10 replies to this topic

[dalbert]

I own a West Hurley M1 Thompson, which I purchase NIB in the late 1980's. Since then, I have probably only put about 1500 rounds through it, and it runs great. For the last couple of years, there has been a problem developing with the metal piece attached to the fore-end stock, where it connects to the receiver. When I fire a magazine through it, the metal piece begins to travel forward, and the whole fore-end stock moves forward as a result. It's getting worse, and I usually keep the sling on very tight to make sure it does not separate from the weapon. Has anyone experienced this problem, and if so, what can be done to fix it? Does it have to be staked in place? Would a form of Lock-Tite aid in keeping it in place? Any help would be appreciated!

A picture of the problem:



A picture of the stock in normal position:



Just for fun, a picture link of the weapon:

http://www.sturmgewe...M1/My_WH_M1.JPG

Thanks!

David Albert
dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

[anticus]

You probably need to replace the fore grip frame. Normally the frame is held in place by the barrel-there should be a tab on the top rear of the grip frame that is held by the rear face of the barrel when the barrel is fully installed and screwed down. Look and see if that bit has broken off. If it's gone there's nothing but friction holding the assembly in place.

[PK.]

The integral tab that retains the grip mount from behind the barrel abutment shoulder is bending or broken. The grip mount should be replaced. This requires removal of the barrel.

There are two sizes of grip mounts, ½” and ¾” wide. The ½” were original on pre 1950 Thompsons and fit GI wood.

The best variety are one piece hardened steel; avoid the style with riveted in parts.

[dalbert]

I removed the fore-end stock, and pulled on the metal piece it attaches to (that keeps slipping forward), and I can see that the retention screw or stake under the barrel has sheared, so I guess I need to have the barrel removed and replace the parts as you instructed. As was stated in one of the replies, it is only being held in by friction.

Thank you very much for your insight into the problem. Now I have to figure out where I can have this kind of repair made. I'm a little uneasy about shipping it out.

Thanks!

David Albert
dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

[The1930sRust]

Ahem. You should consider sending the gun out to PK. I know of many folks who have had their TSMG's serviced by Paul. I shipped mine to him once, and am preparing to do so again. I'd contact him and ship before I'd let just anyone local even get close to it. There's more than meets the ear to removing a bbl and replacing properly....

[Panzerschreck]

PK did a fabulous job of making my WH M1 into a reliable, great looking shooter. Send it to him and you will not be disappointed.

Edited by Panzerschreck, 04 January 2005 - 11:32 AM.

[Bill in VA]

I had the same thing happen to me...the little tab that held the grip mount broke off. I have a spare grip mount but decided to try an easy way before removing the barrel. After removing the grip mount (it just slid off) I simply drilled and tapped a small hole and inserted a set screw...much easier than removing the barrel to replace the grip mount.

[Merry Ploughboy]

Hell, just wrap some duct tape around yer barrel.

That'll hold the damn thing.

Course if you wanna get real fancy, put in a big gob of JB Weld an then color up any stuff that squishes out with a black marker pen. (Apologies to Waffen un Bier for this suggestion).

[dalbert]

Merry Ploughboy's solution seems to be the most practical, and does not even require a trip to the hardware store!

Seriously, though, I appreciate all the advice, and I think I will be able to follow through with a solution as a result of your responses to my post.

Thanks!

David Albert
dalbert@sturmgewehr.com

[Norm]

Philohio,

Welding is like soldering....."The bigger the blob, the better the job!"

Norm

[Hawkeye_Joe]

Or......buy one of the forearm-barrel clamps that go over the barrel and the forearm and that should keep the grip bar in place and non-sliding when tightened down. And it's correct for the M1 Tommy.