hatrick

I was looking there but sadly DK is sold out.

Does anyone have a spare MP40 extractor they can part with? Thanks

I know it’s a total shot in the dark but looking for MP44 bolt #1002. Thanks

Can anyone explain the proper procedure for installing the thin barrel nut retaining washer and getting it properly aligned and getting the tabs peened to properly lock the barrel retaining nut. Is there any specific tightness the retaining nut should be tightened to or is basically as tight as possible (within reason)? Does it matter which way that thin washer faces? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I don't want to damage anything since all the numbers are matching. Very odd that it is missing to begin with. Thanks

Rekraps... that pin must really be in there tight if you can't knock it out. I wonder if it is tapered and needs to be removed only in one direction. I agree that it really isn't worth it unless that buffer spring really feels shot. I'd rather not remove an original pin for no sure reason. A new main recoil spring should be more than enough to keep the wear to a minimum. My recoil spring has a very slight kink/twist to it which is why I want to replace it. I'll probably order a spare butter spring just to have in case of an emergency since Wolff has them and it is only $4 Strange Ranger... I think the reason they went with a telescoping recoil assembly is that now that they were making stamped receivers they didn't want any risk of springs binding. The old milled receivers like the MP18, Lancaster and Beretta were more robust and conducive for a larger heavier spring. I certainly am not going to ever argue the overly complex German designs and it amazes me the simplicity and dependability of the MP18 and how that jumped to the MP40.

No worries at all. I’m so thankful for the time and help! Thanks so much for confirming things and the great pictures. I think I’ll just swap out the recoil spring and leave the buffer spring alone. A new Wolff recoil spring should be more than enough to help reduce wear and tear. Replacing the buffer spring would have been great but it isn’t worth messing with the original staked firing pin. Thanks again!

That’s encouraging to hear test you can replace both springs without taking the firing pin retaining pin out. I guess my buffer tube is just stuck in the firing pin retainer nut as it doesn’t want to come off. Any advise on getting if off?

I don't think my buffer spring needs replacement per say but I picked up a spare complete recoil assembly so I don't risk breaking the original matching numbered part and I figure on my spare I may as well replace the springs with Wolff springs since it will be my shooter recoil assembly and I may as well have brand new springs to reduce overall wear on the rest of the gun.

So in order to remove the buffer and replace the buffer spring you need to remove the pin holding the firing pin in place correct and remove the firing pin? Then the buffer spring tube (47) slides through the firing pin retaining nut (46) and the firing pin is reinstalled. Basically in the end the buffer spring assembly becomes a single unit with the firing pin and firing pin retainer nut. I really don't want to remove the firing pin if at all possible since it is staked in place.

I’ve stared at this diagram for a few days and just can’t figure out how parts 46 and 47 are connected. Odd diagram since it doesn’t seem to have recoil/buffer assembly parts in the correct order. The buffer if I’m not mistaken are parts 51 & 52 inside of part 47 which then attaches to 46.

Thanks for the help. I was able to take apart the three telescoping sections and remove the main recoil spring but the buffer assembly is still attached to the back of the firing pin assembly. It it really solid so I’m not sure how the buffer spring tube is attached to the back of the firing pin. Thanks

Do you have to remove the firing pin in order to replace the buffer spring? I really don’t want to remove that staked pin that holds the firing pin in place. Thanks

I picked up this MP44 stock ferrule and was wondering if was the original finish or if it has been refinished? Kind of a rarer one being a byf part. Thanks

I’m curious as well about the Numrich mags. I’m hoping the fit and function reliably. Anyone have any experience with them?

Well that’s encouraging but now to figure out where yours came from since yours work properly. Any chance you can post a few pictures?

Do any of the various repro MP44 mags out there work properly? Thanks

Has anyone ever seen this pattern of Lewis gun case. It’s approximately 104cm long. It may be the one referenced in this purchasing report.

Does anyone have a spare Lewis gun bipod. Never thought it could happen but the spring steel top band snapped where it is riveted to the lower frame. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I’ve used both types of barrels with the original wood tip blanks. Both worked great. PPU blanks are too weak and sound plan whimpy.

Is the Mk1 return spring the same as the outer Mk2 return spring and the only difference is they added a smaller second inner spring on the Mk2? I was assembling my Mk1 buttstock and a dual Mk2 spring set fits no problem and it seems a bit stiffer than the single Mk1 spring (which seems like a good thing). Any issues using a Mk2 spring set in a Mk1 buttstock? Thanks

Richard… that’s fantastic that you are going to reproduce these! Definitely put me down for a set when they are ready.

Does anyone have or know where I can get a Lewis gun barrel Jack? Removing the barrel from the aluminum cooling fins is such a bugger. Thanks, Eric

Does anyone have any of the 60’s wood tip .303 Bren blanks? I was told a lot of Vickers owners tried them back in the day but they were way too hot so I’m hoping to find some for my Bren. Thanks

Does anyone have any of the 60’s wood tip .303 Bren blanks? I was told a lot of Vickers owners tried them back in the day but they were way too hot so I’m hoping to find some for my Bren. Thanks

So I want to get one of the repro IO MP18 bolts but the only thing holding me back is that the charging handle is sold separately and needs to be press fit into the bolt body. Sadly they said they are so busy they can’t do it for me and I’m not sure really how I’d go about fitting it as I don’t really have any equipment for press fitting. Anyone have any ideas on how I might do it without buggering it up? Thanks