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imageaudio

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Everything posted by imageaudio

  1. I'm running an FBP bolt and recoil assy in my MP40. Used to work fine but now I'm experiencing some failure to eject issues which usually manifests as an empty casing inside the receiver that jams up the bolt system as it's attempting to load the next round. I changed ammo which was a little hotter and it improved the issue but did not solve the issue. Perhaps the extractor and ejector need replacing? Any thoughts of the workflow to identify the problem?
  2. Another point to consider is that if you buy from some of the dealers or the auction houses such as RIA, you'll also have to pay sales tax if your not purchasing as a resell item. Where I live in Texas, the sales tax is 8.25% which equates to an additional $2,475 on a $30,000 gun. I believe most transactions conducted between individuals are concluded without any sales tax?
  3. It would seem logical to assume that in addition to the easy of production benefits mentioned previously, there would be a corresponding benefit in the ease of maintenance. Specifically, not only because of the fewer parts associated with the M1A1 fixed firing pin bolt vs. the Blish locking system (or even the M1 bolt which retained a hammer, firing pin and spring), but the fixed firing pin M1A1 bolt just doesn't have any moving parts so no hammer or springs to wear out, break or be lost during field stripping or depot maintenance.
  4. Like Forest Gump so aptly stated “My mama always said, stupid is as stupid does!”
  5. Well, just purchased my copy of the "Gaging a Thompson" book and was blown away by the number of quality pictures included. I realize this topic is somewhat old but if you haven't purchased a copy yet, and have an interest in machining, tooling, and the quality control process, this is a great book to add to your library. Found my copy on Amazon. Thanks Tracie for such a great contribution to the Thompson collecting community.
  6. To expand upon Ron_Brocks post since youre new to Thompsons. The M1 was issued with an actuating firing pin in the bolt. A hammer actuates the firing pin only when the bolt has traveled 100% forward. The M1A1 was issued with a simple fixed firing pin on the front of the bolt that does not require a hammer. The safety concern is that if your chamber gets dirty (for a multitude of reasons) and an unfired cartridge becomes lodged without being completely insert into the chamber, it is possible for the M1A1 bolt to ignite the cartridge without it being fully seated in the chamber resulting in an out of battery ignition. Since the case is not supported by the chamber, an out of battery ignition results in the case being blown out in small pieces of brass shrapnel from the ejection port and possibly into the users face and eyes. This can result in either a bad day at the range or a trip to the emergency room depending upon your luck. You can run an M1 bolt in an M1A1 without any issues and I believe this is what most Thompson shooters do for safety purpose.
  7. Thanks for the heads up. I have reloaded (bullet but no powder or unfired primer) some aluminum cases as dummy rounds for test purposes for the very reason that the case is not Yellow to aid in quick identification. However in these days of high ammo costs, could be tempted to buy some cheap ammo and forget since my mind has been trained to think silver=safe Bob, a question about dummy rounds. Im using them in an M1 with a M1 bolt. I have left the expended primers in the casing so that the firing pin has something soft to hit. Would you recommend this or would you fill the primer pocket with silicone or a different Solution?
  8. TSMGguy, Thanks for your clarification. I by no means claim to be an expert. When I saw your reply, it got me thinking about where I had seen the information and I found it at this website: https://www.mp40.nl/index.php?page=magazines I've also attached a picture for reference. Guess I was mis-reading it. The website author states "You can easily recognise a A from a B type because the ribs of a afteribbed A type start right under the reinforcement." After reading a 2nd time, the quote is a little confusing. However, I believe english is not the authors native language which could be contributing to the confusing interpretation. Could you provide some clarification as to what you think the author meant? Or perhaps they are simply wrong?
  9. Thanks for the most informative posts Bob. I was lucky enough to have purchased a few of Doug Richardson's manuals shortly before Covid hit and was so thankful to have acquired them before his passing. Your posts are every bit as educational as his manuals and I always look forward to seeing what new information you are going to share with all us less knowledgable Thompson owners.
  10. I also read somewhere that you can also identify a modified mag by the ribs which do not extend under the reinforced upper portion of the magazine tube. Later model magazines which included the ribs as part of the original manufacturing process extend fully underneath the upper magazine tube reinforcer.
  11. Tom has helped me with 2 FOIA requests. Very helpful and much appreciated. I'm so thankful for these forums and the information available here. As well as the excellent books published by members.
  12. Thanks Gents. Turned out to be a simple answer after all . . . that is, if you know the right people to ask. To continue my NFA education . . . What would be the workflow if an individual owns the NFA item and they are not an SOT and it was out of state. Guessing they would need to transfer it to an SOT in their state (with $200 tax stamp) and wait for the approval, then the out of state SOT would ship to my state SOT tax free who would hold it until I was approved on my Form 4 with a 2nd tax stamp payment? Does that workflow change if the private owner and I are located in the same state? Guess we could eliminate the Form 3 SOT to SOT transfer process but everything else would be the same?
  13. Simple question (aaaahhhhh, I've already jinxed my post!) What is the workflow to transfer an NFA item classified as a Curio and Relic from an out of state FFL to me? I have an 03-collector of curio and relics license. Does the out of state FFL transfer to me on a Form 3 since I have the C&R? Or does it From 3 to my local FFL with SOT and then I wait months for the Form 4 approval? And just to make sure it gets complicated, here's the 2nd part of the question. If I hold an NFA item as an individual with a C&R license, what would be the workflow if I wanted to transfer the items into an LLC in which I am the managing member? Could I donate/sell the gun to the LLC and file a transfer Form 4 to the LLC entity and pay the additional tax stamp? Or is there more involved? Thanks in advance for members advise.
  14. The Wisdom offered on this forum never ceases to amaze and entertain me. Loved Jim's comment about friends who don't care for your equipment. Always important to have a laugh every now and then. Good news is my friends are careful with my guns. In this particular instance, I was working with a group of quality teenage boys and trying to give them a lifetime memory with a piece of history and thought, just in case someone scratches or dents the wood, why not run my parts bin lower? All had fun on the range day and of course, the Thompson was the highlight for everyone (as it should be!) It was the first time to run this lower and was just surprised how tight it was. Think I'll polish the shiny spots a little and live with the results. Perhaps next time, part of the Thompson day with the boys should be teaching them how to clean the gun too! Life and learn. Thanks all for your comments!
  15. I've got an early Savage M1 with matching upper and lower. I purchased a parts kit to protect the lower furniture from dings when I take it out to the range to allow friends to shoot. When I install the parts kit lower, it slides on easily until about the last 1 -1.5 inches which then becomes very tight. Too tight for me to separate to clean. (I need one person depressing the frame latch pin and pulling one direction while the other person pulls the other direction.) Gun runs fine with mismatching lower installed, just a booger to break apart. No burrs that I can find on the rails or channels, just a really tight fit. (original upper and lower fit just fine and easy to dis-assemble) I've thought about carefully polishing the last 1 inch of the inside channel on the lower ever so slightly to try to loosen the fit but something inside me just hates to take any metal away from a tight fitting gun. But of course, I don't want to need two persons to disassembly the gun. So of course, I'm putting it up on the post for suggestions. Any thoughts???
  16. Goodness, anyone see how many Thompsons are available at the next RIAC Premier auction? https://www.rockislandauction.com/catalog/82/class-iii/?keywords=thompson 19 by my count. I haven't examined any of the lots but seems like that's a fairly high number for one auction. Is somebody doing a little house cleaning???
  17. The Mag Feed Lip tool I purchased from Tiz worked great.
  18. I'm not an engineer so please make note of the source. I own a STEN MKII and it's bolt has a fixed firing pin similar to the M1A1 bolt. It is my understanding that part of the energy of the bolt slamming into the breech face of the barrel chamber is absorbed in the STEN firing cycle because of API (Advanced Primer Ignition). Basically, the cartridge is beginning the ignition process just as it is being fully seated which has the net effect of softening the inertia of the bolt slamming into the breech face of the barrel. Since the M1A1 bolt has a fixed firing pin, wouldn't it also experience API, which in this instance would act as an energy reducer compared to a 45ACP round igniting on a fully closed chamber such as occurs in the 1928 as well as the M1 bolt versions which use a hammer and firing pin? And consequently, couldn't this help in the reduction of stress from the bolt hitting the rear of the receiver if less energy is being transferred to the bolt during the moment of ignition?
  19. I recently acquired a de-milled British 2 inch paratrooper mortar. It has been de-milled according to ATF specs but I'd like to re-activate it as a legally owned destructive devise (AOW) and use it for demonstration purposes. Before I start the process, thought I would start a thread here for commentary. I'm open to all suggestions. I have 2 steps I'll need to accomplish. First is the ATF paperwork trail and the other is the actual re-activation process. I've posted pictures so you can see the current status of the mortar. Also, if I'm using terms incorrectly, (such as de-milled vs de-wat) someone please correct me. Since the current item is not an NFA registered device, I am assuming this will be considered a "new manufacture" even though it was previously manufactured during WW2? For the ATF paperwork trail, my thought is to submit a Form 1 (along with a $200 tax payment) requesting permission to the ATF and then after approval, accomplish the welding and milling locally. But if someone already knows how to do this, or knows of someone who can do it, please PM me. I’ll also need to submit a serial number. Any reason I can’t use the same serial number that is already on the device? It actually has 2 serial numbers, one on the base stem and the other on the trigger housing cover plate. Would it matter which one I used? Then regarding the re-activation. I'll need to weld a patch on the hole in the tube. Any considerations regarding pressures and metal stock? The practice rounds are launched using a 28 gauge shotshell with pyrodex. Essentially a blank shotshell. I've been told prior to welding, to fit a copper tube inside the mortar tube to help minimize the welding slag (and consequent clean up after welding). Any other suggestions or concerns anybody see? We will also need to drill out a spot weld placed over the firing pin channel. Don't see any issues with that but as always, any thoughts or suggestions? Lastly, if someone has experience in re-activating these mortar tubes, please contact me. I'd be more than happy to send this to someone if they have prior experience. Thanks in advance for commenting!
  20. The legal aspects of this can become very complex very quickly and I suppose be endlessly debated. That's why it's so helpful to hear from members who have already been through the process to see how it played out and if they would advise any changes. RoscoeTurner, I appreciated your comments about having all the paperwork in one place and someone who knows where it is. In my situation, I have all my Form 4's in one folder in a fireproof safe and then I have digital copies both on my computer as well as regularly backed up to a thumbdrive which goes in another fireproof safe. The thought being that if my computer is stolen, I'll have the thumbdrive, if the safe is stolen, I still have my computer, etc. My friend just loads to the cloud and it's probably easier that way. I just don't like having all my info floating around on the web. RoscoeTurner, I'm wondering if you would share how the process worked for the transfer of the items. (Not asking for any names, just how the system worked) Were the NFA items held in a trust, in a persons name such as those held in C&R's, held in a company, etc. And then what steps where required to conclude the transfer. Did someone have to apply for a transfer and new tax stamp, did a responsible person have to be added to an LLC, etc. And then, having helped someone through the process, did you learn anything that made you think, hmmmm, if I had to do it all over again . . ., what would you change about the way you are planning to pass along your NFA collectibles?
  21. Just located this information on missing Resting Bars (barrel protectors) on the excellent website: https://www.mp40.nl/ I'd credit the web author but don't actually see any individual identified on the site. Perhaps someone can add the proper citation?
  22. Folks, I hope I'm around for many years to come. However, life has slowed down enough lately that I'm getting around to putting some of my house in order. Part of that process is wanting to make sure my NFA items are passed along with a minimum of troubles for my surviving family members. I'm wondering if any of you could share what steps you have already taken to help provide for a smooth transfer of these regulated yet valuable items. I know everyone's situation is different. Some items are held by individuals and some by trusts, corporations, FFL's, etc. We all live in different states with different laws. And of course, lets not forget that families have conflicts, especially when considering individual items that may range from 15K-70K, etc. But lawyers are expensive too and don't always know how to deal with NFA items. In my family, I'm the one who has taken the time to learn the laws to obtain my NFA items but I can guarantee my wife doesn't have the slightest interest and is just hoping I take care of it all. I'm thinking the entire NFA community could benefit by a discussion of others experiences and what arrangements they have made for the passing along of our NFA items. I realize this is a personal and private issue and many may not want to participate. But it never hurts to ask. Anyone care to share their thoughts or legal plans on how to pass along our collections?
  23. Thanks for sharing your compilation. That's a lot of work and data gathering you have chosen to share with our community. That's what I appreciate so much about this forum and some of it's members! Will be kind of curious to see how the corona and the election will effect prices? (not trying to start a political commentary, just curious regarding prices and the economy, that all.) I bought my Thompson for my love of history, but I'm sure my wife hopes she can resell it after I'm gone. But my son want it. . . . hmmmmm? What to do?
  24. Thanks guys. hmmmm, never thought about a roll pin? Would be an easy solution but not original which is ultimately what I would like. But I'm not a gun smith and the roll pin would be an easy install. I don't want to mess this gun up. This gun is one of my top 3 in my collection. It is an original slab sided ERMA 1940 manufacture captured in Western Europe in 1944. I purchased this mp40 from Rock Island Auction but the original owner was a WW2 vet who gave it to his son who sold it in the auction. I have the entire paper trail from amnesty registration to me with full names, signatures, etc. Just the WW2 vet, his son, RIAC and then me. Question. The original pin is still in place so guessing it had a bakelite resting bar, or perhaps not one at all? It has a forced matched upper and lower with the correct Waffen Amt marks so the thought is that it went through some type of rebuild prior to being captured in 1944. This model was originally supposed to have an aluminum resting bar so thinking perhaps a bakelite bar was installed after the rebuild which ultimately cracked and fell out at some point as the pin which is still installed is flared like Black River Militaria mentioned above. I'm stuck wondering if I should leave the original pin in place and run it without a resting bar as this is part of the history? If I were to remove the pin, any way to save the pin or would I need to drill it out? And then during install, would I use a center punch aligned directly in the center of the pin to flare a new install? Or perhaps use a roll pin starter punch? Guessing I'm trying to flare rather than mushroom but I'm not that experienced. I'm posting pictures so future readers can see the pins we are discussing. Wish the bluing on the gun was in better shape too but I've kept it original as I obtained it.
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