MadDogDan

I will take them. Please message me with your mailing address and I will get the Postal Money Order out to you on Monday by way of Priority Mail.

So, is the kit back up for sale? Just checked GunBroker and nothing comes up.

It was when I sent mine in last May ... Looks like it changed ... From the ATF Is the chief law enforcement officer required to sign the law enforcement certification on ATF Form 1 or ATF Form 4? No. Effective July 13, 2016, the final rule “Machineguns, Destructive Devices and Certain Other Firearms; Background Checks for Responsible Persons of a Trust or Legal Entity With Respect to Making or Transferring a Firearm” amends the regulations to eliminate the requirement for a certification signed by a CLEO and instead adds a CLEO notification requirement. Prior to submission of the application to the Director, all applicants/transferees and responsible persons shall forward a completed copy of ATF Form 1 or ATF Form 4, or a completed copy of Form 5320.23, respectively, to the chief law enforcement officer of the locality in which the applicant or responsible person is located. The chief law enforcement officer is the local chief of police, county sheriff, head of the State police, State or local district attorney or prosecutor. If the transferee is not a licensed manufacturer, importer, or dealer qualified under this part and is a partnership, company, association, or corporation, for purposes of this section, it is considered located at its principal office or principal place of business; if the applicant/transferee is not a licensed manufacturer, importer, or dealer qualified under this part and is a trust, for purposes of this section, it is considered located at the primary location at which the firearm will be maintained. Last Reviewed September 23, 2016 No Chief Law Enforcement does not need to sign anything. All you are required to do is mail him a copy. The new forms will tell you at the bottom which form goes where. The CLEO form does not have "all" the same information that BATFFE gets. The CLEO form is slightly different. The CLEO in my neck of the woods doesn't even want them and has said on a number of occasions "what do I need these for"? Well, it's now the law so I just send them to him and what he does with his copy is his problem.

I would go to ThompsonBarrels.com They did a great job on my live fire, finned 1921 copy barrel.

I decided to get of one of the hard FBI cases for my SBR'd 1921 copy. They are a little pricy but sure are beautiful especially when loaded with a drum, the Thompson, & four 20 round mags.

I got the proper (made to Colt specs) ring sight for this barrel at the same place (ThompsonBarrels.com). I installed it "after" this picture was taken so you don't see it here. At 25 yards it is dead nuts accurate. POI is the same as POA. I have not shot it outside yet so I cannot attest to it's accuracy at any distances longer then 25 yards yet.

I gave up on trying to figure out what was a real "click" and what was not. Instead, based on what I'd read from others who've had the same problem, I count turns of the winding key. For the fully loaded L drum, I use 2 1/2 turns of the key or 1/2 turn per every ten rounds. (two sectors). MHO, YMMV, etc. This is absolutely correct. Kahr should stop printing the number of "clicks" on the back of the drum because in reality there are two different, distinct clicks that the drums make. There is a click you hear as you start to turn the key and a heavy "thunk" you hear at the 3, 6, 9, & 12 o'clock positions. The heavy thunk you hear is the click they are talking about. Ploughboy has it right. I give the key 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 turns and my drum works 100%. I did have a new drum years ago that would make the rounds nose dive and hang up on the lip of the drum as described in the original post. I just put a small grind stone in my dremmel and lowered that portion of the drum a little. It then worked 100% as well but I sold it to someone who just had to have it. The new Kahr drum I am using now has worked 100% right out of the wrapper.

Depending on where it is located and where the buyer is located you need to either pay $200 or $400 for the transfer tax. If it is shipping from the factory to your class III dealer or is shipping on a Form3 from an FFL to your class III dealer then you only pay one $200 transfer tax. However, if it is shipping from an individual and not on a Form3 then you have to pay a $200 transfer tax to your class III dealer and another $200 to transfer it to you. But if it is a face to face purchase then the single $200 transfer tax applies.

Got my tax stamp back a few weeks ago (6 months mailbox to mailbox) and picked up a new manufactured 10.5" barrel from Thompson Barrels. I had it made with radiused fins and no threads at the muzzle. I wanted a copy of a 1921 so all I have left to do is drill and pin the proper "ring sight" on, no Cutts Compensator. Got that from Thompson Barrels also. Next up is to find a reproduction of an FBI hard case. http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww297/LittleAce1/IMG_1402_zps2ggraul0.jpg http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/ww297/LittleAce1/IMG_1404_zpswbq20ol1.jpg

Definitely mail your Form in. I just received two Form1's in the mail a few weeks ago and it took exactly 6 months mailbox to mailbox. The forms i received before these two took exactly 5 months to get stamped. I now hear it takes a minimum of 7 months. I would not wait as the time to process and stamp is only getting longer.

Thanks for the feedback. I won't sweat it. Sounds like this is normal.

I got the old barrel off and will mount up the new 10.5" this weekend. I checked the fin diameter and the 1927 barrel is not made to original specs. The fins on my 10.5" (Colt specifications) barrel are smaller in diameter. I am thinking of having my now, spare 16" barrel turned down to the proper profile and having it cut down to 8.5" and the Cutts Compensator permanently attached so that it is 10.5" OAL. One of the reason I do not like the CC even on a proper 10.5" barrel is that it makes it look too long. This might be a cool alternative. Then I can switch them when I feel like it.

When I first got my 1927A1 the Ejector was tight and didn't move at all. I just noticed I can now take my fingernail and raise the Ejector about 1/32" and if you shake the upper it rattles a bit. Is this normal? Does't seem to be a problem yet but just checking to find out if this is normal.

My Stamp finally came in the mail (6 months mailbox to mailbox) to SBR my Kahr 1927A1. I purchased a new 10.5" barrel and ring sight from "Thompson Barrels" that is made to original Colt specs and am ready to do the barrel swap. My big question is when installing the new barrel do you guys use some sort of thread locker on the threads? Something like rockset, red locktite, blue locktite, etc? Second Question: How do you hold the ring sight in place while drilling for the cross pin? I was thinking of mounting the barrel, test firing to make sure everything works perfectly, then using stud and bearing mount (green locktite) on the front ring sight to hold it in place. Once the bearing mount sets up I would then drill for the cross pin. That way the ring sight would not move while drilling. I decided on using the ring sight instead of the Cutts Compensator as I hate that look. My TommyGun will look like a 1921 model. What do ya'll think???

Are you filing as an Individual or a Trust/Corp/LLC? It makes a difference as if you "are not" filing as an individual you only need to "notify" local law enforcement and therefore do not need to fill that section in because you are no getting CLEO sign off. I just got two more stamped Form1's back last week but they were submitted before 41f so I could be wrong........but I don't think so.

About 8 or 10 years ago I purchased the aluminum recovered 1927 with the intension of SBR'ing it. I shot it while my Form1 was being approved. After only 250 - 300 rounds the receivers stretched and the upper to lower fit became very sloppy. So bad that I had a ton of malfunctions. I had BATFE amend the registry to show it still a title 1 gun as I never purchased the 10.5" barrel for it. I later sold it for $250 more then what I paid so even with the loss of the tax stamp I still came out $50 ahead and the person that purchased it knew the loose upper to lower fit but wanted it anyway. Bottom line is I would not touch the aluminum 1927 again. That said I purchased an all steel 1927 to SBR it. My stamp came in a couple of weeks ago and I am having a 10.5" 1921 style barrel made from a company called Thompson Barrels. They make barrels to Colt specs in any style you want (finned, no fins, square fins, radius fins, etc). Thompsons were never very ergonomic and weighed a ton but that is what you put up with if you want a piece of history.

Since I really don't care about the collector value of a true TSMG mag and can't afford a FA Thompson to use them in, I modify the mags and not the mag catch. That way I can use both Thompson mags and the Semi Auto Ordnance mags, whichever I can get my hands on.

My tax stamp just came back so that I can SBR my 1927A1. I am going to buy full auto 10.5" barrel from Thompson Barrels and I know that they are new barrels made to government specs. The question is do they need to be head spaced. I have been told if they are a true full auto government spec they do not. Anyone know for sure?

Got my Original Oil Bottle from Northridge Internationl. MadDog http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/cool.gif

Still want to know if anyone has used them in the Lightweight Aluminum Karh 1927A-1C. MadDog http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif

Has anyone tried them in an "aluminum" receivered 27? The package says they have not been tested in aluminum receivers but does not say "don't do it". I talked to Doug Richardson and he thinks it should be fine as the "alloy used in modern Kahrs is plenty strong and should be able to handle them". Just thought I would ask here before trying them in my Lightweight 1927A-1C. MadDog http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/huh.gif

Got mine last Friday. This thing is a work of art. Maddog http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/tongue.gif

Talked to Doug a few days ago. He said the machining was done but he still had put the finish on them (parkerize or what ever finish he used, can't remember what he said) and they should ship soon. MadDog http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/cool.gif

Sending funds today for one 28 style Bolt Handle for my 27A1 along with a catalog. MadDog (aka: Dan Harrison)

Noticed the new round cocking knob on a 27A1 that my dealer just got in. I purchased mine from the same dealer three weeks ago and it has the Cheese Grater knob. The funny thing is that according to the serial number on the new gun mine was made or assembled "after" the 27A1 with the new knob. Kahr must have a bin full of receivers that they pull from so there is no order of assembly according to serial number. MadDog http://www.machinegunbooks.com/forums/invboard1_1_2/upload/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif