RichUrich

I did at one time have a 39 marked slabside magazine for MP40. Only one I ever saw.

There were a handful of late model MP40's that had a fixed firing pin and utilized a cut-down MG-34 (MG-42?) recoil spring. I verified one about 30 years ago on display. There is also mention of one in a biography of a WWII US infantry man who had one on the Siegfried line... he said it fired erratically, and faster than a "normal" MP40. Rich Urich

Where can I find about 20 (as new or excellent condition) WWII surplus Thompson magazines? Who has the best deals? Thanks Rich Urich

I have some rear site bases and leafs for sale... Rich Urich

Breaking MP40's Guys, I have been a Class 2 and collected MP40's since 1974. I have seen and built and repaired MANY MP40's. MP40's are my specialty. I have fired thousands and thousands of rounds through MP40's. I like MP40's. What I have seen as regards to repairs: 1. Do not assume that parts are inter-changeable. I have had MP40 bolts that worked perfectly in one weapon, that simply would not operate in another. RARE, yes, but I have seen it. 2. I have had plenty of extractors and firing pins break, or have had to replace them for customers whose did break. 3. Magazines are usually the problem if the MP40 doesn't feed / eject. Those magazine feed lips WILL wear out! Also, clean the inside of the magazines from dirt and apply a light coat of oil inside the mag. 4. When the barrel wears out, and they WILL wear out eventually, there will not be enough back pressure to operate the bolt recoil, and the MP40 will fire sluggishly. I doubt the original "life expectancy" of the MP40 barrel was 10,000 rounds. (Compare with similar documented expectancy of other WWII German MG's) 5. When the sear and/or sear contact area on the bolt base wear, and they WILL wear, the bolt will "run-away." 6. Not all MP40 WWII German magazines are interchangeable!! Occasionally you will find mags that will just be impossible to fit in smaller dimensioned mag wells. Who knows why? Spare parts needed: Spare bolt Spare extractors Spare magazines Spare barrel If you have a chance, try to watch some original WWII videos of MP40's in use. Note the rate of fire and how high the empty shell casing eject from the ejection port. Seldom do I see MP40's are the ranges with the same forceful ejection. Finally, consider VERY VERY carefully replacing the recoil springs with WOLF Springs. When removing the firing pin from the recoil assembly, remember it is under a lot of pressure!

115gr. vs. 124gr.? Some MP40's like one much better than the other for feeding and ejecting. At the last shoot, the MP40 we had ate all the 115gr Wolf ammo, but wouldn't reliably function with 124gr. Wolf. I have had MP40's that would not relaibly function with British SMG 9mm ammo that worked wonderfully in a Sterling or STEN. Just make sure the 9mm ammo is HOT HOT HOT. Rich Urich

At our last Machine Gun shoot, our 1928 (21/28 overstamp) had a broken lip on the bolt, and so would fire 1-2 rounds then jam. We found the "hardness" of the bolt to be rather "soft"!! Needless to say, we need to purchase some spare bolts, and extractors, and a nice set of wood furniture (why use the original furniture at MG shoots where it can get damaged?) Any suggestions as to where to purchase un-used parts? Also, where is best place to get 30-rd magazines? Rich Urich

Milled Barrel Nut? My bet is that at some time (after WWII) the parts kit (or at least the barrel nut) was part of a DEWATTED MP40. Sometimes, part of the DEWATTING proceedure involved welding the barrel nut to the receiver tube, so as to not be able to change the barrel (which also had been DEWATTED by welding/soldering a metal plug inside the bore). I have also seen the barrel welded to the barrel trunnion from the inside of the receiver to accomplish the same result. And I have seen the bolt welded to the receiver tube from the bottom, via the mag well opening.

At the Tulsa OK gunshow this past weekend RYTON ARMS (British importer) had a very nice selection of Thompson parts on his tables. I spied (3) M1 NICKLE Thompson bolts all in excellent condition. Price $90 each. I was under the impression that no nickle M1 bolts were ever made! We had a great conversation about parts kits, and how difficult it is to get any into the US. Reasons: 1. Rate of Exchange of Dollar to Euro 2. Germans are buying up lots of parts kits and weapons (to be demilled) for collectors 3. RUSSIAN collectors are buying up lots of parts kits and weapons (to be demilled)!!! 4. All new batches of kits coming into US must have barrels demilled. His M1 kits had barrels made by Numrich. His 1928 barrels are original. "Tony" was telling me about seeing all matching mint condition consecutive serial numbered Thompsons (1928 & M1) (Savage & Auto Ordnance) and having to torch cut the receivers! Some of these Thompsons are on his website: www.rytonarms.co.uk US phone number: (480) 970-8830

I'll take the bolt. Email me please.

All "true" Matching C & R MP40's in excellent original finish are selling at Dealer price $19,000 to $20,000. I was very lucky to have just bought two at those prices. Look guys... I have been collecting MG's since 1974... these items are never going to go down in price. They should be considered as investments. Sure you might find someone who is hard up for immediate cash and sell at a discount, and sure there may be times when everyone is tight fisted... but for those "advanced" collectors who know their field of collecting... they will "invest" for a quality piece. Rich Urich

Send photos of grip frame and misaligned grips. This may or may be the case. Rich Urich

Yes, it was common to see that safety strap for the MP38 and early MP40's. I all my years of collecting MP40's I have never seen one in the flesh... only in photos. Also, rare is a bnz40 stamped receiver! Rich Urich

You might be thinking of Reed Knight's collection. Many Hundreds of machine guns! Check Knight Armaments. Rich Urich

http://www.lerenfort.fsnet.co.uk/page25.html

with prices for MP40 kits starting at $2000 in average condition, an MP38 kit for $5000 is to be expected as "realistic". MP40 dummy guns (kits on aluminum rceiver) are going for $2900 Supply and demand.

I just finished watching a Korean War Movie (made in Korea with English Subtitles) called "TAE GUK GI - Brotherhood of War" that I rented at the local Blockbuster Video. There simply is no war movie that comes close... not Winter War...not Band of Brothers... whew... those Koreans can sure make a war movie! YOU GUYS GOT TO SEE IT. Lots and lots of MG's...1919's of various flavors...Grease Guns...PPSH41's...EXCELLENT special effects. (No MP40's though, but you can't have everything). Rich Urich

I am willing to bet the one on the right of the Stalingrad picture is using a K98 sling. While the one on the left is using an MP40 sling but the stud part of the sling is affixed at the sling ring instead of toward the rear which is MUCH easier to affix! I have spent too many hours looking at period photos of how slings were affixed. Rich Urich

The "correct" sling positioning is for the stud to be at the rear, and God yes, it is difficult to get that stud in the hole sometimes! But that is the way it was. Sometimes K98 slings were used instead of MP40 slings...when that was the case the whole 98k stud keeper was used! Not very neat though in my opinion. Soldiers in the field NEVER woould have had a choice of where the sling ring was positioned. That was a REAR AREA depot repair to replace the barrel assembly! The Germans were very Anal Obsessive about doing things according to the book. Finally, the advantage of the sling ring on the right side and slung UNDER the barrel was that it offered a stable platform for firing while in "mobile assault mode" Remember, MOST pictures taken of the period were staged, not actual combat scenes.

Some reasons why the sling ring was positoned on the right was: 1. When the MP40 was slung on the soldier, the bolt retracting knob was not digging into the soldier like it would be if it was slung on the left. 2. The sling is suposed to be slung UNDER the barrel chamber area in front of the mag housing! Of course, I have never seen a photo like this, but back in the 1970's I know a former WWII 12th SS man, who taught me a lot about the CORRECT way to do things (when re-enacting) on the MG34, MG40, 98K and MP's. He said, the re-enactors watched too many American movies and had learned "bad habits" from the American military that just were not correct from his experience. (Ever notice that the 98k's in almost all Germans on parade are on the LEFT shoulder?)

I am very interested in purchasing a Beretta 38 style SMG and am very interested in its variations. I am curious abolut yours. Could you post some photos? Rich Urich

Erb "matching" guns? Sure, with his set of stamps (including waffenamts) he will "force match" weapons. Look VERY closely to determine if an Erb weapon is "matching". As for stock wobble...there are a few things that can be done. 1. Best choice: Replace the worn stock parts with "as new" parts 2. if loose, epoxy or solder the stock pivot base to the trigger frame, but it would be better to buy new. 3. CAREFULLY "peen" or "squeeze in vice" the left side of the stock button detent area to make a tighter fit. I have seen many stocks "worked" like that.

First thing I would do is replace all the recoil springs with new springs from Adam Vacari. Next, I would get extra extractors. They get weak and break. How is your barrel bore? Make sure the lands are really nice...is it an original barrel? Some new made barrels can be finicky. And old shot out barrels may not develop the proper back pressure. As long as one good magazine fires smoothly through the weapon I would not consider replacing the ejector... but keep in mind that ejectors for MP40's were hand fitted. Charlie Erb is not an "armorer" he just assembles title II weapons, which are like race cars i.e. that they need tune-ups and maintenence from time to time. Always make sure your magazines are good...the MP40 magazine is the major weak point of the whole weapon system. These mags AND THEIR SPRINGS 9replace them with new ones!) do wear out. Finally. make sure your bolt and sear surfaces are nice and sharp. No round worn edges. I have built many MP40's over the years as a collector and Class II. Rich Urich

RETAIL Prices: MP-38 parts kit (mis-matched in vg condition) $2500 to $3500 MP-40 parts kit (mis-matched in vg condition) $1200 to $1800 MP-40 parts kit (matching in vg condition) $1600 to $2200 Rich Urich MP40 collector and holder of too many parts kits!

Part II And if by some miracle you think you "beat" them on a technicality...hahahahahaha Boy are you in for a surprise! You will have wished you payed the fine in full and would gladly pay it if given a second chance. The govt buracracies can be very very vengeful by auditing you to death. I have heard too many cases of this happening too!