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Help Id Thompson Parts Kit?


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#1 wdigeorge

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Posted 08 February 2005 - 04:56 PM

I have an USGI Thompson Parts kit that came along with a package I purchased. Can somebody help me ID this kit? I think it is a 1928. It's got a quick detach buttstock. I also have a Philly Ord.? (i think) dummy receiver with it.

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What is the kit worth? Thanks in advance.


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#2 wdigeorge

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Posted 08 February 2005 - 05:49 PM

Can't really assign an exact cost to it since I got it along with about $5k-$6k worth of rifles and parts as a package. I see them going for about $1k at OOW? and that's not including the dummy receiver.
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#3 deerslayer

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Posted 08 February 2005 - 08:33 PM

My estimate.
You got a 1928 parts kit. No lyman rear site so $900 for the parts kit plus the dummy receiver. Dummy could range from $150 to $500 plus depending upon who made it and if its aluminum or steel.
Dan

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#4 Z3BigDaddy

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Posted 09 February 2005 - 01:38 AM

Actually you can buy those kits for $845.00 out of AZ... Then the price of the reciever and sling.....
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#5 Roland, Headless Thompson Gunner

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Posted 09 February 2005 - 10:49 PM

I recently purchased the Omega 28 parts kit and it was pretty much what I expected with a few exceptions. I didn't get the 'L' sight, though I didnt really want one. The internals looked NOS but the lower frame had the serial number scratched out and re-stamped and then another serial number scraweled in, in very light scribe? The finish was not NOS and not what I had hoped for. The furniture had a few dings but not too bad. Sling hardware was milled. No receiver parts. Cutts was the later model. Luck of the draw I guess.
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#6 gijive

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Posted 10 February 2005 - 09:51 AM

QUOTE (Roland @ Headless Thompson Gunner,Feb 9 2005, 10:49 PM)
The internals looked NOS but the lower frame had the serial number scratched out and re-stamped and then another serial number scraweled in, in very light scribe? 

Roland,

That was common on rebuilt guns that had new grip frames installed. The frame was then renumbered to match the receiver it was placed on. Apparently, this practice was discontinued on later rebuilds. It was probably only done on the earliest rebuilds. Many of the 1928 parts kits available lately have the grip frame number crossed out and a new number inscribed. I believe these guns were rebuilt Lend-Lease guns that were completely refurbished before shipment overseas. My raeson for thinking this is that the finish is the black oxide type that was consistent with the factory originals. I suppose they could have been rebuilt overseas, as some theorize, but the barrels and compensators are usually NOS and look unfired. To me, this indicates that the guns were placed in storage and never used. The mismatched grip frame and subsequent renumbering would be indicative of a US rebuild and shipment of a refurbished gun. That would also explain the the NOS looking internals. The finish wear on the frame and dings in the wood are probably just from long term storage.
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#7 wdigeorge

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Posted 12 February 2005 - 07:35 PM

Thanks guys for the input, I didn't know I was missing the good rear sight. It has something "simple" on the dummy receiver right now. The dummy receiver I believe is a Phily Ord. STEEL receiver. That sucker is HEAVY! No way it is alumin. I think there is an ATF letter somewhere along w/ the kit that I saw that was addressed to Philly Ordnance, that's why I think it is their receiver.

The only part that is not so "new" looking, that I can tell, is the barrel. It has some light surface rust and pitting near the wood handguard? areas, and although the barrel looks mirror and the grooves looks good, there is a "ring" about 1" behind the compensator? It's really hard to tell unless you look very closely down the muzzle of the rifle.

One of the old collectors told me it's okay and should still be okay to shoot but it's more of a shooter grade barrel than a collector piece. The ring is created by 2 rounds hitting eachother and expanding? He said that's common. Is that right?
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#8 wdigeorge

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Posted 15 February 2005 - 10:39 PM

Any thoughs?
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#9 Z3BigDaddy

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Posted 16 February 2005 - 11:50 PM

'Just my opinion, but you could get yourself into another stuck bullet situation by using this barrel with moderately powered ammo. If the bulge is great enough, a low powered bullet could reach that point, have the gas pressure escape past it, and stop there. If it had enough oomph to eject, cycle, and fire again, that would be a problem. But the barrel would probably not burst, as suggested by the sectioned barrel George showed me'

Wait you think a bullet moving lets say 600 fps at the point, is going to stop bcause the gas will go around it? If the barrel is cut off right there do you think the bullet would just drop to the ground? Nice theory but your thinking is just a little off I believe... It may effect the velocity a bit but nothing that you could tell without a chrono, if then...
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#10 Z3BigDaddy

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Posted 17 February 2005 - 06:07 PM

Unless you are talking a squib load I don't think "your" theory holds up..... Any normal or even slightly less load is not being stopped by a bulge in the barrel... unless it is a huge mofo bulge perhaps.... good Lord revolvers lose more gas by "jumping" the gap than could possibly go around a bullet in a bulge... And they continue there way out the other end of the barrel with ease... I'm not an engineer but I do apply common sense... And common sense says you are off.....
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#11 Z3BigDaddy

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Posted 17 February 2005 - 08:29 PM

"Sometime, try shooting a bullet that is about .002" less than bore diameter in any revolver...or pistol. It will go pf-f-ft, and it may or may not go all the way out the muzzle."

Well as a matter of fact I used to put 9MM bullets in my .357 Automag all the time because I wanted the light weight and more speed, and those bullets would create hellaious velocity... They certainly did not pfft out the barrel...... I'm sure someone has done testing on this maybe Ackley or someone....

Until you can prove otherwise I say your line is outa line...


Second to Last post.....

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#12 AZDoug

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 02:41 AM

QUOTE (gijive @ Feb 10 2005, 07:51 AM)
QUOTE (Roland @ Headless Thompson Gunner,Feb 9 2005, 10:49 PM)
The internals looked NOS but the lower frame had the serial number scratched out and re-stamped and then another serial number scraweled in, in very light scribe? 

Roland,

That was common on rebuilt guns that had new grip frames installed. The frame was then renumbered to match the receiver it was placed on. Apparently, this practice was discontinued on later rebuilds. It was probably only done on the earliest rebuilds. .

Hmmm.

Maybe that explains the S-17175 that is lightly scrawled onto my Colt lower, SN 12571. between the Colt SNnumber and the grip, though the original SN was not over stamped.

I would be curious to know where 12571 was betwenn 1921 and the time I received the lower.

Doug
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#13 Z3BigDaddy

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 12:12 PM

"I guess I've learned again that it's not productive to debate a technical question with somebody who has never done it. It's so much easier to count the number of teeth in the mouth of an actual horse, rather to endlessly debate how many there might be. "

LOL you got that right... Since we're counting teeth, how many times have you "personaly seen" a bullet stuck in a barrel caused by a bulge? You don't have to be exact... 5 times? 10 times? How many times have you even "heard" of such a thing happening? You did all the testing give the results on bullets lodged in the barrel.....

9mm is .355 and 38 is .357 btw... As far a bullet speed, I guess the chrono could have also been wrong... And your exact statement was.... "Sometime, try shooting a bullet that is about .002" less than bore diameter in any revolver...or pistol. It will go pf-f-ft, and it may or may not go all the way out the muzzle." Which is just plain b.s.. Talk about counting teeth.... LOL But I will concede that accuracy was diminished.....

I give you real life situations, and you just mock me and say I'm and idiot and tell me of your expertise? Post again when you have "actual" evidence.......


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#14 Z3BigDaddy

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 07:50 PM


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#15 wdigeorge

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Posted 19 February 2005 - 12:08 AM

Oops, didn't mean to start a debate here guys.

I guess to be on the safe side I'll call this barrel for "display/dummy" gun use only if I put it up for sale. Just want to get enough information so I can at least describe this kit correctly.

Thanks for the input guys.
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#16 Z3BigDaddy

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Posted 19 February 2005 - 04:28 PM

Not your problem actually kinda got me wondering just how stoopid I am... I happen to have a damaged barrel, and I'm going to take it out with my chrono, which is in the attic somewhere, and find out what the "real" life truth is. I also have a pos revolver that I can ream out to test the pfft theory of bullets... It's all just good fun to me.... Maybe all my past experiences are just corrupted memory chips in my brain....
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