I HAVE A AMERICAN HISTORICAL SOCIETY WEST HURLEY AO U.S. NAVY COMMEMORATIVE THOMPSON USN#25.
AFTER RECENTY FIRING THIS WEAPON I DISASSEMBLED THE GROUPS TO CLEAN IT.
THE BARREL WAS LOOSE AND CAME OUT WITH JUST MINOR TWIST.(IN FACT IT WAS APPARENTLY LOOSE AT RANGE,BUT I THOUGHT IT WAS THE COMPENSATOR.
THE BARREL AND RECIEVER HAVE NO STAMPS OR WITNESS MARKS THAT I CAN SEE. IT APPEARS TO HAVE 35 FINS NOT INCLUDING THE END FLANGE (RECIEVER END).
HOW DO I PROPERLY REASSEMBLE THE BARREL TO MAKE SURE IT IS ALIGNED?
I BOUGHT SOME BLUE LOCKTITE AND A SEARS STRAP WRENCH TO DO THIS.
I DID NOT SEE ANY SHIMS. CAN YOU ADVISE ON REASSEMBLY?
ALSO, I AM NOT SURE ON HOW TO TAKE DOWN THE RECIEVER GROUP..NO SPECIAL TOOLS FOR RECOIL SPRINGS ETC,HELP HERE WOULD BE GREAT.
Help
Started by
IUW-RVN68
, Sep 20 2003 01:47 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
IUW-RVN68
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Posted 20 September 2003 - 01:47 PM
#2
must
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Posted 20 September 2003 - 04:02 PM
I had the same problem with my WHM1 (the barrel was loose). I sent the gun to PK in Colorado to repair (there was alot of other problems to like too long of a bolt that was damaging the chamber). It was a WH bolt. When he got through with it, it runs like a charm. 
#3
PK.
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Posted 20 September 2003 - 07:06 PM
Special tools and experience are required to properly install a barrel to prevent future disappointments. This job is not expensive in itself and is better left to a professional.
#4
Norm
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Posted 21 September 2003 - 07:05 AM
The barrel has to be torqued on. PK is right, without the proper tools it will come loose again, or you can (and probably will) destroy the finish on the gun. 
Send it to PK, and he will put on to stay.
Norm
Send it to PK, and he will put on to stay.
Norm
#5
JimFromFL
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Posted 21 September 2003 - 09:04 PM
If you ensure the thread are clean and dry, the locktitle will work fine.
#6
PK.
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Posted 22 September 2003 - 12:09 PM
Phil, I appreciate the comments. If a barrel is properly installed, it should never “self tighten” and will stay aligned forever.
There are many variables to be considered when installing a barrel on a Thompson. A few of these include the stud on the grip mount, the surface of the receiver nose, depth of the hole and the flange on the barrel, the length of the barrel shank and the condition of the threads, burrs on everything not to mention the headspace and chamber dimensions. I know that it looks like a simple job; unscrew old barrel and screw on new one- but it ain’t the case most of the time. The wall of finned Thompson barrels is actually quite thin (.098) and these can be crushed or twisted fairly easily if the right tool and techniques aren’t applied.
None of this is to imply that I’m the only guy who can change out a Thompson barrel; ‘taint so. But, it is not for everyone. If you are going to attempt it, please do your homework and make sure you know what you are doing; it is more complicated that it would appear. All in all, it’s cheaper to allow an experienced gunsmith who has the tools to do the job right, the first time.
