Rebel Rifle Ordnance LLC

I see. Ok thanks.

Mainly because I didn't know about! ok so this should replace the riveted bar somehow?

Just a "heads up", this topic has been covered a couple of times over the years. I'm not sure that the current Numrich reinforcement bands are original GI issue. They may be, but I am not positive. I remember a thread on the board about originals (sturdier construction and heavier gauge steel) vs the current reproduction type. Someone else on the Board will probably know the answer to this. RIght quality is suspect on the Numrich one but I couldn't find another one. I can post up pics after I install it and give an assessment. I may put some tape inside the band to keep the barrel from getting scratched up.

I just ordered the reinforcement band from Numrich as my rivet forearm bar is loose. I thought about taping the rivet with a punch to tighten it up and also the rivets holding the rear sight are loose. I saw where someone had listed originals on Ebay but I've been told any gun part received out of the country is a no go with ITAR unless it's imported properly. I couldn't find a current listing anway. Different topic but will a Lyman sight line up with the holes for the riveted rear sight with the large ears on an M1 Thompson? I would rather have a Lyman sight on it instead of the riveted one.

Thanks for the tip. Do you have a link to what you are referring to as in where to buy? Another option would be to put something between the barrel band to keep it from scratching the barrel. However, I'm more utilitarian than worried about scratches. If it was good enough for WWII I say roll with it.

Thank you full auto 45 and TSMGguy!

Hi, I'm looking for a Thompson M1 foregrip metal band. If you know where I can find one please let me know. Thanks.

I'm on the hunt for an M1 foregrip metal band for my Thompson. The metal riveted bar is loose. Anyone have one they could sell me? Thanks.

In my experience with several BAR's I've owned over the years, they will operate even if the barrel is loose and headspace isn't correct. I wouldn't personally shoot a transferable machine gun with a loose barrel but you may could find some shims and / or use some high temp loctite.

You're in good hands. He refinished a Colt BAR for me once and it was outstanding.

Nate, based on your pic of your barrel it appears that hand tightening the barrel puts it past the alignment mark. If that's the case, this is an easy fix as you could put a shim between the shoulder of the barrel and receiver to get it tight onto the receiver. As far as the buffer tube, the one that screws into the receiver should be tight enough not to come off by hand. I believe they were staked but on a $40K gun, I'd just use red lock tight and periodically keep an eye on it.

Nate it appears you have an original sear which is as scarce as unicorn teeth. Your rear sight is an A1 or A2 model so if you wanted to correct yours to original M1918 you'd need to find one like this.

Hey Nate. The first question to determine is if your barrel was tightened in the receiver, would it be out of alignment? On my Colt and NESA, there were dash alignment marks to indicate where the barrel should be tightened in the receiver. I don't see any on my Winchester. However, the notch in the bottom of the barrel should be perfectly aligned in the center of the receiver. If you can tighten the barrel by hand and it's centered, then you either have a replacement barrel or God forbid your receiver is cracked. If I had to guess, I'd say you probably have a replacement barrel. These guns have had parts switched and swapped for 102 years! Even if your barrel has correct proofs to match your gun, it could still be a replacement. If your barrel is close to being in perfect alignment just by hand, your going to have to either get if fixed according to the method Jim referenced or just replace the barrel. Before you go through the trouble of fixing your barrel, gauge it. If the Muzzle or Throat erosion is more than 50 to 75% of what it should be, I'd replace the barrel. The 50 to 75% is going to be a personal call. Yeah it will shoot with the throat or muzzle being a 7 or 8 on the throat gauge but if you are like me, I can't rest until it's new or like new. Those barrel wrenches are unicorn teeth. I've never seen one for sale. I do have a barrel vice I modified to fit the BAR barrel to install a barrel. I could let you borrow it if you wanted to use it. Working on the BAR is not rocket science but it is a butt puckering experience when you are dealing with a $40K transferable. Also, I notice your stock is cracked. That's 100% going to happen with every original M1918 bar stock. The walls or what I'd say are a bit thicker than card stock paper. If Browning had a design flaw, this may have been the only one on the BAR. Simple fix, get a wood craftsman to repair the stock. However, that's just the one I'd keep for display. Buy a new made stock to shoot on it.

True enough, I have that book as well. The cause of mine was actually the sear itself. The sear I had in was NOS but must have been out of spec or made on a Friday late in the war. Put a different sear in and the problem was solved.

Turns out the issue was a weak / kinked main spring. Replaced it and it runs flawlessly. The saga on this gun continues. I sold it to a very happy and satisfied customer but his wife wasn't so happy. I'm now in possession of S/N 823 once again and it's available for sale. I'd love to keep it but I just need to continue to thin the heard.

Hi Junglewalk. I have read your response several times and disassembled my trigger group to inspect the trip. My pin is solid and hasn't walked out. I also have another MG34 trigger group. Both trigger groups won't work on one but will on the other so I'm thinking it may be a timing issue where the bolt is being short stroked. However, I'm not opposed to the fact that it could still be the trigger groups just not working in one of the MG's. I'd like to get this book. How do I find John Baum?

Hi all. I have two MG34 premay dealer samples. The most recent one I've acquired had an ejection problem which I sorted by installing a new ejector plate as the one on it was heavily worn. It's running great now, but a little too great! I can't figure out why I'm getting runaways on it. Function test works fine. I've changed out bolts, put a new sear, sear spring and sear lifter. I've disassembled and inspected all trigger components and even tried a completely different trigger assembly. I've tried a new main spring and two different others that were lesser in length but still within spec. I'm thinking based on what little I could find from searching here that the timing may be off. I have a long, long as in the longest recuperator spring I have in right now. I have others of varying lengths that I may try next but I just can't wrap my brain around how timing could cause it to run away because the bolt still has to come back over the sear unless it's short stroking which may be the case. Please chime in with thoughts or suggestions. Thanks in advance.

Hi all. I need some advice. I sold my 3 digit Urich mentioned in this thread. I had ran a couple mags through it flawlessly. The buyer's FFL received it yesterday. He stated that it will run if a magazine is downloaded to about 15 rounds on the 30 rnd mag and on the 20 round about 10 rounds. With a fully loaded mag, the bolt pushes a round out of the magazine but at an angle and the bolt stops. I find it odd that both magazines would be bad. He told me he ran four different makes of ammo through it. When I shot this gun, I can't really recall if I shot it with a fully loaded mag or not and only ran a couple mags through it. Could the failure to push a round into the chamber be caused by a weak mainspring? I did disassemble the gun prior to shipping with the upper and lower separated. Anyone have any suggestions on what could cause it to not run with a fully loaded magazine? Thanks in advance.

Interesting. Nothing that couldn't be fixed with shortening the Lyman sight up a bit. I'll have to look around to see what those sights are going for. Anyone have a source in mind? Apex has some parts and Numrich has some as well but not a complete one.

I'm curious if a lyman sight would fit on the M1 if the screws that have the heads removed are removed. I traded my PMDS 1928 for this same gun so now I don't have a lyman sight to compare it with, lol. The fixed sight is horribly off high and right.

I'm going to be listing mine for sale whenever I find the time to do so. It's excellent, near mint condition. S/N 823 as discussed previously and in this very thread.

After a quick Google search, I stumbled upon this thread. I'm the current owner of the Urich Thompson S/N 823 and am glad to have this information. Thanks.

I have about 8 to 10 brand new 30 round stick mags most still in the original wrapping paper. I also have a few extended charging handles that I had custom made for the M6. Sadly, I no longer have my M6 so these are available. My email is sales@rebelrifle.com. Thanks.

OOW has new gas pistons. I replaced all mine on my BAR's. They aren't too bad, like $75 or so a piece I think.

I don't know but I wouldn't take any more material off. Setting the headspace is done by using different combinations of bolt and bolt links. If you are having problems with the pin going into the bolt that's another issue not related to head space. You may have a Swedish BAR and those bolts are not interchangeable. Somin ain't right and it's got to be a combination of parts being used most likely Swedish parts.