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WCG

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Everything posted by WCG

  1. Thanks so much for posting the photos, That confirms what I thought, the spring supplied is not correct, it's wound the wrong way. the odd squared-off leg would be on the left not the right if installed like yours. Yours looks like the squared-off leg goes down on the right, then along the top and through the aperture, and the short leg is pushing up on the pawl. I bet if the spring was out it would be both legs pointing in opposite directions from the coil, not parallel like the one I have been supplied. Anybody got the correct one?
  2. Hi ReKraps, that would be great, many thanks
  3. Hi Guys, My M3 had no retracting pawl spring when I got it. but I managed to get a couple of them after many months. Problem is, I'm not sure how it fits. I'll try to describe it... Assuming the retracting pawl is supposed to be sprung up against the underside of the bolt, then you would expect the spring to be flat when unloaded, and wound in a more acute angle when tensioned. But the new ones have the legs of the spring side by side, which naturally makes it close together like jaws, so if fitted like that the pawl would be sprung down. Has anyone got a photograph of the spring fitted correctly in place?
  4. Same thing in Europe, most stuff that's not licensed is super expensive. Few years back I bought an MP44 and the magazines were $200 each, Mag pouch $1500. Now the same magazines are north of $400 and the pouches are $3000. Parts are also getting expensive, why anybody wants to buy STG44 recoil springs, or used Thompson stocks soaked in Cosmoline??? go figure! Bayonets and all the sharp stabby stuff is insanely expensive. The problem we have here is that the de-activation market is so hungry it is pushing the gun prices out of our reach. As dealers we are still able to buy and import MGs and all kinds of ordnance, but the sale market is mostly for De-activation. Almost all the WW2 MGs have been cut up, so what's left is going up fast. For example 5 years ago I was buying crated new Thompson 1928A1 or M1 for $250, now they are $1500-$2500, STG44 were $1500, now $7000 to $9000. MP40 were $500 now $3000. I know those prices seem stupidly low to you guys in the US, but with no limits on the importation/ registration and little civilian ownership, the sale market has been more limited than supply, but that's changing and we are just running out of the older guns. My quest is to keep at least two of everything I can find, run them regularly and pass them to my kids
  5. Yes I'm the equivalent of a Class 3 dealer here in the UK, so the numbers of guns available are not limited by the NFA register. There are very few of us that have licenses in Europe, but that means the marketplace is small, and the values are very much different. The main market is for them to be De-Wat, which is sad. It would make you weep to see what MGs are valued at outside the USA.
  6. Another odd thing I noticed, on maybe 12 of the 17 guns I had to choose from was that the front of the ejection port is cut further forward than the cover. There is about a 1/4" gap at the front. Any Idea why?
  7. Hi Gents, I've just bought an M3 "Grease Gun", and wondered if anybody could date it for me? Serial Number 185211. Also, the rear sight appears to be the later style fitted to the A1, was this a gradual change over before the A1, or a retrofit?
  8. That sounds possible. They look like Weimar eagles Cannot find any records of Haenel cannons of the period, but maybe sub-contracted parts? For scale here is another photo
  9. Hi Guys, In a pile of spare parts I was given recently was a linkage, made by Haenel, and of really nice quality and finish. Does anybody have any Idea what it could be from?
  10. Hi Guys, I tend to shoot most of the guns in my collection, and with all the handguns and rifles I normally replace all the springs as most are 80+ years old and of unknown health. When it comes to SMGs it's not as easy as just ordering from Wolff. I have two MP40s and an MP44. I have managed to get NOS recoil springs for the MP44 out of Germany, but cannot find any magazine springs, which are quite critical I've not been able to find any new springs at all for the MP40s. Is there a source for new springs out there? or is there a specification that I could get them wound to? Cheers
  11. MMM, not available in the UK, but it looks like there are equivalents.
  12. Thanks for the advice. I will have to make a lever-style belt loader, similar to the .50 BMG and .30 BMG ones I have, but a real one would be nice. Loading for my MG34 and MG42 on the original machine is such a joy in comparison! Silly question, what is Paste wax?
  13. Hi, I wonder if anybody has had any success in loosening or stretching Vickers belts that have shrunk? I do not have a loading tool, so I have to hand load each belt, and having belts that are too tight makes the round position inconsistent. My guns don't tolerate rounds that are not fully seated. Belts are British manufactured, WW2, and a mix of brass tabbed and disposable. I've been told that soaking them in a light oil might work Any suggestions welcome
  14. Hi guys, My 1919s have two completely different designs of Back Plate, My Saginaw has a cast one with a one piece pistol grip, the Buffalo has an assembled one from multiple parts with removable pistol grip panels. Can anyone explain the different types, and their vintage or manufacturer? Cheers
  15. Fitted the cam, perfectly functional, thanks for the help
  16. Hi, The two 1919A4s that I have were ex-film guns and had BFAs in the front of the bearing. They were tapped out to 16mm (5/8") thread and the BFA put in from the inside. The centre of that thread is only about .555" diameter, so much smaller than the .718" I see quoted. With modern commercial 30-06 will I be over boosting ? If so what are the tell-tale signs? I don't like to remove metal unless it's really necessary, so I'm resisting boring out to .718". Any advice welcome
  17. Ssjtristan that's exactly what I needed.I'd worked up a drawing from the good gun I have, but having the original is great. three hours later I have a cam plate and a pair of rivets, happy days!
  18. Hi Billy, If anybody out there would do that it would be great, but first I need to find one. Alternatively, are there any drawings available? For Thompson parts one of the Forum members has uploaded copies, do they exist for the 1919?
  19. Hi, I am in the UK. I am a gunsmith and the equivalent of a Class III Manufacturer / Dealer. Oddly I cannot get onto Apex's site as it appears to be prohibited?
  20. Thanks guys, I knew it was missing when I bought it. Both guns are fully original GM Saginaw production, not put together from parts kits. They were being used as film guns firing blanks, and the rivets let go. The cam plate probably fell out the bottom on set and nobody picked it up. I'll take a look at the links and get somebody over there in the US to buy the parts, as most of those dealers don't even respond if you are an export customer. Many thanks I'm sure I'll have more questions once I have them up and running live again!
  21. Hi Guys, I have just purchased two 1919A4 machine guns, but one has a problem. It is missing the cam plate for the extractor. From the TM I believe this to be called a Left Rear Cam #6017469. Any Idea where I can buy one, and the correct rivets for it? Or are there any drawings out there for me to make one from? I could probably copy the good one, but getting it accurately measured and rivets positioned is not as easy as I'd hoped. Any help welcome, Cheers
  22. Hi Bob, I used a standard "mild" steel as we would call it over here, basically a low carbon steel. I made them 0.265" long as per drawing, which leaves very little protruding, but I guess that's the way it should be? Can they be fitted from the top? as it would ensure a cleaner look, Some of the M1A1s I've had seemed to be riveted like that as the inside looks rough. Cheers
  23. Hi Guys, I've made some rear sight rivets to the drawing, and I have a couple of questions. Firstly, do they need some kind of heat treatment to soften them? Secondly, what is the best method of fitting the rivets? Any advice welcome
  24. Hi Guys, I mailed the NFC curator, and sent him a copy of the document, we'll see what he says, but that mark looks exactly right and I agree that it doesn't look like any Dutch mark I've seen. Of the batch that came in, AO-61843 was a 1928, S-350590 was a 1928A1, and neither had the Crown-W on them, all the rest were M1 and M1A1 in pretty crappy condition. There are another 150 to be collected soon, coming from Germany but probably out of eastern Europe originally. I'll keep looking. I bought a copy of Great Britain the Tommy Gun Story, and also American Thunder, but surprisingly neither seems to have a comprehensive serial number list. Does one exist? Cheers Richard
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