deerslayer

Kahr and west hurley thompson receivers all have the same acme threads. But some receivers are a bit tight and poorly done. My advice is if you can't screw a barrel in by hand, don't force it. The threads on the barrel may need dressing a little bit in all directions to ease assembly. Major and minor.. and sometimes even the width.

Or call 641-390-0878

Email me danblockstocks@gmail.com

Remaining threads in barrel look good for what I described above. There isn't the pressure in this barrel like in a bolt action Hi power rifle. You will be fine.

Receiver threads can be undersize to some barrels fit. If there is still receiver threads left, I would clean out the bad stuff, make the barrel threads major and minor a little undersize and screw it back in.

Maybe $1500 value. Drums are ammo sensetive for length. Rear sights held on by pop rivets which will fail.

I've tried three different suppressors on a Thompson and one integral Thompson supressed Barrel. None are as quiet as desired.

How? You can make a jig, like a doweling jig for wood. You can put it in a mill and machine a tiny little flat spot in the right place to start a drill bit without walking. You might start from both sides and meet in the middle as a way to be sure you go straight through. Start with a 3/32, then to 1/8, then finish 9/64. Helps to have a gi pinned comp for reference to where the hole goes. It should intersection the barrel and the front sight to keep both in place. It will probably unscrew. You could send it to have the hole drilled. Then when you get it back you can screw it on and chase the hole carefully to go through the barrel edge.

Its been a while since I made a navy horizontal. I think i might have made the first from a picture. Dough Richardson sent me one and i made the best copy my hands would produce. Made a couple jigs for critical dimensions. Made a copy for Doug. And never had another request since. It should be a simple matter to widen the finger groove on the router table.

I used them after i stuck a subgun reamer into the chamber.

If there's ever a mag ban with grandfathered mags allowed then it's worth hundreds of dollars when fixed. Otherwise it's of very little value. $25 maybe.

Just finished rebuilding a Tommy 15. Does anyone have one of these? https://youtu.be/duqCi11kfRM?si=gkchjmwR3ZbbqZcO

I have used Indianapolis pins and they are fine. It's pretty hard to screw up that small part.

Did anybody look at the paperwork from the last previous transfer?

Thanks guys!

It makes sense to me that simply removing the rocker would satisfy the "full auto only" part of the law in Connecticut? You could leave the rocker pivot (selector) on the gun as turning it wouldn't do anything. Does anybody have any personal knowledge if this satisfies the law?

I remember when this issue started. Extractors were coming out of the bolt during normal firing. If it comes out when the bolt is fully recoiled into the receiver it can lock the bolt back and be a challenge to fix. Some guys started staking the extractor as mentioned above with generally good results reported. Kahr started pinning it in place. I think it's interesting that kahr didn't fix the problem by making sure the extractor and the corresponding extractor cut in the bolt arent made to the 1940's standard that still works perfectly well in vintage parts. Instead the new made parts quality is lower and requires a "fix". There was a time when the kahr guns extractor cut in the RECEIVER was changed from a broach cut (deep squared off slot) to a rotary tool cut. At that time putting a gi extractor into that gun would cause problems of not having enough clearance. The kahr extractors on the guns were rounded off to solve the clearance issue. There were a few guns I fixed by removing the barrel and enlarging the cut to allow clearance. Then you could put in a gi extractor. Kahr fairly soon started to make the rotary cut bigger. So that problem went away.

Dead trigger issue. Next time you get a dead trigger, remove the magazine and look from the bottom if the firing pin is forward or back. If back, the bolt may not be quite all the way forward (out of battery) and the disconnector is stopping it from firing. Giving the bolt a little push forward may solve that instance. More rounds through the gun will self polish the parts to likely eliminate this. If you firing pin was forward in the dead trigger instance then the sear didn't grab the firing pin. Fixing that would require a new firing pin that is fit correctly.

A gi extractor won't fit in the kahr bolt without a little adjusting of the slot. Specifically the round hole up front. But once fitted it won't move. You have to Notch the rear for the roll pin. Will it be necessary to change it? That depends if all the jams can be traced to a loose extractor.

FYI the "pin" that holds the extractor in place is a roll pin variety not the solid one.

Did it ever double? (Two bangs with one trigger pull). A firing pin that hasn't been caught by the sear will move forward with the bolt and cause a jam. It looks like your extractor is loose. In the picture it appears like the rim of the case has caught on the extractor (and it's been pulled forward) Next time you take out the bolt see if you can move it back and forth.

Just tap it gently in until it's just past flush. You will need a small punch. Try to stick the bolt in a vice while you do this. Test fit each direction first. The little splines may have a better grab in the hole one direction or the other. You want to put it in the direction that is the tightest. Not the easiest. You dont want it coming out in the middle of a recoil cycle while the bolt is back. That causes an incredible jam.

I didn't find any good video for removing the firing pin, so after learning what I could, I made a video to show this. Broken firing pin that I had welded was previously installed. I had welded it to test the length before starting the next project which will be to create a new firing pin. When that's complete I'll show how to put this all back together. What I did learn putting it together was that it was very difficult and worked best for me putting the trigger in last.

Ive shot a 1928 with a hybrid 46 supressor. I wouldnt call it quite hearing safe but its certainly quieter. But i don't have a decibel measurement. I also have an older costal .45 supressor that I'd say is less quiet than the hybrid ever though it's larger.

I did one of those for a customer. It went well. Nice and secure. Spun the adaptor so it would slide on, then milled the front sight so it would turn and lock.