My gut tells me ~$35K. Not as collectible as the PPSH. 
 

All matching. 

Mismatched guns are most often bring backs that were disassembled and shipped, or guns “built” once parts were shipped to the US.  

The PPSH 41 drums, besides having to be hand fit to each gun may also need maintenance as you degrease (cosmoline) them and put them into  action. For mine, the degrease part was easy, I just soaked them in turpentine for a few hours then, using a tooth brush and daubs, cleaned any and all visible residue. 

The issue this time however, was that the units refused to wind more than three clicks, which was not sufficient to load the full complement of ammo. 

The solution, and what I did for all 10 of my drums:

Remove the front cover by depressing the back spine and rotating the cover lock off the front spline. Rotate the spring assembly one click, which moves the hinged follower about 1/8 of a turn and releases all pressure on it. There is a small set screw which is easily taken out. Remove the follower. Now, while holding onto the spring assembly tightly, depress the rear spine and allow the assembly to unwind once click at a time until it is fully unwound. 

At this point, start rewinding the assembly once click at a time until the follower mount point is about the same location as when  you removed it. This should be three or four clicks. Make sure the bullet guide is fully rotated clockwise until the stop tab rests against the magazine stop. Reattach the follower, insert and tighten the holding set screw. Now the magazine is fully ready to wind (up to 8 clicks) and load and will function great. 

• Barrel
• Upper receiver
• Stock
• Bolt
• Trigger assembly
• Lower receiver tang

If you have these six, then your gun is matched!

Picked up a polish parts kit from Robert RTG in 22’ as well as a 9mm barrel from apex. The kit was freaking nice, probably unissued. 
 

submitted my form 1 immediately, approval took about 30 days back in spring of 23’. I got started working on the trigger mechanism while I was waiting for the form 1 to be approved. Many guys do the striker fired design, nothing wrong with that, I was just determined to make a hammer fired mechanism work. I read that an sks trigger group will work but never saw a good write up on it. So I bought an “incomplete” sks trigger group for $40 on apex and made it work with the ppsh trigger housing. I didn’t make any mods to the sks trigger at first, wanted to see what would work /fail first so I pinned the sks trigger housing to the ppsh trigger housing. 
 

I then had to machine the lower receiver of the ppsh to make room for the sks hammer and disconnect or to protrude through. I welded an extension to the disconnector so that it engaged with the ppsh bolt, it just needed to be .200 longer and .060 to one side, talk about precise welding. This disconnector is important bc it prevents someone from pulling the trigger while the bolt was out of battery. I welded in a simple blocking bar to the lower, and notched the ppsh trigger housing accordingly and wala I had a semi auto lower. 
 

Now for the fun part: The bolt modifications. I still removed .900” from the back end of the bolt just like a sticker fire design but didn’t reuse the cut off material. I removed the fixed firing pin, turned my own firing pin housing on a lathe that fit the same hole (thru hole was for an ar style firing pin), relocated the recoil spring to the side of the bolt by machining a pocket with a ball end mill that the recoil spring drops into, machined out the base of the bolt with a ramp that would cock the hammer after being fired, started with an AR firing pin but ended up having to modify it slightly, made a firing pin extension out of tool steel for the hammer to strike, and lastly welded in a blocking bar to the upper receiver as well as a respective slot on the bolt for it to ride.
 

Many guys who run 9mm in ppsh mags have nosedive issues as well. The .220” difference is cartridge length is the culprit. I was no exception to those flaws. I have modified my drums with .187” steel spacers that I welded in place but haven’t gotten around to modifying my stick mags yet. The spacers worked good after I dremelled the each spacer into an acceptable feed ramp.
 

No issues welding the receiver back together, it’s straight enough, I see flaws but most guys don’t. I recommend using an aluminum or brass backing plate to minimize cleanup on the inside of the reciever. It’s hard to clean up welds on the inside of the receiver with a grinder, a dremel works but it’s time consuming.
 

fitting the barrel was simple enough. I cut the 1/2-28 threads off the front. I wanted an “original” length barrel to utilize the primitive muzzle brake. If you leave the threads, the barrel sticks past the front of the brake. Didn’t worry too much about recrowning, just lightly sanded the muzzle. You must match drill the barrel to the trunnion. I set the barrel to my desired depth in the trunnion. You could bottom the shoulder of the barrel out on the trunnion, which is probably what you would do with a tok barrel, but I placed my barrel closer to the magazine due to the .220 difference in cartridge length of the 9mm. The barrel was soft enough that a new TiN coated 1/2 drill bit worked great, go slow. 
 

finished off the build with armor black cerakote and she’s looking good.
 

All in: 

$650 parts kit (now they are $500 with a 9mm barrel on Bowmanarms.com)

threaded barrel from Atlantic: $150

sks trigger group from apex: $40

3 drums($80ea): $240

3 stick mags ($50 ea): $150  

Tax stamp to the man: $200

Total: $1430

Honestly this was a big project in my book, I was happy to take it on but I easily have a few hundred hours invested. Nothing cooler than shooting my ppsh though next to some guys at the range that just dumped over a grand into their PCC. The ppsh draws some cool attention for sure. 
 

over 1000 rounds of 147gr AAC through it at this point with many hick ups. Most of my failure to feed issues improved though after I modified the drum feed lips. Running much better now. 

Happy to answer any questions about this build, just had to get this off this off my chest. 
 

cheers, 

Thanks ! 

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1091284688

It's really very easy, the left rear of the feed lip must be notched to clear the PPD's ejector to allow the mag to seat.  This is very easy to see upon inserting a PPSh drum or mag into the PPD-40 with a clear view of the ejection port.  Don't remove any more metal than necessary (not a lot is required) and doing this alteration will allow you to put up those ultra-rare PPD-40 drums and run much more plentiful PPSh drums and stick mags without issue.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1086362259

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1086362123

Anyway, in a range of Glock users rapid firing, this gun caught their attention! 
 

Both my PPSH’s are 1944 Star guns.  Killer!

My plan is to cut a disc of 7 ga. (.180") sheet metal that fits snugly inside the drum on top of the cartridges with a hole in the middle to clear the clockspring assy. This would hold the cartridges back in the drum and prevent them from nosediving. Does this sound workable? Does anyone have another solution?

The S&B ammo would not drive the bolt back far enough to sear up resulting in a runaway.  Milsurp Romanian ammo worked 100%. The S&B stuff worked in my Yugoslav M49/57 which has a lighter recoil spring.  Approach commercial ammo carefully in a PPSh41 or PPS43, it could be a safety isssue.  There had been some previous discussion about using 7.63 Mauser ammo as a way to slow the ROF down. Based on the above it's probably not a great idea

And if you have one you're looking to sell PM me. I've had it with the $#^$@% plunger type loader

Anybody?

Very nice gun!