
As for applying stain over finish, that is called a wash coat. Winchester finished their stocks for years like that, the color was in the finish rather than in the wood. Remington stained the wood iteself on the Colt Thompsons. For most people at home it is hard to get a good looking finish with that technique that doesn't look plastic and artificial.
I speak from my experience as a custom stockmaker making exclusively wood for military guns.
Posted 30 November 2004 - 03:14 PM
It will give you the proper color, then I use coats of linseed oil, or tung oil, sanded between each coat until I get the sheen wanted. As PK states the color may suprise you - some wood will go dark even if it appears to be light prior to applying the stain.
Every piece of wood is different. I just finished a butt stock, pistol grip and front grip for a 28 - all the wood was from the same original piece and the color was different on the grip.
Posted 30 November 2004 - 03:52 PM
Posted 30 November 2004 - 04:50 PM
Posted 30 November 2004 - 09:40 PM
Great info, Thanks!
Nice stuff on your site, a pleasure to view.
Posted 01 December 2004 - 01:20 PM
Posted 01 December 2004 - 02:20 PM
The Pic below is that of a Deerslayer '21 Rear Grip. At this point there is still some more work involved. The Grip was sanded, sealed, and the Pic shows the very first coat of Shellac. In this instance I used a 3lb Cut of Garnet. The color is in the Shellac. This Grip was NOT stained. I will need to remove the top layer of Shellac, Stain, and utilizing Tung Oil for the top coat.
Posted 02 December 2004 - 02:46 PM