tommyboy

https://machineguns.us/ is definitely a scam site. Although I’ve never ordered from them, I believe Appalachian Arms is legit.

Looking at this C&R Lanchester that looks pretty original, however I wasn’t certain about the blued finish. It has a nice patina and if it was reblued, it was done long ago. it’s manufactured by Boss and the serial number begins with H. Thoughts?

You can just use an adjustable wrench with leather or some other material inside the jaws to prevent metal on metal contact. The nut is not usually super tight.

Here’s another picture of a gun with a barrel nut that’s never been removed since original assembly.

Just completed three form 4’s in the last two months from an individual to a dealer and they were all 7-8 weeks pending to approval plus another 10-15 days to receive the paper copy in the mail.

Sometimes form 4 approvals can take longer with machine guns that have not transferred in many years. Reason being is ATF needs to go back to the original registration to be sure that things like manufacturer, model, barrel length and overall length are correct. In fact, it’s not uncommon for ATF to send a request for photographs of the gun’s serial number as well as a picture of the gun with a tape measure showing overall length and barrel length.

I’m fairly certain the “CS” is part of the primary serial number on the receiver while the stock, barrel and bolt are just marked with the numbers. My Beretta 38/42 has a four digit serial number with the letters “CK” above it. I’ve looked at many Beretta 38/42’s and they all seem to have four or less digits for the serial number and all begin with a two letter prefix starting with “C”. I’ve witnessed almost every letter combination from “CA” up through “CM”. If you think about it, they supposedly made approximately 200,000 guns and using just a four digit serial number would only take you up to 9999. You’d have to have a letter or combination of letters to designate the next 10,000 serial number block after the first 9999 guns were produced.

I believe the 20 rounders with the witness holes are the earlier type. The early 20 round mags also don’t have the circular “disc” brazed on the back of the feed lips to keep the lips from spreading apart when the mag is loaded. The mags with the folded over reinforced lips are the later 12 round types, the 20 rounders never received that enhancement.

Sent you a PM.

660 is the early manufacturer’s code for Steyr. The same code can be found on Steyr produced MP40’s and K98’s until the code was changed to “BNZ” around 1941.

Does anyone have any recent paper form 4 wait times for individual to individual or individual to SOT holder?

The WD40 Rust Remover Soak works good but note that it will also remove all of the bluing.

The receiver usually has the last two numbers of the year marked next to the letter code of the manufacturer of the receiver. These will be located underneath and in front of the magazine well. In the case of this Erma (AYF) gun, the manufacturer of the receiver was Merz Werk with a subcontractor code of “COS” and a “44” date.

Almost every Reising bolt I’ve seen in factory assembled guns shows grinding around the extractor screw for proper fit. The Reising bolt assembly was definitely hand fitted to a particular gun and can cause great headache when attempting to run a mismatched bolt in a particular gun. The fitment can range from working just fine, to basically not fitting at all without modifications. Below are pictures of four different bolts from factory guns that have their original bolt and extractor. You can see the grind marks on the top and bottom of the screws for proper fitment. You can also see how the factory staked the screw in place to secure it.

They’re good to go. They have a large selection of guns and are very knowledgeable. They also have a storefront in Pompano, Florida where everything can be viewed.

Yes, that’s it. Thank you for your help.

Does anyone know what gun this magazine fits? It’s definitely a double stack 9mm and holds 20 rounds. What’s strange is it doesn’t have a mag catch on any of the sides which leads me to believe it uses a bottom release of some sort. However, the bottom floor plate is curved. The only marking is the 20 on the back. Thanks!

Completely normal. Hopefully you’ll be lucky enough to get an approval back in less than a week.

Originally they were brazed but later guns were crimped to speed up production.

I’d go with another S&W 76 hands down. As you mentioned, prices continue to rise on them while M2 carbine conversion demand and prices seem somewhat stagnant. Plus the 76 is a much nicer shooter.

History Arms makes a decent reproduction. http://www.historyarms.com/rbar.html

The seller does state in the listing that it’s transferable but my guess it’s a scam which is why he’s asking for PayPal or a wire transfer. And because the item violates eBay’s listing policies, they’re not going to step in to help with any disputes. Caveat Emptor on this one for sure.

How long will this one last on EBay before the auction is pulled? Seller has zero feedback but don’t worry, I’m sure you have PayPal buyer’s protection if something goes wrong….😳 https://www.ebay.com/itm/315136226763?hash=item495f9535cb:g:HLgAAOSw8Eplvgao&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwCg8C2xjpMq3s%2Fy%2BvjDExwalVkqpneFImB3SO9qwy6aKV8kJwzmMS9k6lbj%2BdnUNlad56th94xJWEJOnYO5EQlFxY4iLJR0xYYMuv4rDjhdv1Wx8iHr%2FfVy3xlHq7AXDegG4zVJO2%2BQ6JHxOXRslqYie%2FEBWB9Vs3o%2FRPVT0e8%2FEQ3zcxZSAHVdk6z7IMB1Be4SU6skKX75aX0r2Objf01XENBiDdsys0AdizSdoQ17Jk8bVWRSIaGbuLPNPn5i96g%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4aescSuYw

TSMGguy means the front sling attach point has been swapped from the right side of the gun to the left side- something that can only take place by removing the barrel nut and barrel.

For some reason it looks like the finish on the receiver tube, barrel and front sight don’t quite match that of the grip frame or stock assembly which show more wear. Almost like the receiver and barrel were reblued in the past.